Window Unit in Compact Jr

[Phill Roehrs]

After thinking on it for 2 years, and keeping tabs on great AC discussions here, I finally installed a window unit on the CJ. It took a bit of dry fitting and some head scratching, but it turned out to be really simple and easy - two pieces of wood.





The stock side windows in Compacts are sliders with screens. The slider and screen pop out without tools. The open frame has several rows of 'channels' (for the screen and slider) that work great in chocking the AC unit in place. My bottom piece is the same 3/4 inch stock I framed the windows with, and it fits tight into the slider track - all along the bottom and on one end. The top piece is 1/8 inch 'sandy ply' and it fits snuggly into the screen track, top and both sides. (The top piece is inserted 'mid frame' by bowing the piece slightly to insert both ends, then is slid up the channel into place.)

Had to modify the mounting hardware slightly - hacksawed the 'run' of the AC's side curtain/supports shorter so it could narrow to the CJ's window width - - eliminated one curtain.

With those in place, the AC unit mounts in minutes, just like hanging one on a first floor home window.

[Phill Roehrs]

We took the new AC on its maiden voyage this past weekend to Cape Hatteras. OMG! Air Conditioning, for a mid-Atlantic peak summer camp at the shoreline, is the bomb. It's a 5000 BTU unit, and was able to keep up against full sun, high 90's, with humidity in the 90's. Dry and very cool.






Of course we don't tow with the unit in place. It only takes 5 minutes to put it on and to put it away, it'll stay in the garage for most trips. But it seems sturdy enough when it's mounted, no deflections - left it mounted for a week at home with no change.

I'm a happy camper.

[Scott S.]

nicely done... and I like the decor in the trailer too.

[Heath G.]

Phill, nice job on the a/c. I to have a 72 compact and am torn. I don't know if i like the way Rick did his a/c or your's better.

I am planning on doing a rebuild of my JR in the next year or so but will use it a few more times to see what I need. I do have a couple of questions for you though.

1. do you know what your compact weighs in at with all the beautifull wood work you have done?

2. have you noticed any saging or weak spots from taking the wall out by the stove top?

3. Any advise for first time builder? this is our first camper but I am handy. I will be looking at Rick's compact in sep. at lake erie but would love some more of your in progress pics if you have them. Thanks and safe camping.

[Phill Roehrs]

Thanks Heath,

I don't have a dry weight on the remodled CJ, but I did add some fairly serious weight with the cabinetry, fridge, 12 volt system, new storage areas. On one trip it weighed just at 2100#s - fully loaded for a long weekend. Since then I've modified my load-out plans slightly - tend to travel with an empty water tank if I KNOW that I can fill up on or near arrival, keep more of the 'yard and camp toys' in the TV, wanting to keep gross weight under 2000#s - the axle rating. I'd like to get a dry weight someday, next time I'm dragging it around town to a shop I'll try to build it into the schedule. Probably up in the 1300# range, empty and dry - 300-400#s heavier than my hull plate says: 100 for the fridge, 50 for the 12 volt, 150 in wood, 25 in fixtures and goodies.

The effect of taking the bulkhead out translated all the way to the rear. The driver's side rear corner of the roof opening, where there is a curb for the boot, seems pushed down, half an inch maybe. No cracking or distress being shown. It's been that way ever since I reinstalled the top and buttoned it all up, two years now. I don't know if any settlement had occured before I eliminated the bulkhead. It seems stable, albeit a little cockeyed at that corner. But it's not very noticeable, and I like not having that bulkhead more than I'm concerned about the slight tilt. Have thought about a 'crutch' or pipe column to 'jack-up' the corner against the countertop (maybe as a hand-rail for the door), but hope to avoid.

As for advice, just dig in and do what feels good. It'll be as much work as you are willing to put in it. I went overboard, took every piece of wire and wood out of it, and probably spent upwards of 300 hours start to end.

One step I missed, being a first timer too, was taking the body off the frame for full frame rework. I inspected it and felt it wasn't necessary - it didn't need real work. Later I realized that that was my only opportunity to really take the frame back to as good as condition as the rest, and should have done it. Should have at least sandblasted it and recoated it. I later 'flipped' my axle and had a new rear bumper built and installed. Those would have been easier and cheaper if I had done them at the same time - with the body off.

Good luck and have fun. Feel free to post specific 'how do I?' questions, lots of help on this forum.

[pjanits]

Very nice installation, it make me think.... hmmmm
One nice thing about this is you don't need it you don't need to lug it around.
Excellent job!

[Heath G.]

Phill, Thanks for the fast answer. I showed my wife the pic's of your compact last night and that might have been a mistake, she loved what you have done. B-4 I showed her that she was going to be happy with just some paint on the doors and drawer front. Thats ok cause I have allot of ideas from looking and all the projects on this site. I hope to get some of them done this winter if I can get it in the garage. When I do get startd I will post all the pics and mistakes. thanks again for the isperation.