Winter Project Hunter Compact II

[Bob Miller]

That's the point I was trying to make, Converter aren't usually something you have to pull out for service. The most common "service" I have done on them is to up grade or replace them to get more capacity and also include multiple stage battery charging capability.


The 1963 Airstream we full timed in for a year didn't even have a converter. But a Big-A$$ charger and an 8D battery did the trick for us. On that Airstream, the concept of a circuit board was still a piece of plywood everything was attached to.

[D Davis]

Liking the electrical work you are doing, Good Job!

[Tote-n-Tarry No.2]

And it looks pretty nice


Hi: I was wondering what this vent was "to"? Does it go above your stove alone or do you have an exhaust vent with this?
Also, I'm learning a lot from your work so "good job" being so educational about it. Nice pictures.
I tracked down a 50A AC/DC panel, I don't need 50 A but it was like $32 so I got it. I was going to split it into 15/15/20 and hook the interior light/plug up to the 15, the converter to the 15, and an exterior outlet to the 20...and who knows maybe someday that 20 could be useful for an A/C? Then I was going to get a 50A-to-30A and 20A converter plugs so the thing could be plugged in at home or any RV situation. There are I think 10 12V DC screws for the DC fuses. Do you think this arrangement sounds legit?
Anyway my progress is kind of like yours, except you're way ahead since your Hunter is pretty solid and complete compared to my rusty Totie shell which looks like a bomb went off in it, then it caught fire, was flooded, rolled down a hillside, etc. And that's after doing a lot of work on it! Ha. Well we just finished 2 days of sandblasting so that helped, but it's still definitely in the depressing phase.
Thanks for any input.

[Bob Miller]

I'm very confused as to what you have for a power chassis. You didn't mention how big the converter is in DC amp capacity, but putting it on a 15 amp breaker will let it overheat a bunch, like 100 amps on the DC side and still won't pop the breaker, I usually use a 10 amp breaker on a 45 amp inverter/charger, and that's twice it's nominal max capacity.


Why don't you tell us a name and model number for what you have, or at least a few pics. You need to know what you have before installing or doing any wiring.


There are a number of older converter panels that have been pulled out of RV's because of a propensity of frying batteries. Not a good thing.

[Tote-n-Tarry No.2]

(both are new parts)
Power Max PM3-35

Charger Specs
35 amp 3 Stage Charger
KEY FEATURES:
Automatic three-stage battery charging maintains your battery's life with three nominal voltage output models:
* 13.2 Vdc range "float" mode
* 13.6 Vdc range "absorption" mode
* 14.4 Vdc range "bulk" mode
* Electronic current limiting automatically shuts down power during overload or short-circuit conditions.
* Quiet operation in a wide range outputs. Convenient deck mount installation.


--------

AC/DC Panel
120/240VAC, 3 WIRE WITH GROUNDED NEUTRAL MAX.MAIN 50 AMPS MAX. BRANCH 30 AMPS, 12 VOLT FUSE PANEL PN#30507040
RV Panel: UL listed. ALL Galvanized steel construction not plastic

• Includes 50 amp 120/240V main double breaker
• Has spaces for 6 additional 120 volt breakers (12 circuits if using the thin twin breakers)
• Uses square D homeline , cutler hammer, or equivalent breaker
• Branch circuit breakers are not included, Only the 50 amp main breaker is included
• If all the breakers spaces are not used you will need to purchase filler plates to fill unused breaker spaces (same type as breakers also available where breakers are sold. This is to protect the live electrical power from accidentally touching.
• AC distribution side (12 volt) has 15 fuse circuit capacity
• AC panel rated at maximum 20 amp per circuit and 85 total amps of 12volt
• use ATC fuses not included standard spade style fuse
• Does not have a 12 volt ground bar
• 15 12V bus
  

[Bob Miller]

Sounds like you got some interesting stuff for your $32.


The PM3-35 is listed as being a 3 stage, 35 amp battery charger and, while it wasn't designed to be an RV power supply, should be fine. But I would never use it without a battery connected, as it's open circuit voltage may surge well about what you want to run your DC buss with.


The AC/DC panel doesn't seem to come up anywhere, but there is no requirement to use it's full capacity. I would install and back feed a 30 amp breaker as a main, use a 10 amp breaker for the battery charger and a couple of 15 amps breakers for the other a/c circuits. Even if you add an a/c in the future, and a 20 amp breaker, you will still have enough capacity with a 30 amp main and a 30 amp cable & plug, with an adapter to 20 amp as needed. Basic rule sez that if you have that 50 amp breaker that you have to run extra heavy cable to carry that load, where as 30 amps will always be enough, short of having two ac units.


I WOULD NOT connect the grounds from the battery & battery charger to the ground buss in the dist. panel, but would do those external to the ac distribution box to avoid any possible problems with the DC side and the Neutral/absolute ground in the panel. But that's just me being very cautious.


Sounds like some good parts, but just different enough to warrant some degree of caution.

[Tote-n-Tarry No.2]

"Sounds like you got some interesting stuff for your $32."
{{It was just the panel I purchased for good deal, wasn't $32 it was $41 (I 'misremembered' it) and the charger was $89}}

"The PM3-35 is listed as being a 3 stage, 35 amp battery charger and, while it wasn't designed to be an RV power supply, should be fine. But I would never use it without a battery connected, as it's open circuit voltage may surge well about what you want to run your DC buss with."
{{So this means hook up to battery first, THEN plug in charger (based on what you wrote below I will make a 10A plug just for the charger and put it inside the compartment just for that device).}}


"The AC/DC panel doesn't seem to come up anywhere, but there is no requirement to use it's full capacity."
{{Surprised, didn't know that...thanks}}}
"I would install and back feed a 30 amp breaker as a main, use a 10 amp breaker for the battery charger and a couple of 15 amps breakers for the other a/c circuits."

{{Wait, excuse my newbosity but doesn't 15+15+10=40? So let me look at this thing's picture...ah so on the left it's got a 50A "Main" and I can switch that out for a 30 Amp Main? Confused as to how many Amps you suggest here again for the Main?? Please clarify how to split a 30 Amp Main? What if I just did a 10A to charger and 20A to my other stuff--split up, which would be a microwave, a little 110 light and an interior and an exterior outlet. We'd never use it all at once, at most a laptop, a little electric heater, a hair dryer. Would that work? }}
"Even if you add an a/c in the future, and a 20 amp breaker, you will still have enough capacity with a 30 amp main and a 30 amp cable & plug, with an adapter to 20 amp as needed." "Basic rule sez that if you have that 50 amp breaker that you have to run extra heavy cable to carry that load, whereas 30 amps will always be enough, short of having two ac units."
{{By this a/c you mean "air conditioner"...Yes I like this idea better so I don't have to do the monster cable. When I go to an RV park there's these, dunno, 40' or so 5th wheels with leather upholstery and stackable washer/dryers and central vacuums and central air...now that is a 50Amp rig, not a 13' 900 lb Tote n' Tarry!}}


"I WOULD NOT connect the grounds from the battery & battery charger to the ground buss in the dist. panel, but would do those external to the ac distribution box to avoid any possible problems with the DC side and the Neutral/absolute ground in the panel. But that's just me being very cautious." {{Yes, I think specs said there was no DC ground too, but I think it did say it had a 3 way for the Alt Current part, but I could avert that and connect to 2 wires going to drilled-in tap bolt into the chassis and run that as "ground" for both the DC and AC}}

Say thank you for the very thoughtful and very helpful reply. I didn't mean to highjack the Hunter thread -- but probably many people will profit from these pieces of advice. In my case I'm working up from sheer nothingness (a shell) to a workable trailer, I think I just may get there with this help. Thanks again. I'll try to keep my thread on my thread from now on, but majorly-appreciate the advice. Correct any mis-assumptions I made?
Thanks


"Sounds like some good parts, but just different enough to warrant some degree of caution."{{My entire project will be a mishmash, but I do want it to be quality in the end.}}

[KyMoonshine]

Tote and Tarry the vent replaced the original range hood vent...it's just a flap that you open when using range...no fan or anything

I had some time today and started on a few more items my wife said she had to have to be comfortable in this little Hunter...the first thing is she required an outlet in galley for toaster/coffeepot etc





And she really wanted a microwave...so after some thinking I decided it could really only go one place



So I "roughed" it in today and think it will look decent once I get it trimmed out...



I built some shelves in the closet as well



I also got all the 120v installed and have power in camper again



Tomorrow I hope to start tearing apart the entire 12v side of things and totally rewiring it

[Bob Miller]

Hmmmm so you are into it for $131, just about the cost of a PD-4045, but that's yesterdays story..... To answer your questions.

You normally hard-wire the converter to the battery so that every time AC power is applied, and the converter is turned on, the battery also gets 12 volts. In short, I wouldn't ever allow the battery charger to be the sole source of DC power, it should always be connected to the battery. Remember, it was sold as a "Battery Charger" not a converter.

Overnight I did remember a problem we have with our Airstream when we full-timed many years ago. It had a battery charger and a monster 8D battery for the DC power. However, we could not use the 12VDC TV, the AM/FM radio or the CB Radio when connected to shore power if the battery charger was ON. Battery chargers may not have a clean output and, in our case, it put a buzz on the DC line. This might also cause some issues with things like computers and phone chargers etc. Watch for it.

Because each branch breaker protects a particular branch and the Main breaker limits the total capacity of the input cable, the added up value of the circuit breakers can exceed the main. For example, you wouldn't use the 15 amp outlet breaker for a 1500 watt electric heater at the same time as the 20 amp breaker for an A/C.

Again, because of the parts you are using, I WOULD NOT connect the DC ground to any ground common to the AC side... period... Set up a separate ground point for all your DC circuits and connect the negative side of both the battery and the battery charger only to that point as well.

Bottom line... if there's any chance you can return these parts, that would be my #1 suggestion. #2 suggestion would to start a fresh thread.... lol.

[KyMoonshine]

Weather got bad here so I warmed up the garage and done a little work...started working on an under seat area A/C and this is what I had to work with



I applaud whoever encased all the 12 volt wiring in spray foam....



So I started digging...since I am replacing all the 12 volt wiring I didn't have to be to gentle



I eventually ended up with this



So I cut out the hole and test fitted it(will trim it out when finished)....I will add a large vent to the outside for the rear hot air and some vents on the bottom for side cooling and metal work to separate the two

[KyMoonshine]

Took a little more time today and finished some more things on Hunter...I installed a switch to turn on the reverse lights to use for outside lights




And while I loved the look of the original 12v lights my wife said they were not bright enough...so I swapped them all out for simple LED lights






I then added some ventilation for the A/C to have sufficient air to sides and top



and last I relocated the pump



This weekend I hope to rewire all 12v and button everything up

[D Davis]

Dear Capt. Longbelly, I had to totally wire my little camper also. I knew very little and had to read a lot. I did not have much money to do this with either. I found the advice of a few key members here invaluable, Bob Miller being one of them. There is a wealth of knowledge freely given on this website. Hopefully once your wiring is done you will not have to do it again.
I can appreciate all the hard work you are doing on your camper and wish you well. Can't wait to see the finished product.

[Bob Miller]

Hey Capt. L, lookin' better every time.
But how/where did you add the outside vents, and a drain for the condensate pan, for the a/c unit?

[KyMoonshine]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

Hey Capt. L, lookin' better every time.
But how/where did you add the outside vents, and a drain for the condensate pan, for the a/c unit?

Bob the vent came today in this huge box....lol










I will try to get time to install it this weekend...the rear of the A/C hangs over the fiberglass part of the shell on the bottom so I installed a pan there to catch the water and drilled hole for it to exit underneath...the rear of A/C will vent directly outside...

[KyMoonshine]

Found a little more time today to run all new 12v wiring





and finished up all the plumbing and sink




and put most of the cabinetry back together



tomorrow I hope to get some more things done

[francene]

Looking good, Ky!
Nice job~

Fran

[KyMoonshine]

Originally Posted by francene

Looking good, Ky!
Nice job~

Fran

Thanks...did a few more things today...

[Borrego Dave]

I like your choice for the microwave location, is it going to have enough room for heat venting ?

[francene]

Really like those light fixtures, Ky. Where did you get them?

Also that's a neat location for the microwave; did you do that or the former owner?

Those original light fixtures sure got corroded! Mine were, too. Better metal finishes these days, so the new lights should look good for a long time.

Keep plugging!

Fran

[Bob Miller]

I don't know if finishes are better, those are 40+ year old fixtures, the ones I took out looked about the same.