Will new Scamp Entry door Hinges fit on an 1981 13' Boler? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-16-2012, 10:47 PM   #15
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I can't locate anymore pictures of the hinge install, it was 7 years and three computers ago. The trailer is in storage right now so the weekend would be the soonest I might be able to get pictures. The hinges are in the original locations and the shims just kick the bottom of the bottom hinge out and the top of the top hinge out to bring the pins into more of a straight line. They aren't completely straight but work well.
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Old 01-16-2012, 11:07 PM   #16
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Name: Joel
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Liz, not to worry, don't go out of your way to get pictures. was just wanting to see how much shim material you used and to see what kinda angle they are sitting at? but don't go out of your way to do that for me, its really not necessary at all. thought you might have it on location or even have more pictures on hand. was just looking for more close up shots of all angles.

I appreciate what you were able to post. can you tell me if you filled in the original holes? i see you had that one shot thre and the scamps were installed but i could see the original holes still? did you just fill them and leave them? or did you fill them and repaint the whole trailer?

also, do you have your old original hinges now? because id buy them from you? or at least consider it if you have pictures?

thanks,


Joel
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:04 AM   #17
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Name: Harvey
Trailer: '84 Scamp 13' & 2001 Casita 17' Spirit Deluxe
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Been watching this thread with interest for a couple of days. My '84 Scamp 13 had the original(?) door hinges when I bought it last winter but the pins were a 'cobbled-up' mess. Some PO had replaced the brass ball with a 'rounded' type nut & a 5/16 bolt with no 'flex spring'. I ordered a new hinge repair kit from Scamp & installed it some months ago. The 'kit' came with a 1/4" bolt, the brass ball, a spring & 'ny-lok' type nut for each bolt. The ball is drilled for the 1/4" bolt but my hinges have 5/16 vertical holes for the pin. Can someone tell me if the hinges should have 1/4" holes or have they been 'drilled out'? I do know that since I replaced the pins the door opens easier & further back than before (still 'hits' the belly band just before fully open) but I'd think that should be a function of the ball & the 'flex' spring rather than a 'shifting' pin?? One thing, when the ny-lok nuts that came with the kit are tightened so that the 'locking' part of the nut is engaged, there is little to no flex left in the spring. I've considered buying some stainless steel 5/16" bolts to replace the 1/4" pins, drill out the balls to accept the 5/16" bolts, & make sure the bolts are long enough that the springs flex correctly when the door is opened fully.

To answer some of Joel's (idiotsniff) question, my hinges appear to be identical (no 1 & 2) but I haven't taken 'em off to check for numbers on reverse side. The bottom hinge is mounted at a slightly 'up' angle (both pieces not square to the door) while the base piece (body side) of upper hinge appears to be at a slightly less 'up' angle?? Pretty sure this isn't just camera angle as It is quite obvious when I look at them closely. Apparently there has been some stress at the lower hinge as there is some 'crazing' in the FG around the door piece. I also intend to replace the rusted attaching bolts with some stainless hardware. I'm not sure if there will be significant 'galvanic' action with 3 different metals (aluminum, brass, & stainless) but the zinc bolts originally used have rusted badly over the years so I doubt that stainless will do any worse.

Just in case Sheryl doesn't get to it (or the dimensions are different), on my '84 Scamp 13, the center of the lower bolt in the upper hinge is 14.5" above the top of the belly band, & the center of the top bolt in the bottom hinge is 11" from lower side of the belly band.

Here are a few pix of the hinge arrangement on my Scamp -





Lower hinge, note the 'upward' mounting angle toward the door


Upper hinge, note there is little 'flex space' left in the spring


Upper hinge with door open
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Old 01-17-2012, 04:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idiotsniff View Post
I appreciate what you were able to post. can you tell me if you filled in the original holes? i see you had that one shot thre and the scamps were installed but i could see the original holes still? did you just fill them and leave them? or did you fill them and repaint the whole trailer?

also, do you have your old original hinges now? because id buy them from you? or at least consider it if you have pictures?
I filled in all the original holes with a mix of epoxy and chopped fiberglass, it was what I had on hand. Nope the trailer has not been painted, it's a patched up mess. I don't think I still have the old hinges, they were in really bad shape with no balls and toilet bolts dropped through them to keep the door from falling off.

I think the widest part of the shim is about 3/8th of an inch.
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Old 01-17-2012, 05:21 PM   #19
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Name: Joel
Trailer: 1981 Boler
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wow Liz,

3/8 of an inch is a lot of shim. I ask about your originals because you can buy repair kits to fix the original hinges. new balls, bolts, a spring and a nut. and that would care of the missing items you speak of.

the PO of boler did a real hatchet job on our boler too. and because of that we have to paint ours.. real bummer. but i knew that buying it. we got a steal of a deal on our boler. and the rest of it in in excellent condition, so I really can't complain. just wish these scamp hinges worked a little better. didn't get a chance to call scamp today. but will have to try tomorrow.

if you ever come across them and don't want them, would you keep me in mind? I'd buy them from you.

thanks again for all the help.


Joel
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Old 01-17-2012, 07:43 PM   #20
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I measured from the belly band to the center bolt--top hinge is 14; bottom is 8. Remember, though, that I had to wing it as I couldn't tell where the original hinges were. (My door had been abused pretty badly!! Surprisingly, though, my curve isn't tooooo bad!) I did have to redrill my top hinge holes on the door side as I initially put them too close and the door couldn't seat into place properly. By that time I had been fiberglassing enough covering the old patches that it didn't even bother me! I believe I drilled and loosely bolted the center bolt on the body first. Then I had help holding the door in place to determine where the door side of the hinge fastened, and to get the angle right on the body side of the hinge. It was awkward, but not difficult. Well, except for those extra holes

I do know for sure that both hinges are the same--I believe that was a change in recent years as I know I read that they were numbered 1 and 2. As I said, the Scamp guy assured me they were now the same, and the new hinges seem to work fine. I'm not seeing any binding, the door opens nicely. Seems to me the key is to not get the hinges too far apart so that you're fighting the curve.
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Old 01-17-2012, 09:22 PM   #21
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Both the hinges are the same. The top hinge is 15 1/2" from the top of the belly band to the middle of the hinge and the bottom hinge is 12" from the top of the belly band to the middle of the hinge. I installed mine in the original hinge location and had the door only open to 90 degrees because it hit the belly band. My father has a 1980 Scamp so I took the measurements from his and relocated the hinges and the door works perfect.
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Old 01-17-2012, 10:38 PM   #22
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Name: Joel
Trailer: 1981 Boler
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Harvey, wow thank you for all the pictures and info. really appreciate that.

I find it really odd they didn't make these hinges numbered and design them so they are in more of a level state when they are bolted to the trailers. doesn't make much sense.

I wish i could answer your question on the bolt size, but i don't have any scamp hinges yet nor do i have the original boler ones to see how they are built. so hopefully someone else could asnwer your question on the bolt diameter.

also, thanks for the measurements. i'm going to have to get out and compare everyones measurments and see what looks to be the best way to go.

really appreciate the reply.

I'll have to post my experience with these hinges once I order them and install them. just hope it all works out good. wish we could get the boler inside someplace to start working on it now over the winter, but we don't have a garage that is in usable condition at the moment.

thanks again,


Joel
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Old 01-17-2012, 10:42 PM   #23
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psyber guy,

so the 15.5" and the 12" measurements are the final measurements since you reinstalled them? just want to double check.

so your door doesn't hit the belly band at all now? and it opens 180 degrees abouts now since re adjusting your hinges? do you have binding issues?

also, with your dads scamp, he has his original hinges I assume? do his hinges look like the newer ones you bought from scamp? doe the part that sticks out from the body that supports the brass ball look like it sits at more of a level plane? and are his hinges different between the two of them?

thanks for the help,


joel
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Old 01-17-2012, 11:02 PM   #24
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The measurements are where I relocated the door to. Yes the door opens to 180 degrees and doesn't hit the belly band. My new hinges are the same as my dads originals. When I say the middle of the hinge I ment the middle bolt hole on the body side. I just ordered mine from the scamp website ond ordered one set of hinges that cost $26.00. Both of his hinges are the same just like the new ones. A mistake some people make is to overtighten the pivot bolts. The new ones come with a lock nut and the spring should only have slight tension on it with the door in the closed position to give ball room to move when the door is opened.
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Old 01-18-2012, 08:02 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by psyber_guy View Post
The measurements are where I relocated the door to. Yes the door opens to 180 degrees and doesn't hit the belly band. My new hinges are the same as my dads originals. When I say the middle of the hinge I ment the middle bolt hole on the body side. I just ordered mine from the scamp website ond ordered one set of hinges that cost $26.00. Both of his hinges are the same just like the new ones. A mistake some people make is to overtighten the pivot bolts. The new ones come with a lock nut and the spring should only have slight tension on it with the door in the closed position to give ball room to move when the door is opened.
Craig
That's what I'd mentioned in my post above Craig. The hinge repair kit that I ordered from Scamp came with 1/4" bolts (pins), balls, springs, & the locking nuts. The holes (for the pins) already in my hinges are 5/16" diameter (dunno if they've been 'drilled' out or not?). When I tighten the locking nuts 'til the poly lock portion engages the bolt threads, the spring is too compressed to provide much flex. Makes me wonder if I should get larger or longer bolts (pins) to provide more flex when the door 'swings'. Can you tell me the diameter of the pivot pin holes in your new hinges? TIA
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Old 01-18-2012, 05:32 PM   #26
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What ever you do get yourself stainless hardware. The stuff (junk) that come with the hinges rusts pretty quick.
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Old 01-18-2012, 07:29 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizbeth View Post
What ever you do get yourself stainless hardware. The stuff (junk) that come with the hinges rusts pretty quick.
I agree--I didn't and I'm already seeing some rust.
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:19 PM   #28
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Thanks Lizbeth & Sheryl. I fully intend to replace the hinge 'pins' with stainless as well as the attaching bolts. Dunno if I can find stainless springs near enough in size/tension to the factory 'flex' springs but if not I'll change 'em out when they begin corrode. Now I just need to know if the 1/4" pins in the factory 'kit' are what I should be using in the 5/16" holes of my hinges. If my hinges have been drilled out to accommodate the 5/16" pins that were in there when I bought the trailer, I may just find some corresponding size stainless pins & drill out the brass balls to fit. Or, it may be more appropriate to order new hinges that'll have correct fitting pins, springs, balls, etc??
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