Window fix on 77 scamp - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-05-2015, 08:28 PM   #1
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Name: paulette
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Window fix on 77 scamp

My windows are all junk. I've been toying around with the idea of redoing them all but it's been impossible to find all of the glazing especially for the larger windows (front and back). I'm seriously crunched for time and found a fiberglass guy. Was wondering if anyone here has used fiberglass to resize the holes to fit scamps new windows? I was considering simply fiberglassing over the front window and pretending it never happened. But my back hole right now is 20x44 and slightly curved. The new window is 18x42 and flat. Anyone think it's possible to make this work? Anyone done it?
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:39 PM   #2
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 1300 - 2014 Escape 19'
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The original Jalousie windows are awesome, they open 100% and are the only windows you can leave open in the rain. Almost all the parts are available to repair them so they can be repaired and made as good or better than new.

The front and rear windows are simply 3/16" or 4.5mm acrylic. there are no problems replacing them

Front & Rear Windows - The Complete Guide to 13' Boler Fiberglass Trailers

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Old 07-05-2015, 08:43 PM   #3
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I guess I was looking to preserve the functionality of the back window by installing the slider. The guy at scamp told me he thought it would be better to just get rid of the front window since they have so many problems with leaks and such. I read the thread on the jalousie windows but the one company changed its name and I couldn't find the one type of glazing. The only place that has it won't answer their phone and I have to have the trailer done by the 15th. Not having a window would be problematic for that lol
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:50 PM   #4
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Flat windows won't fit the front and rear because of the curve, those later models that use flat front/rear windows are from a different mold that use a flat area in those locations. Let me know what side window parts you are looking for and I can probably direct you to a supplier
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:53 PM   #5
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So if I went the fiberglass route, how would I know what size fiberglass to get? I know scamp sells the gasket and the lockstrip stuff. I cannot find the piece that goes at the end of each small pane and I also tried for 2 hours with no success to remove the old stuff.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:57 PM   #6
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I think it is just terminology but I am not sure what you are referring to when you say "fiberglass". The front and rear windows are clear plexiglass, I thought you were wanting to fill in the openings with opaque fiberglass like the rest of the body. Maybe take some pictures so we can see what you are considering.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:59 PM   #7
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The front window would be fiberglass. It would be gone and look like part of the body. The rear window I would Love to be a functional window. Is there anyway to accomplish this?
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:16 PM   #8
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So far I was only able to locate the glazing bead and the vent closing seal.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:19 PM   #9
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I could not find the rubber molding. Part is h009-291. All of the mechanical parts work, it's just these rubber parts that need replacing. Oh and about half of the screws have broken off heads (came that way I didn't break them) and I wasn't quite sure how to get them out. I would like to keep them, I just need all of my stuff quickly.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:48 PM   #10
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What I did, pictures coming in about 2 weeks

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Originally Posted by paulitee View Post
My windows are all junk. I've been toying around with the idea of redoing them all but it's been impossible to find all of the glazing especially for the larger windows (front and back). I'm seriously crunched for time and found a fiberglass guy. Was wondering if anyone here has used fiberglass to resize the holes to fit scamps new windows? I was considering simply fiberglassing over the front window and pretending it never happened. But my back hole right now is 20x44 and slightly curved. The new window is 18x42 and flat. Anyone think it's possible to make this work? Anyone done it?
I've been soo busy with other things, haven't been working on Totie a lot, but I did do something rather radical...
we had a friend who is a brown belt in karate....
side kick my plexi scratched up leaky globbed-with-30-years-of-silicone "windows" the heck out
BAM!!!
What fun!
They came out in about 4 pieces each, took off the ancient rubber gasket and off to the junk yard they went. No tears.

I'd bought flat glass RV windows with crank-out openings and aluminum frames. Hmmm...how the heck to put these in? They were different size by about 1" width and 1.5" height. So the openings got chopped to size. Hmm now what...OK they fit in but there's a compound curve, oops I think I really goofed this thing up! Good thing I didn't pay much for it! But wait, I think there's a solution...what I've been insulating the wall hollows with all along...Great Stuff Foam.

So I built with 2 rolls of blue painter's tape, a "form" for the support of the windows.
then I injected foam, for a perfect fit...then I removed the tape, and I was going to pop the windows out...ooops, majorly stuck (I wrote before how my progress is usually 2 steps forward, 3 back, 5 forward, 1 back, etc.)...what if I LEFT them in place and bondo's around them and trimmed them on the inside with wood?
Nope, not happening, compound curve wood moulding is in the "forget about it" difficulty category. So, I multimastered the windows back out and was left with this wonderful foam form with some bondo on it.
Next I took some fleece and dipped it in resin/catalyst and put it on the front window frame, in the back I just did that with plain old fiberglass.

So I'm at the stage where they'll be 240 ground to a real nice smooth "custom" protrusion as well as on the inside, nice and smooth. Then sanded, then test fitted, then reground, etc... then painted and I'll put the windows in with black gooey windshield caulk and bolt them all around with #8 bolts and locknuts/washers trimmed flush.

So I took a huge risk cutting the opening but you know what...at this point I think it's going to work (I hope!) and they will not leak because they're vertical plus they open up! Nice. Plus if they ever break I can just replace panes of glass. I also like the way they look.

In a few weeks I'll post my pictures of the windows, so I haven't gotten much done except for the insulation and my windows fiasco. These windows new cost over $900 each but I got them on eBay used for about $150 each, they're nice tinted.
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