Why oh why trillium! - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-24-2014, 06:29 PM   #1
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Name: matt
Trailer: 1975 Trillium 1300
New Jersey
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Why oh why trillium!

Just dropped the frame out from under my 1975 trillium 1300. I am going to complete the recall bracing for the cracked frame, even though mine never cracked, I was going to take my trailer to the shop so they could inspect the axle, but if it needs to be replaced it will cost me a small fortune, the axle is welded on, not bolted. Does anyone know the best way to test torsion axles to see if they are ok, I really don't want to replace this one now!!!Click image for larger version

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Old 08-24-2014, 06:57 PM   #2
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Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
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I don't know anything scientific but I would jump up and down on it and see how much "spring" I had left. In the case of my Scamp, it was "none".
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Old 08-24-2014, 07:00 PM   #3
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As is said on Facebook (often) Following....
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Old 08-24-2014, 07:07 PM   #4
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Your axle is 37 years old and now with a bare frame this would be the time to replace it. I do not know what your definition of a small fortune is ,but Scamp replaced my 3500 lb axle for under $600 which included new brakes . My old axle was welded on ,the new one was bolted on. Changing it out now would be cheap insurance if you plan on remodeling and keeping the trailer IMHO
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:33 PM   #5
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Name: matt
Trailer: 1975 Trillium 1300
New Jersey
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Yeah I guess I'll take it to the trailer shop and find out, I'm afraid that if I don't replace it I will have issues with it at a later date,


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Old 08-24-2014, 11:15 PM   #6
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
California
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Well Matt, with all the work you've done to remove the shell it seems to me that replacing the axle now is an excelent time....if it's welded on again you can't burn the trailer down
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:19 AM   #7
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Alberta
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The cost of putting brakes on your old axle are comparable to the cost of a new axle, with brakes. Shop around for the install. Adding the bolting option will cost more, but it is worth it, in my opinion.

You might also want to examine the welds on your cross members. On my trailer, they were really only tack welds. I had them done better while my trailer was off the frame.
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Old 08-26-2014, 12:50 PM   #8
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
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Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
Adding the bolting option will cost more, but it is worth it, in my opinion.
If I recall, it was in the $20-40 range. Well worth it.
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Old 08-26-2014, 02:56 PM   #9
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Trailer: 1978 Trillium 13 ft
Ohio
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How hard was it to get the body off the frame? I plan on doing mine within a month or two and I don't see anyone helping me except my wife.
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:01 PM   #10
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Mine was done at Trillium / Outback, so it was really easy. On a 4500 there are 8 bolts holding the trailer to the frame. Four in the gaucho, four in the dinette seats. A 1300 only has two in the dinette seats. After you get those off, (no small feat) then the body gets jacked up till you can pull the frame out. Two long 6 x 6 timbers would help. I had the new bolts installed with the nuts on the inside, so rust would not be such an issue next time.
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Old 08-26-2014, 05:04 PM   #11
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If you really, really don't want to replace the axle now you could have your welder cut off the old axle and put in bolt on mounts on both the trailer and the old axle and remount the axle. Then when you decide to tackle the axle issue its a 2 hour swap instead of an all weekend project needing some one to cut out the old and weld in the new.

What ever you do, while you are this far, make drawings and take pictures of what you have so when you are ready to order your new axle your not doing this lying on you back under the trailer.
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Old 08-26-2014, 05:40 PM   #12
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Ohio
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Sorry. It appears I had hijacked your post. I'll make another post for me.

I would change the axel as well since you have the body off. I would not want to do it a second time.
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