Walmart Epoxy? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-13-2016, 05:06 PM   #15
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Name: Steve Robison
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I've used PC 11 for small holes, 1/4" or smaller with good results. It's sticky, unlike a putty. I would not use PC 11 for a large hole. Bondo is one solution. A trip to a boat place like West Marine might bring better ideas. When I needed to fiberglass a leaking belly band, I got good advice there. Raz
I did call the boat store but they want $40 for the smallest can of West Marine Epoxy. It's a little too expensive for me since I'm just patching one large hole. I did pick up 3m polyester resin which I will use since it was only $14. To fill the hole I will probably just use bondo.
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Old 04-14-2016, 12:44 AM   #16
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On the large vent you need to use matte cloth, just bondo will not hold. The PO of my Boler "patched" the original 3 way fridge vents, the oven vent and several other smaller opening using Bondo only then painted over it unsuspecting to us when we purchased it. While getting ready to do the reno of the inside I put a little weight on the fridge vent patch and the whole thing popped right out. All the others did the same upon further examination. I re did all his patches with fiberglass matte and Bondo resin and they are now solid as the original fiberglass shell except mine are thicker from doing both the inside and outside. Filler is great for filling voids after fiberglassing but I am not a huge fan of the standard Bondo brand filler, but the resin is great stuff. For the next filler work I do I will use the Bondo glass or Bondo hair fillers and see how they perform. My issue with the standard one is I could never get consistent drying of the filler and it would gum up my sander pads. PC-11 too is good stuff for bonding where you cant or don't want to use fiberglass. I used it to bond the seal of my cabinet inside the door to the contour of the body/door frame...very good stuff and easy to work with. Used it to bond a riser to the roof and it was so strong I had to cut the riser off (I covered the rest of the riser with Bondo filler which delaminated from the wood).
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Old 04-14-2016, 12:53 AM   #17
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I recommend reading Fiberglass Dave's thread located here You Can Repair Fiberglass

As far as the support I would use something more solid like a piece of wood, or maybe corrugated plastic if it needs a curve. Aluminum or tin would work well too. Screw it in to the body and after the repair remove the screws and fill the holes. I read about the beveling of the edges somewhere but I did not do that, I sanded down into the gel coat, made my patch, filled it in, then sanded, sanded, sanded and sanded until smooth, did I forget to mention sanding? Start with a 60 or 80 grit to get the contour then work your way up to around 300 or 400 grit. When you prime it any imperfections will show up and you can touch those up then apply more primer then top coat. Any by all means wear a good quality mask made for sanding and fiberglass particulates, your lungs will thank you
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:16 AM   #18
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I'm definitely using a mat not just bondo over the hole. What I think I'm going to do is cut out a piece of cardboard in the shape of the hole, put wax paper over it and put that onto another bigger piece of cardboard. Then I'll tape this to the exterior of the scamp creating sort of a "plug" for the vent. This will allow me to lay fiberglass down in the back without it bowing forward.

Then I will cut a few pieces of mat the shape of the hole and lay that into the hole from the outside until it's of a decent thickness where I won't have to use much filler.

As for the comment about better alternatives to bondo the only reason I mentioned it was because I was under the impression that it's easier to paint? But if kitty hair or the bondo glass stuff paints just as good without having to add gel coat I will get that instead.
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Old 04-14-2016, 07:47 AM   #19
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Sounds good to me. I can't tell you on the other products though, I have not tried those yet.
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:55 AM   #20
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I would not use waxed paper. Smooth plastic works well. Some plastic package sealing tape would work. The wax could leave residue that would be hard to remove.
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Old 04-14-2016, 10:45 AM   #21
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I would not use waxed paper. Smooth plastic works well. Some plastic package sealing tape would work. The wax could leave residue that would be hard to remove.
Ok I will use the packaging tape instead, thanks.
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Old 04-14-2016, 05:05 PM   #22
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I would not use waxed paper. Smooth plastic works well. Some plastic package sealing tape would work. The wax could leave residue that would be hard to remove.
I haven't read all the replies but I once built a cedar strip dingy and covered it with fiberglass inside and out.
The finish, top coat, of epoxy resin contains wax to keep out the air so the resin will cure.
Otherwise it will stay tacky
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Old 04-14-2016, 05:53 PM   #23
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I haven't read all the replies but I once built a cedar strip dingy and covered it with fiberglass inside and out.
The finish, top coat, of epoxy resin contains wax to keep out the air so the resin will cure.
Otherwise it will stay tacky
Did you paint over the resin? I've seen cedar canoes with a resin finish but the resin was the final finish coat. I've used the package tape method several times and it works well. Wax paper might work but I'm not sure. I said it could leave a residue, not would leave a residue.
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Old 04-14-2016, 06:03 PM   #24
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No paint over the resin.

I suspect what Wally world sells contains the wax because it does cure properly.

I did some body work using it on a rusty jeep and painted over it with no problems
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Old 04-14-2016, 08:51 PM   #25
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Today I only got to the minor stuff like fiberglassing over screw holes from the back. I only used one piece of mat per hole, would that be sufficient even if I were to drill through it to install new taillights and running lights? The stuff is hard as a rock, I think it will hold up to a drilling without delamination but this is my first time so id rather make sure.
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Old 04-15-2016, 04:08 PM   #26
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How long does pc-11 usually take to cure? I patched some holes with it at around 8pm and it's still not dry at 5pm the next day.
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:14 PM   #27
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How long does pc-11 usually take to cure? I patched some holes with it at around 8pm and it's still not dry at 5pm the next day.
It's been a while but I recall being able to chisel it with a putty knife in several hours and sanding it in 24 hours. 50-50 mix? Is it cold?
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:40 PM   #28
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It's been a while but I recall being able to chisel it with a putty knife in several hours and sanding it in 24 hours. 50-50 mix? Is it cold?
50-50 mix, when I applied it the outside temp was around 40-50 but the day after application it was about 70. The putty was hard, I needed a razor blade to scrape some off but it just wasn't rock hard. Pushing on it with my finger nail would leave an indentation.

I'm doing it in my garage so it's a bit colder in there, I'll check again tomorrow hopefully it will have cured.
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