want to add more Trillium cupboards - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-19-2012, 06:13 PM   #15
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Name: Diane
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WOW! I can see the usefulnes for all our trailers! Great job! Let us know how it holds up with weight in it please... Looks professional and light weight. NICE
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Old 09-19-2012, 06:15 PM   #16
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Would a bullet catch be what you were after? If so Lee Valley will have them. Great post. Looking forward to the shower. Raz
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:45 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
Would a bullet catch be what you were after? If so Lee Valley will have them. Great post. Looking forward to the shower. Raz
No, I donít think that is it, but I appreciate your willingness to help solve the problem. I took a picture of the thing, attached. The way it works is that this thing is installed in each of the left and right inner doors. The cylinder sticks out and blocks the outer door from sliding past it. You can push the button in (it is spring loaded) when you want to slide the outer door past it. The left and right outer doors are on the same track and so meet in the middle. The left and right inner (back) doors are on the inner track, and these gizmos prevent all the doors from sliding while travelling. You can just barely see them in the installed picture of the new rear cupboard.

I would be interested in knowing what they are called.

Rick G.
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Old 09-19-2012, 08:52 PM   #18
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I installed the original cupboard in the rear of the trailer tonight. It turned out to be fairly easy, because it fit relatively well above the rear and side windows and I could just screw it into the existing trailer frame supports that happened to be in the right place. I had to cut about ľ inch off one end to get it to fit, and a similar amount off one of the doors, but otherwise it just screwed on. I am going to also make a shelf extending from the cupboard on the passenger side up to the closet, but that will be in a few days as other parts of life are intruding.

Now we have much more storage than we used to and the rear storage will be handy for bedding and towels and such that we donít use every day. We will probably put light foods (bread etc.) in the front cupboard, at least to start with.

Lots of fun.
Rick G
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:54 PM   #19
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I'd be interested in seeing pics of your front dinette as I am just starting into a reno on a Trillium Jubilee 15' that I want to put a front dinette into.

I have attached a pic of a way that I have done sliders several times in case it might be of any interest to you. I make my own wooden track and then I can custom size it's width, length, colour etc to whatever I want.

This particular one is made for the 1/4" MDF sliders that are part of my computer cabinet. As with the aluminum tracks, this upper track is a little deeper in order to allow slipping the door up into it just enough to allow it to clear the bottom track and then drop into place in the bottom track.

If you want to use 1/8" ply, as I intend to when I do this in my trailer, then the common carbide tipped blade in a table saw will cut a groove, one pass, that is will accommodate the slider.

Peter
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:06 AM   #20
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Peter,

Take a look at:
building new front upper cupboards

and:
building the shower - Yay!
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:58 PM   #21
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As a final update on this project, I installed a long open shelf in the new rear cupboards, similar to the side shelf at the front and made the same way. Pictures attached. I made the mistake of thinking that the trailer had square dimensions, but quickly learned (again!) that nothing in these trailers is predictable or square. The corners of the side shelf had to be adjusted for the non-linear shape of the trailer, and I had to beat one corner in a bit to accommodate the smoke alarm. I couldnít just move the smoke alarm because the previous owner had cut a big hole for a stereo speaker in that spot and the smoke alarm just barely covers that up.

Anyway, to finish off the shelf saga, I have ordered woodgrain DYMO label tape to try to simulate the woodgrain tape in the original, and also a soft plastic table corner to install on the front shelf corner where my head will inevitably hit it. I also installed a new light in the rear shelf, mainly becasue the holes were already there from when it was a front shelf and we can always use more lights.

I found that when travelling, the front shelf doors had a tendency to slide open a bit, which is why the originals had those push button thingys to lock them. So, I installed small momentary contact pushbuttons switches in the two wide (inner track) doors to duplicate that function. They work the same way, but are smaller and less pressure. They seem to be working very well.

So, I am still waiting to see whether the VHB tape holds the shelf up to the roof or not. I will probably give it over the winter, unless it actually falls off, which it has not done yet. Other than these last few bits, I am very happy with the results.

Later,
Rick G
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Old 09-28-2012, 01:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peatle View Post
I have attached a pic of a way that I have done sliders several times in case it might be of any interest to you. I make my own wooden track and then I can custom size it's width, length, colour etc to whatever I want.

This particular one is made for the 1/4" MDF sliders that are part of my computer cabinet. As with the aluminum tracks, this upper track is a little deeper in order to allow slipping the door up into it just enough to allow it to clear the bottom track and then drop into place in the bottom track.

Peter
I didn't see your picture, but I was seriously thinking about making wooden sliding tracks when I was unable to find aluminum ones. However, I did find aluminum ones and liked that look, so I went with that, as is posted in those other threads mentioned above. Thanks for the idea.

Rick G
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Old 09-30-2012, 01:54 AM   #23
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Yes Rick ..... I see that the photo didn't make it. I'm having a little trouble attaching photos as this one sat for many minutes telling me it was loading.I thought that I must be missing something and clicked on 'submit reply'.

There doesn't seem to be any notification that the file has attached to the post .... an anybody offer advice ?

I'll try again with th same photo. I guess it's a little redundant now but just in case it might be of any interest to someone else.

.......never mind ! - I see the list of current attachments now. I didn't get that before.

Peter
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Old 09-02-2016, 05:35 PM   #24
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Nice work Rick,

I keep coming back to this thread to see the progress. I realize the difficulty is in finding the right extrusions. I picked up a rear set that was supposed to be for a 4500 to put in mine. The length of some of the pieces tells me it probably came out of a 1300, so I will probably be needing some extrusion components.

I found a site through the references in FGRV that might help find some of those hard to find extrusions. LK Technologies About Us

I'm posting that here because they say they "are always happy to share our rich knowledge and experience with you".

You never know, but I have a feeling one day I or someone else may need that link.
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:42 PM   #25
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Hi Rick G! I am wondering how much you would charge to build me a full length front and rear cupboard for our 1973 Trillium 1300 our of baltic birch. We live in Port Alberni on Vanc Island. Please e-mail me via abandc2@shaw.ca. Very nice work you did but I am not so talented. Thanks.
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Old 09-30-2016, 11:34 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by jagbor View Post
Hi Rick G! I am wondering how much you would charge to build me a full length front and rear cupboard for our 1973 Trillium 1300 our of baltic birch. We live in Port Alberni on Vanc Island. Please e-mail me via abandc2@shaw.ca. Very nice work you did but I am not so talented. Thanks.
Thanks for your kind thoughts, but I am not really into doing renos for profit. I am really just trying to make our trailer a bit more functional. I would encourage you to take a stab at it yourselves. It is surprising what you can do with patience and planning.

I have been looking at this thread today for the first time in a few years. At the moment we are camping in Hurricane, Utah, where we are on our annual ball tournament trip until mid October.

As an update, the shelf system is generally working very well. I was feeling insecure about the front upper corner attachment with just VHB tape, even though it held well, so a couple of years ago I put one short sheet metal screw into the roof, which didn't penetrate the roof all the way through. This has worked perfectly so I no longer think about it. Having the shower and the "in-house" toilet system as part of the front dinette is fantastic, but that is another thread elsewhere.

in addition, the two shelves with sliding doors that I made, one at the front and one smaller one at the rear side over the bed, both sag slightly in the middle because the lower aluminum extrusion is not stiff enough to hold it up perfectly. This is where the original weirdly shaped extrusion works much better. It is barely visible and not a problem for the doors functioning, but it means that I have to be careful about how much load I put in those cupboards so that I don't make the sag worse. I plan to add an upright from the bottom rail to an "L" shaped metal bracket that I will fiberglass onto the roof for each of those cupboards to stiffen them up. This will support the bottom rail while leaving the top rail flexible so that the doors can still be inserted/removed.

Anyway, I would still like to find those bottom rail extrusions as described in the other post, but I have mostly given up after several unsuccessful hours looking on the web. All in all it has worked very well, and the extra storage space has been well worth the effort that went into.

Regards,
Rick G
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