Where to store the stinky slinky in a Parkliner? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-07-2015, 09:14 AM   #29
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Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
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Originally Posted by WaltP View Post
My Parkliner was an early one with the batteries inside so no battery box. I guess a frame mount won't work for you. Too bad, but at least you have the storage space. That was one of the things I didn't like about the Parkliner.
Two big, necessary changes to the Parkliner in my mind were batteries on the tongue and roof mounted AC. Together they take care of the lack of storage I found on mine.

Walt

P.S. Sorry about the duplicated posts aboved. A glitch on my computer.
Our Parkliner is an early one too Walt, we think #006. At great expense to us last year, our Parkliner went back to the factory for their new battery box. It's sleek and all, but hard to access without removing the propane tanks. We now have that storage space inside.

I wish Parkliner would offer details on their new roof mount AC, but that sort of customer support is not their bag. It would make so much more sense to have AC on the roof!

The other thing that is annoying is that there are no outside access compartments like we had on our sticky of the same size years ago. That is why I wanted an outside storage space on or attached to the trailer for the stinky slinky. The fence post just fit, and is not under the trailer, hard to access and/or prone to being struck.

When I get it finished, I will post some more pics.

Thanks,

Frank
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:16 AM   #30
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Help me out a bit here. I got a 1/4"X6" bolt and wingnut, so every time I remove the cap, I have to remove the 6" bolt. Sounds like you have a better idea, but ya know, a picture is like a 1000 words...

Got post caps this morning at Lowe's. Convertible - remove the 4-3/4" adapter and have a 5" cap. Or glue the adapter in (which I will have to do), and have 4-3/4" caps. I was just surprised to find them in Catskill.

My next challenge will be to bolt this to the battery cover such that the bolts don't come near wires or especially the battery terminals. Actually I think I could just use two bolts to hold it, and install them on the side away from the terminals. This 4-3/4" tube fits between the propane tank cover and the trailer like it was made to go there.

About all I need to do now is to flush the antifreeze out, check the tire pressure, and get a new anode for the hot water tank. First planned camping trip is more than a month away.

BTW, where should I flush the antifreeze out?

Frank
I'll post a picture this afternoon.
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:18 AM   #31
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I'll post a picture this afternoon.
Sounds good. I was thinking about small latches too, one on each side?

Frank
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:32 AM   #32
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Early on I had a friend who hated the long bolt and wingnut cap attachment while I thought it worked well. Then I got to see his. He had them positioned horizontally while mine were vertical. Inserting the bolt from the bottom I could easily see to line it up while his required a contortionist. BTW I also had two fender washers on mine to avoid wear on the holes.
The only disadvantage I could see was the possibility of losing a piece since none of it was attached. Fortunately I never did.

Walt
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Old 05-07-2015, 09:44 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by WaltP View Post
Early on I had a friend who hated the long bolt and wingnut cap attachment while I thought it worked well. Then I got to see his. He had them positioned horizontally while mine were vertical. Inserting the bolt from the bottom I could easily see to line it up while his required a contortionist. BTW I also had two fender washers on mine to avoid wear on the holes.
The only disadvantage I could see was the possibility of losing a piece since none of it was attached. Fortunately I never did.

Walt
Great idea Walt, as I was going to do mine horizontal. Actually I am waiting with baited breath to see what Norm & Ginny did. No big deal, as I am still a working stiff and won't be home till 4:30 anyways. I still think side latches would work well if I could just find the right thing. Hmmm...

Thanks,

Frank
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Old 05-07-2015, 11:15 AM   #34
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Frank
The benefit of latches would be that there are no loose parts to lose. If you come up with one I'll be interested.

Walt
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Old 05-07-2015, 12:27 PM   #35
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Frank,
Here's two pictures of my end caps. ( I don't know how I doubled the first one)

The first picture shows my two pipes. The one at the right has a permanent Screw because I never open that end, the second has a wing screw, without a nut. It is about an inch long. I Drill a clearance hole for the screw through the edge of the cap. I put the cap on the post and drill a hole through the clearance hole into the post. The diameter of the hole through the post is less than the diameter of the wing screw. The wing screw threads into the plastic post.

We've used it for a couple of years without issue.

I used these same caps on another trailer. Note there's a hole thru the center of the cap. I used to run a knotted cord thru there tied off in the post to keep the cap from getting lost. Seemed unnecessary.

Part of one side of the cap is gone because it was used differently on a previous trailer.

Note the bottom edge of the cap, it's not a straight edge. I slightly deformed this edge by heating and bending it inward. (it doesn't take a lot of heat, just near the flameheat) The bent edge easily keeps the bottom on tightly.

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Old 05-07-2015, 12:32 PM   #36
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Frank,
Here's two pictures of my end caps.
The first picture shows my two pipes. The one at the right has a permanent Screw because I never open that end, the second has a wing screw, without a nut. It is about an inch long. I Drill a clearance hole for the screw through the edge of the cap. I put the cap on the post and drill a hole through the clearance hole into the post. The diameter of this hole is less than the diameter of the wing screw. The wing screw threads into the plastic post.

We've used it for a couple of years without issue.

I used these same caps on another trailer. Note there's a hole thru the center of the cap. I used to run a knotted cord thru there tied off in the post to keep the cap from getting lost. Seemed unnecessary.

Part of one side of the cap is gone because it was used differently on a previous trailer.

Note the bottom edge of the cap, note that it's not a straight edge. I slightly deformed this edge by heating and bending it inward. (it doesn't take a lot of heat, just near the flameheat) the end easily keeps the bottom on.
Nice job, and a great idea too (I would expect no less). A wing screw huh? Never heard of that or seen one before, but I'll take a look. Off to the local hardware store after work to get two propane tanks filled, and will ask.

Thanks!

Frank
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Old 05-07-2015, 12:35 PM   #37
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Nice job, and a great idea too (I would expect no less). A wing screw huh? Never heard of that or seen one before, but I'll take a look. Off to the local hardware store after work to get two propane tanks filled, and will ask.

Thanks!

Frank
Lowes and Home Depot have them, usually in their pull out drawers in the hardware aisle. Those drawers are fun to go through.
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Old 05-07-2015, 12:38 PM   #38
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Lowes and Home Depot have them, usually in their pull out drawers in the hardware aisle. Those drawers are fun to go through.
Yes they are. The hardware store I'm heading for after work is a local hometown kind of hardware store. Great place to go, even with Lowe's and Home Depot here in town. They beat everybody around for propane prices.

If they don't have them, Lowe's is just down the street. That's where I got the post caps this morning. Actually I may have something in my personal hardware collection at home...

More later.

Thanks!

Frank
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Old 05-07-2015, 12:40 PM   #39
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Help me out a bit here. I got a 1/4"X6" bolt and wingnut, so every time I remove the cap, I have to remove the 6" bolt. Sounds like you have a better idea, but ya know, a picture is like a 1000 words...


I put a SS hinge and clip (from a marine store) on the end caps of the fence post for the slinky hose. Happy with it & in two years of travel since doing it, it has not popped open even on rough roads. Just need to really plan it out before installing the hardware to make sure it does not end up so loose that that clip could pop open on its own. I had to trim/cut out small bits of the PRV on the cap as well as the fence post, in order to do that though.

BTW the PO of my trailer had added a large PVC round pipe to the front of the trailer in the same post you have put yours, but they put it below the tongue frame - it was hardly noticeable there. I left it there for a number of years of travel and it never hit ground or scraped on anything and it was a few inches wider/closer to the ground than the fence post your are using would be.
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Old 05-07-2015, 12:45 PM   #40
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Nice job Carol. Very professional looking.

Anywhere I look under my trailer for a place to put this holder is a problem. I would prefer it to be near the tank in the back, but anywhere I look there is obstruction. Where I have it seems to be the best place, and probably easiest on my back. I'll take another look tonight. Nothing is fastened yet.

Thanks!

Frank
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Old 05-07-2015, 08:21 PM   #41
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Nice job Carol. Very professional looking.



Frank
Thanks I did the install but can't take credit for the cleaver idea as others here had done it before me.

A detailed explanation as to how to do it can be found on the Casita Forum.
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Old 05-13-2015, 07:50 PM   #42
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Here's what I did. Ordered a set of 4 stainless steel clasps through Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1), installed them tonight, one on each side, both ends. This will allow me to easily wash out the tube, should need be, or access it from either end.



Busy through the entire day till late tomorrow, but tomorrow morning before work I will see if there's space to fit underneath the battery box instead of on top of it. It might, but there's a solid gas line there that looks like it will nix that plan.

Soon as I figure that out and mount it, will share a pic.

Frank
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