Window Seal For 1975 Boler - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-17-2015, 10:25 PM   #1
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Window Seal For 1975 Boler

I'm in the process of restoring my 1975 Boler. I have a window seal that leaks but I'm unsure of where to buy a new rubber seal. While I'm at it, I think I'll replace both window seals. I live in Alberta and willing to pay exchange and shipping from the USA to canada.

Thank you

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Old 03-18-2015, 11:42 AM   #2
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Hello ArneB

I am Dena in Ontario and am a new member to FiberglassRV. I own also a 1975 Boler and just love it! This site has some amazing people with wonderful things to share and connect with...I am so glad to be here!
Last year was a big year renovating my Boler and one problem also was the back window leaking. We first took the window out and cleaned all of the old silicone and glue attempts off the rubber seal, the window and the body. Then bought 1/4" tubing to fit in the trough on the rubber seal. Back together the window and seal went with some good RV silicone, placed the tubing in the trough and now...No more leaks!
It might be worth a try first.
Good luck
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:03 PM   #3
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A cleaner look for the window seal is to use a one piece locking molding rather than the original 2 piece. It is available through TrimLoc distributors, in Canada that is Argus Industries. Use molding WREK1522, although it is designed for 1/16" body side and 1/4" glass it works best because you will need 3/16" acrylic and the body fiberglass is about 1/8" so it seals well.

http://shop.argusindustries.ca/collections/locking-gasket

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Old 03-18-2015, 12:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dena in Ontario View Post
...first took the window out and cleaned all of the old silicone and glue attempts off the rubber seal, the window and the body. Then bought 1/4" tubing to fit in the trough on the rubber seal. Back together the window and seal went with some good RV silicone, placed the tubing in the trough and now...No more leaks!
It might be worth a try first.
Good luck
I know Donna Dee will chime in hear also but NEVER USE SILICON, it is a very evil product, stay far away from it.

If the front or rear window is leaking you should always replace the rubber molding. It hardens and shrinks with age and will never seal properly, new molding is very pliable and will last a long time.
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Old 03-18-2015, 12:43 PM   #5
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Dena there is no way I can get my window seal off. It's very ridged and has lost its flexibility. Ian I've checked your recommended website and ordering enough for the front and back window. Thanks so much for the help!
The people on this sight are amazing and helpful beyond belief.
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Old 03-18-2015, 01:35 PM   #6
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Arne here is a tip. when installing the new molding make sure it is seated very well onto the fiberglass shell, use a rubber mallet to seat it really well. where the 2 ends join (positioned at the bottom) make sure the 2 ends overlap by a good 3/4", pull a few inches of molding out of the body, apply some tire patch cement (this is a rubber vulcanizing solvent used to apply patches to bike tires and available at Canadian Tire, etc) place the 2 ends together then force the molding into the body opening. This will keep the molding tightly pressed together at the join and eliminate the chance for leaks
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Old 03-18-2015, 03:52 PM   #7
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Ian thanks for the tip. I'm hoping to put new windows in end of April. I ordered the window seal this morning.


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Old 03-20-2015, 11:15 PM   #8
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As I mentioned Ian I've ordered the window seal. You very clearly explained how to secure the seal to the fibreglass. Im just wondering how the window is fit in place? It looks as though it could be tricky. I'm assuming the window goes in after the seal is fastened to the fibreglass?



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Old 03-28-2015, 07:25 AM   #9
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Sorry Arne, missed this reply. Yes the rubber molding is first placed around the opening, I like to start on the top, holding the molding in the center (so you have 6' on each side of your hand) and start working the molding over the fiberglass lip. As you progress use a rubber mallet to pound the seal onto the body making sure it is fully seated. Work the molding around the corners, again using the rubber mallet to make sure it is fully seated THIS IS CRITICAL!!. Continue working your way around, alternating side to side. When you reach the bottom trim one end so it will be in the middle of the opening and seat that side. Take the final side mark the end so you have the 3/4" overlap, glue the two ends together then seat the final section. Finally go around the molding one more time with the mallet making sure it is fully seated, then you are ready to start the window install. The best tool to cut the molding is a pair of garden pruning shears.

Mix up a soapy water solution and generously apply around the molding and window edges, place the window in the lower groove then slowly work the molding lip over the edge of the window. Be careful not to scratch the acrylic, I made simple plastic tools for this out of some scrap acrylic. They look like a letter opener with a slightly rounded point and beveled edges to a rounded edge (don't need anything sharp).

Continue pressing the window into the molding while at the same time gently prying the molding over the glass, also continued to apply more soapy water, I used a spray bottle, applying every minute or so. The job is not hard but it can be frustrating at times as the window may want to pop out at times, an extra set of hands is useful. the final little section the window will "pop" into place.

You're not finished yet, now the lock strip or the locking tab depending if you used one or two piece molding. Continue to use lots of soapy water and work the seal into place, special tools are available to install the locks, but I find various sized blade screwdrivers (preferably ones that you have eased the sharp corners). Again work your way around the window, gently spreading the molding, pushing on the lock until it slowly snaps into position all the way around.
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Old 03-28-2015, 08:17 AM   #10
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Ian, I'm a little confused (normal state for me!) concerning one-piece locking gasket WREK #1522, and the two-piece locking gasket sold by Scamp.

I have viewed a video showing how the two-piece locking gasket is locked into place. However, I don't understand how the one-piece gasket is locked into place after the window is inserted into the gasket!

Help!

Bill
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Old 03-28-2015, 08:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Nolen View Post
Ian, I'm a little confused (normal state for me!) concerning one-piece locking gasket WREK #1522, and the two-piece locking gasket sold by Scamp.

I have viewed a video showing how the two-piece locking gasket is locked into place. However, I don't understand how the one-piece gasket is locked into place after the window is inserted into the gasket!

Help!

Bill
The one piece molding uses the same principle of forcing the molding apart at the center to clamp it to both the body and the window. The 2 piece uses a locking spline, the one piece uses a flap or tab that locks into a groove withing the center channel

Here is a side view of the molding that may help you visualize it.

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Old 03-28-2015, 10:11 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian G. View Post
The one piece molding uses the same principle of forcing the molding apart at the center to clamp it to both the body and the window. The 2 piece uses a locking spline, the one piece uses a flap or tab that locks into a groove withing the center channel

Here is a side view of the molding that may help you visualize it.

Yes indeed! Now I understand how it works! Thank you very much!

Do you place the locking tab on the inside of the window?

Bill
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:18 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Bill Nolen View Post
Yes indeed! Now I understand how it works! Thank you very much!

Do you place the locking tab on the inside of the window?

Bill
NO NO NEVER put the locking tab or strip on the inside on either type of window molding!!!!
The lock always goes to the outside but as you can see in my picture on reply #3 the seam is barely visible when using the one piece molding, that is why I prefer it.
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Old 03-28-2015, 06:39 PM   #14
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There is a lot more work to installing the molding that I realized. Thanks for the very helpful tips and instructions Ian G. This gives me a great starting point. I ordered my molding and it's being shipped April 10th. Thanks so much again.
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