Winter Project Hunter Compact II - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-06-2015, 03:41 PM   #15
Member
 
Name: Captain Longbelly
Trailer: Lots
Kentucky
Posts: 56
Got in a few more parts today...so hopefully I will have some time to work on Hunter this weekend

__________________

__________________
KyMoonshine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2015, 11:31 PM   #16
Member
 
Name: Captain Longbelly
Trailer: Lots
Kentucky
Posts: 56
Finally ha a few hours free today to work on the Hunter...I added attached Jacks some time back and have used them the first few trips on the Hunter and love them..so easy to just drop them and be done...





Next I tackled the new exhaust vent...the one I purchased was perfect except it was to thick



So I cut it down to fit




And it looks pretty nice
__________________

__________________
KyMoonshine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-13-2015, 11:34 PM   #17
Member
 
Name: Captain Longbelly
Trailer: Lots
Kentucky
Posts: 56
Next I worked on some of the new electric components...I thought about it a lot and in the end decided to go with a separate 30 amp breaker box and a Battery Tender for the 120v side and a nice 12v fuse block for the 12v side instead of one Progressive Dynamics unit...I like to keep it simple and separate...if something goes wrong I will know what it is and replace it instead of uninstalling the entire unit and sending it in for repairs/replacement...I have used the same set-up in the last two Teardrops I built and it works nicely...I will have plenty of power and it all remains simple...plus with a power inverter unit I would have to cut an opening somewhere and relocate other things in the camper....so I started with the shore power inlet








and worked my way into the new breaker box...I use this same breaker box a lot and it will contain two 15 amp breakers




Thats all I had time for today...but hope to spend some more time on Sunday
__________________
KyMoonshine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2015, 12:57 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
francene's Avatar
 
Trailer: 13 ft Compact II
Washington
Posts: 435
Registry
Looks nice so far, KY.
I've kept my 12V and 120V systems separate, too. Like it simple.

Fran
__________________
francene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2015, 01:46 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
FWIW: The only complete power chassis I have ever had to remove were either: 1) 25+ years old and they were either dead or frying the battery or, 2) Those lovely "American" brand converters used by Scamp until they too saw the light and went to Progressive Dynamics components.


Right now, in my Hunter Compact-II, with a Progressive Dynamics PD-4045, I am using four 120VAC breakers (Main, converter, inside outlets, outside outlet) and 9 fused 12VDC circuits. (Inverter, furnace, water pump, DC outlets #1, DC outlets #2, Lights left side, lights right side, outside light, water tank sensor panel). That way if one circuit develops a problem or is overloaded, it doesn't take anything else out at the same time.


I trade simple for reliability & convenience, but to each their own.
__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 02:34 AM   #20
Member
 
Name: Captain Longbelly
Trailer: Lots
Kentucky
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
FWIW: The only complete power chassis I have ever had to remove were either: 1) 25+ years old and they were either dead or frying the battery or, 2) Those lovely "American" brand converters used by Scamp until they too saw the light and went to Progressive Dynamics components.
I still have the UniVolt in both my Airstreams that are always plugged into shore power and still working 42 years later...
__________________
KyMoonshine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 09:56 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
That's the point I was trying to make, Converter aren't usually something you have to pull out for service. The most common "service" I have done on them is to up grade or replace them to get more capacity and also include multiple stage battery charging capability.


The 1963 Airstream we full timed in for a year didn't even have a converter. But a Big-A$$ charger and an 8D battery did the trick for us. On that Airstream, the concept of a circuit board was still a piece of plywood everything was attached to.
__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2015, 10:03 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
D Davis's Avatar
 
Name: Diane
Trailer: u-haul ct13
Virginia
Posts: 1,000
Smile

Liking the electrical work you are doing, Good Job!
__________________
D Davis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2015, 08:25 PM   #23
Member
 
Name: Totie Fan
Trailer: Tote N Tarry
West Coast
Posts: 81
And it looks pretty nice


Hi: I was wondering what this vent was "to"? Does it go above your stove alone or do you have an exhaust vent with this?
Also, I'm learning a lot from your work so "good job" being so educational about it. Nice pictures.
I tracked down a 50A AC/DC panel, I don't need 50 A but it was like $32 so I got it. I was going to split it into 15/15/20 and hook the interior light/plug up to the 15, the converter to the 15, and an exterior outlet to the 20...and who knows maybe someday that 20 could be useful for an A/C? Then I was going to get a 50A-to-30A and 20A converter plugs so the thing could be plugged in at home or any RV situation. There are I think 10 12V DC screws for the DC fuses. Do you think this arrangement sounds legit?
Anyway my progress is kind of like yours, except you're way ahead since your Hunter is pretty solid and complete compared to my rusty Totie shell which looks like a bomb went off in it, then it caught fire, was flooded, rolled down a hillside, etc. And that's after doing a lot of work on it! Ha. Well we just finished 2 days of sandblasting so that helped, but it's still definitely in the depressing phase.
Thanks for any input.
__________________
Tote-n-Tarry No.2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2015, 08:47 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
I'm very confused as to what you have for a power chassis. You didn't mention how big the converter is in DC amp capacity, but putting it on a 15 amp breaker will let it overheat a bunch, like 100 amps on the DC side and still won't pop the breaker, I usually use a 10 amp breaker on a 45 amp inverter/charger, and that's twice it's nominal max capacity.


Why don't you tell us a name and model number for what you have, or at least a few pics. You need to know what you have before installing or doing any wiring.


There are a number of older converter panels that have been pulled out of RV's because of a propensity of frying batteries. Not a good thing.
__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2015, 10:17 PM   #25
Member
 
Name: Totie Fan
Trailer: Tote N Tarry
West Coast
Posts: 81
(both are new parts)
Power Max PM3-35

Charger Specs
35 amp 3 Stage Charger
KEY FEATURES:
Automatic three-stage battery charging maintains your battery's life with three nominal voltage output models:
* 13.2 Vdc range "float" mode
* 13.6 Vdc range "absorption" mode
* 14.4 Vdc range "bulk" mode
* Electronic current limiting automatically shuts down power during overload or short-circuit conditions.
* Quiet operation in a wide range outputs. Convenient deck mount installation.


--------

AC/DC Panel
120/240VAC, 3 WIRE WITH GROUNDED NEUTRAL MAX.MAIN 50 AMPS MAX. BRANCH 30 AMPS, 12 VOLT FUSE PANEL PN#30507040
RV Panel: UL listed. ALL Galvanized steel construction not plastic
  • Includes 50 amp 120/240V main double breaker
  • Has spaces for 6 additional 120 volt breakers (12 circuits if using the thin twin breakers)
  • Uses square D homeline , cutler hammer, or equivalent breaker
  • Branch circuit breakers are not included, Only the 50 amp main breaker is included
  • If all the breakers spaces are not used you will need to purchase filler plates to fill unused breaker spaces (same type as breakers also available where breakers are sold. This is to protect the live electrical power from accidentally touching.
  • AC distribution side (12 volt) has 15 fuse circuit capacity
  • AC panel rated at maximum 20 amp per circuit and 85 total amps of 12volt
  • use ATC fuses not included standard spade style fuse
  • Does not have a 12 volt ground bar
  • 15 12V bus
__________________
Tote-n-Tarry No.2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2015, 11:59 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Bob Miller's Avatar
 
Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
Posts: 7,912
Sounds like you got some interesting stuff for your $32.


The PM3-35 is listed as being a 3 stage, 35 amp battery charger and, while it wasn't designed to be an RV power supply, should be fine. But I would never use it without a battery connected, as it's open circuit voltage may surge well about what you want to run your DC buss with.


The AC/DC panel doesn't seem to come up anywhere, but there is no requirement to use it's full capacity. I would install and back feed a 30 amp breaker as a main, use a 10 amp breaker for the battery charger and a couple of 15 amps breakers for the other a/c circuits. Even if you add an a/c in the future, and a 20 amp breaker, you will still have enough capacity with a 30 amp main and a 30 amp cable & plug, with an adapter to 20 amp as needed. Basic rule sez that if you have that 50 amp breaker that you have to run extra heavy cable to carry that load, where as 30 amps will always be enough, short of having two ac units.


I WOULD NOT connect the grounds from the battery & battery charger to the ground buss in the dist. panel, but would do those external to the ac distribution box to avoid any possible problems with the DC side and the Neutral/absolute ground in the panel. But that's just me being very cautious.


Sounds like some good parts, but just different enough to warrant some degree of caution.
__________________
Bob Miller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2015, 12:35 AM   #27
Member
 
Name: Totie Fan
Trailer: Tote N Tarry
West Coast
Posts: 81
"Sounds like you got some interesting stuff for your $32."
{{It was just the panel I purchased for good deal, wasn't $32 it was $41 (I 'misremembered' it) and the charger was $89}}

"The PM3-35 is listed as being a 3 stage, 35 amp battery charger and, while it wasn't designed to be an RV power supply, should be fine. But I would never use it without a battery connected, as it's open circuit voltage may surge well about what you want to run your DC buss with."
{{So this means hook up to battery first, THEN plug in charger (based on what you wrote below I will make a 10A plug just for the charger and put it inside the compartment just for that device).}}


"The AC/DC panel doesn't seem to come up anywhere, but there is no requirement to use it's full capacity."
{{Surprised, didn't know that...thanks}}}
"I would install and back feed a 30 amp breaker as a main, use a 10 amp breaker for the battery charger and a couple of 15 amps breakers for the other a/c circuits."

{{Wait, excuse my newbosity but doesn't 15+15+10=40? So let me look at this thing's picture...ah so on the left it's got a 50A "Main" and I can switch that out for a 30 Amp Main? Confused as to how many Amps you suggest here again for the Main?? Please clarify how to split a 30 Amp Main? What if I just did a 10A to charger and 20A to my other stuff--split up, which would be a microwave, a little 110 light and an interior and an exterior outlet. We'd never use it all at once, at most a laptop, a little electric heater, a hair dryer. Would that work? }}
"Even if you add an a/c in the future, and a 20 amp breaker, you will still have enough capacity with a 30 amp main and a 30 amp cable & plug, with an adapter to 20 amp as needed." "Basic rule sez that if you have that 50 amp breaker that you have to run extra heavy cable to carry that load, whereas 30 amps will always be enough, short of having two ac units."
{{By this a/c you mean "air conditioner"...Yes I like this idea better so I don't have to do the monster cable. When I go to an RV park there's these, dunno, 40' or so 5th wheels with leather upholstery and stackable washer/dryers and central vacuums and central air...now that is a 50Amp rig, not a 13' 900 lb Tote n' Tarry!}}


"I WOULD NOT connect the grounds from the battery & battery charger to the ground buss in the dist. panel, but would do those external to the ac distribution box to avoid any possible problems with the DC side and the Neutral/absolute ground in the panel. But that's just me being very cautious." {{Yes, I think specs said there was no DC ground too, but I think it did say it had a 3 way for the Alt Current part, but I could avert that and connect to 2 wires going to drilled-in tap bolt into the chassis and run that as "ground" for both the DC and AC}}

Say thank you for the very thoughtful and very helpful reply. I didn't mean to highjack the Hunter thread -- but probably many people will profit from these pieces of advice. In my case I'm working up from sheer nothingness (a shell) to a workable trailer, I think I just may get there with this help. Thanks again. I'll try to keep my thread on my thread from now on, but majorly-appreciate the advice. Correct any mis-assumptions I made?
Thanks


"Sounds like some good parts, but just different enough to warrant some degree of caution."{{My entire project will be a mishmash, but I do want it to be quality in the end.}}
__________________
Tote-n-Tarry No.2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2015, 01:42 AM   #28
Member
 
Name: Captain Longbelly
Trailer: Lots
Kentucky
Posts: 56
Tote and Tarry the vent replaced the original range hood vent...it's just a flap that you open when using range...no fan or anything

I had some time today and started on a few more items my wife said she had to have to be comfortable in this little Hunter...the first thing is she required an outlet in galley for toaster/coffeepot etc





And she really wanted a microwave...so after some thinking I decided it could really only go one place



So I "roughed" it in today and think it will look decent once I get it trimmed out...



I built some shelves in the closet as well



I also got all the 120v installed and have power in camper again



Tomorrow I hope to start tearing apart the entire 12v side of things and totally rewiring it
__________________

__________________
KyMoonshine is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Campster/Hunter Compact PROJECT WANTED: xmansurfer Wanted: Molded Fiberglass Travel Trailers 5 12-25-2015 03:41 PM
Compact/Compact Jr./Hunter, etc. owners POLL JenPB General Chat 22 03-17-2014 10:31 PM
CA | 1973 Hunter Compact II Project SOLD Doug in Sacramento Classified Archives 7 02-24-2014 12:09 AM
Compact/Compact Jr./Hunter class owners JenPB General Chat 21 06-05-2009 03:10 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:16 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.