Wiring Diagram for 16 ft Scamp w/ Brakes? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-15-2014, 09:46 AM   #1
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Name: Sharon
Trailer: 1995 16 ft Scamp
Virginia
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Wiring Diagram for 16 ft Scamp w/ Brakes?

Somewhere I know I saw some sort of very complicated diagram for the wiring system in a Scamp (which included TV antennas, TV boost, etc).

I'm looking for something relatively straight-forward that includes the "box" that allows you to switch from AC to battery and that also shows what would be needed to hook up an air conditioner (in the "closet" by the door), 2-3 outlets, a refrigerator and the brakes.

Where (in your trailer) is your electrical box located? Since we've just got a shell at this point (with wires that have been cut short and don't connect to anything), I don't really have a point of reference. There are no electrical (or water) inputs on the outside.

Would the box be best located under the back bed? In the closet? Under the front benches/bunks?

What type would I get?

We *might* try to do some of this ourselves, but we also have a friend who's an electrician. If I can provide him with a good, clear diagram of how things are usually hooked up, he could probably help guide us.

Thanks!
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Old 11-15-2014, 09:55 AM   #2
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You are starting new so my suggestion is to hire an electrician to tell you what to do.
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:00 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
You are starting new so my suggestion is to hire an electrician to tell you what to do.
That's the plan, but since I don't think he's ever wired a trailer before, it would be helpful to be able to provide him with some sort of diagram that will show him how things are usually done.

I know there are some wires under the insulation (for the tail lights), but it would also be good to let him know what may be run under the trailer, how they go through the shell to form a 7-way wiring harness, etc.
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:23 AM   #4
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If you start with the central component in a trailer's electrical system, the A/C distribution box/DC converter & fuse panel, most electricians will get about a 99% understanding of what to do next.


I always install a Progressive Dynamics PD-4045 power center in any FGRV I am rebuilding as all trailer wiring (except running lights and brakes) start at that point.
Just showing him/her the literature on a good power center will give a good idea of what to do.


BTW: The input power is usually by a cable permanently attached to the power chassis, that is then pulled out through a hatch.


There are numerous on-line sites that detail running light and electric brake wiring, start with what's on etrailer .com
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Old 11-15-2014, 10:50 AM   #5
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Thank you, Bob!
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Old 11-15-2014, 11:06 AM   #6
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BTW: How things are/were "Usually Done" may not always be the best way when you are rebuilding.


For example, to save money on both labor and material, many builders used common grounds for multiple loads, I always run both a hot wire and a ground for every load and bring the ground wire back to a common ground stud near where the battery/converter are connected.
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Old 11-15-2014, 12:30 PM   #7
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Check out the document center.
Fiberglass RV - Document Center - WiringDiagram_Scamp
Eddie
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Old 11-15-2014, 12:36 PM   #8
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Thanks--I was able to get a clearer print out from that one.
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Old 11-15-2014, 12:52 PM   #9
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I use nothing smaller than 12 Gauge wiring for the AC. The DC works best with 12 Gauge or larger, 10 Gauge and sometimes even 8 Gauge depending on the load and distance. Like, 8 or 10 from the converter to the battery and 12 G for the inside lights, TV antenna amp, water pump. The running lights use a smaller set of wire that you can purchase at places like Tractor Supply, Northern Tools, Harbor Freight and it is color coded for trailers. I like to run this wire under the trailer inside PVC water pipe so it is protected. I have also used old water-hose in the past. The GROUND is one of the most trouble prone connections, I use multiple ground connections to the frame and use dielectric grease and star washer with nut and bolt to get absolutely secure grounding. You will get replys about ground loops with multiple grounds but I can tell you that is nothing to worry about when all you are using the DC for is lighting.
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Old 11-15-2014, 01:13 PM   #10
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That SCAMP schematics is OK as an outline, but:


1.It represents all you needed in 1975 for electricals in a small trailer. Me thinks that a 2014 rewire would include more circuits for more AC loads and lots of DC circuits for stuff like inverters, multiple DC accessory outlets, a digital meter for battery monitoring and lots of wiring for additional LED lights. And ferget the 120 volt fluorescent fixture, it's soooo last century.


2. The electric brake wiring is not only outdated, it is illegal in most states as it does not show a break-away switch or power supply for same as is generally required for trailer of this weight. And even if not "required", it can be a life saver.


And you may only want lighting on the DC side today, but in the future you may want to add stuff that's not yet even invented, so wire wisely and provide extra circuits for future needs. BTW: Most 12 volt USB charging adapters do not like line noise that can occur when using multiple ground points. Been there, done that, and on a dinky pop-up tent trailer at that.


And Last... As it wasn't yet answered; if you are starting from scratch I would suggest mounting your power chassis as close as possible to the battery. If the battery is on the tongue, under the front bench would be a good location.
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