Will new Scamp Entry door Hinges fit on an 1981 13' Boler?

[psyber_guy]

Both the hinges are the same. The top hinge is 15 1/2" from the top of the belly band to the middle of the hinge and the bottom hinge is 12" from the top of the belly band to the middle of the hinge. I installed mine in the original hinge location and had the door only open to 90 degrees because it hit the belly band. My father has a 1980 Scamp so I took the measurements from his and relocated the hinges and the door works perfect.
Craig

[idiotsniff]

Harvey, wow thank you for all the pictures and info. really appreciate that.

I find it really odd they didn't make these hinges numbered and design them so they are in more of a level state when they are bolted to the trailers. doesn't make much sense.

I wish i could answer your question on the bolt size, but i don't have any scamp hinges yet nor do i have the original boler ones to see how they are built. so hopefully someone else could asnwer your question on the bolt diameter.

also, thanks for the measurements. i'm going to have to get out and compare everyones measurments and see what looks to be the best way to go.

really appreciate the reply.

I'll have to post my experience with these hinges once I order them and install them. just hope it all works out good. wish we could get the boler inside someplace to start working on it now over the winter, but we don't have a garage that is in usable condition at the moment.

thanks again,


Joel

[idiotsniff]

psyber guy,

so the 15.5" and the 12" measurements are the final measurements since you reinstalled them? just want to double check.

so your door doesn't hit the belly band at all now? and it opens 180 degrees abouts now since re adjusting your hinges? do you have binding issues?

also, with your dads scamp, he has his original hinges I assume? do his hinges look like the newer ones you bought from scamp? doe the part that sticks out from the body that supports the brass ball look like it sits at more of a level plane? and are his hinges different between the two of them?

thanks for the help,


joel

[psyber_guy]

The measurements are where I relocated the door to. Yes the door opens to 180 degrees and doesn't hit the belly band. My new hinges are the same as my dads originals. When I say the middle of the hinge I ment the middle bolt hole on the body side. I just ordered mine from the scamp website ond ordered one set of hinges that cost $26.00. Both of his hinges are the same just like the new ones. A mistake some people make is to overtighten the pivot bolts. The new ones come with a lock nut and the spring should only have slight tension on it with the door in the closed position to give ball room to move when the door is opened.
Craig

[Harvey]

Originally Posted by psyber_guy

The measurements are where I relocated the door to. Yes the door opens to 180 degrees and doesn't hit the belly band. My new hinges are the same as my dads originals. When I say the middle of the hinge I ment the middle bolt hole on the body side. I just ordered mine from the scamp website ond ordered one set of hinges that cost $26.00. Both of his hinges are the same just like the new ones. A mistake some people make is to overtighten the pivot bolts. The new ones come with a lock nut and the spring should only have slight tension on it with the door in the closed position to give ball room to move when the door is opened.
Craig

That's what I'd mentioned in my post above Craig. The hinge repair kit that I ordered from Scamp came with 1/4" bolts (pins), balls, springs, & the locking nuts. The holes (for the pins) already in my hinges are 5/16" diameter (dunno if they've been 'drilled' out or not?). When I tighten the locking nuts 'til the poly lock portion engages the bolt threads, the spring is too compressed to provide much flex. Makes me wonder if I should get larger or longer bolts (pins) to provide more flex when the door 'swings'. Can you tell me the diameter of the pivot pin holes in your new hinges? TIA

[Lizbeth]

What ever you do get yourself stainless hardware. The stuff (junk) that come with the hinges rusts pretty quick.

[Sheryl]

Originally Posted by Lizbeth

What ever you do get yourself stainless hardware. The stuff (junk) that come with the hinges rusts pretty quick.

I agree--I didn't and I'm already seeing some rust.

[Harvey]

Thanks Lizbeth & Sheryl. I fully intend to replace the hinge 'pins' with stainless as well as the attaching bolts. Dunno if I can find stainless springs near enough in size/tension to the factory 'flex' springs but if not I'll change 'em out when they begin corrode. Now I just need to know if the 1/4" pins in the factory 'kit' are what I should be using in the 5/16" holes of my hinges. If my hinges have been drilled out to accommodate the 5/16" pins that were in there when I bought the trailer, I may just find some corresponding size stainless pins & drill out the brass balls to fit. Or, it may be more appropriate to order new hinges that'll have correct fitting pins, springs, balls, etc??

[Lizbeth]

Harvey, hubby is home and he says there is supposed to be bolt "slop" in the hinge holes. It allows for the "off axis" rotation because the hinges aren't completely aligned because of the body curve.

[Harvey]

Thanks Lizbeth! I'll proceed with my first plan & acquire some 1/4" stainless bolts that are slightly longer than the zinc bolts that came with the repair kit, to allow for the spring flex. Since the door opens much more easily now than with the PO's arrangement, I wasn't sure if the 'friction' was caused by the tight fitting 5/16" bolts he used or the 'rounded' nuts he'd substituted for the brass ball. Probably a combination of both. Also, he had no springs at all on the pins to allow for hinge 'shift' when opening the door. Thanks again for all help/advice.