For Sale: Rv gutters - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-22-2013, 06:27 PM   #1
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Name: Benjamin
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Rv gutters

If I buy this is anyone interested in 25 ft for $44. Let me know

http://www.dyersonline.com/eze-off-w...v-gutters.html
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:37 PM   #2
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Benjamin, if no one answers up and you haven't bought it yet... you can get it in 10' pieces from Camping World:

Camping World EZE-Gutter if you don't care about having bright white, the off-white 10' section is currently $14.91

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Old 05-22-2013, 09:04 PM   #3
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They are sold out online. Already tried earlier.

Thanks though
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:33 PM   #4
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We have that on our Uhaul, it didn't fix the leaking windows.
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:36 PM   #5
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Did anything work to stop them from leaking?
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Old 05-22-2013, 09:38 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by mary and bob
We have that on our Uhaul, it didn't fix the leaking windows.
Did it help at all? I have replaced the 2 side windows with new seals and they still leak. Ahhhhh frustrating.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:00 PM   #7
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What did you use for the weatherstrip that holds the windows in place? Did you manage to get a pair of the NOS windows, and depending on what weatherstrip you used, there are two 1/8" holes in the top of the window frame that may be exposed. I installed a NOS window on the left with AS1456 weatherstrip, no leaks. Installed a Scamp jalousie window on the right, and a Scamp rear window, no leaks. Currently trying to find a leak around or above the front window. Also had to fix leaks at the marker lights, stone chip in lower front, at a door hinge, and in the shell seam near the solar panel. I know the leak frustration thing very well. the RV gutter was an early attempt.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:51 AM   #8
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The UHaul side widows are problematic in that they depend on the rubber seal to stop water entry around the entire perimeter of both the window itself and the window frame to the fiberglass, which is not a uniform thickness.

Even the UHaul repair manual shows a guy caulking the weatherstrip. The worst places for entry are on the top of the seal to the body and the bottom seal to the window frame. Any water that gets into the seal will find its way to the bottom, then overflow into the interior. My recommendation is to use black butyl caulk inserted under the seal (I used a Popsicle stick to pry it up as I moved along).
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:06 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
The UHaul side widows are problematic in that they depend on the rubber seal to stop water entry around the entire perimeter of both the window itself and the window frame to the fiberglass, which is not a uniform thickness.

Even the UHaul repair manual shows a guy caulking the weatherstrip. The worst places for entry are on the top of the seal to the body and the bottom seal to the window frame. Any water that gets into the seal will find its way to the bottom, then overflow into the interior. My recommendation is to use black butyl caulk inserted under the seal (I used a Popsicle stick to pry it up as I moved along).
so you are saying my best bet is to get some black butyl caulk and run that on the outside inbetween the camper and the seal. to do this I pull it back with a popsicle stick. should I do it around the whole window? Now should I also caulk around the window in the space between the metal frame and the rubber seal?
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:37 PM   #10
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so you are saying my best bet is to get some black butyl caulk and run that on the outside inbetween the camper and the seal. to do this I pull it back with a popsicle stick. should I do it around the whole window? Now should I also caulk around the window in the space between the metal frame and the rubber seal?
My suggestion is to use the Popsicle stick to gently pry the rubber away from the body or the window frame and insert the nozzle into this space. Squeeze in the caulk in the bottom of the void, release the rubber and wipe off any excess caulk that oozes out.

So basically, you are caulking the rubber seal to the body as well as to the window frame. The caulk works best between two layers, which is why you don't just caulk over the outside surfaces. Use a small nozzle with a small hole in the end - the idea is to inject just enough to fill any irregularities. You will have to hunt for black - the white is widely available for house gutter sealing.
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:50 PM   #11
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The Uhaul window frame that sets in the weatherstrip is 3/16" thick. The fiberglass wall is also 3/16" thick. But weatherstrip that has a 3/16" groove on both sides is not available, or at least I couldn't find any. The original weatherstrip that Uhaul used had one 3/16 groove and one 1/4" groove. The AS1456 weatherstrip is the same except it is not quite as wide as the original. Some people were using the AS1488 weatherstrip but it has both grooves 1/4" so when the lock strip is put in it doesn't tighten the weatherstrip to either the window or the wall as much as with the AS1456. Then the question is; which groove goes where, and does it matter? On our trailer, one window had the 3/16 groove on the window frame, the other window had it on the fiberglass. When I installed the new window I put the 3/16 groove on the fiberglass, installed the window, put in the lock strip, and caulked those two 1/8" holes at the top, and no leaks. Note also that there are different size lock strips available, I used the 789B which was recommended for that weatherstrip. A narrower lock strip would not tighten the weatherstrip to the wall and window as good.
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Old 05-23-2013, 01:54 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
The Uhaul window frame that sets in the weatherstrip is 3/16" thick. The fiberglass wall is also 3/16" thick. But weatherstrip that has a 3/16" groove on both sides is not available, or at least I couldn't find any. The original weatherstrip that Uhaul used had one 3/16 groove and one 1/4" groove. The AS1456 weatherstrip is the same except it is not quite as wide as the original. Some people were using the AS1488 weatherstrip but it has both grooves 1/4" so when the lock strip is put in it doesn't tighten the weatherstrip to either the window or the wall as much as with the AS1456. Then the question is; which groove goes where, and does it matter? On our trailer, one window had the 3/16 groove on the window frame, the other window had it on the fiberglass. When I installed the new window I put the 3/16 groove on the fiberglass, installed the window, put in the lock strip, and caulked those two 1/8" holes at the top, and no leaks. Note also that there are different size lock strips available, I used the 789B which was recommended for that weatherstrip. A narrower lock strip would not tighten the weatherstrip to the wall and window as good.
Good points. As Diane found out, the fiberglass can be of varying thickness, too, so that makes it hard for the rubber to seal.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:05 PM   #13
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I am gonna give the butyl caulk a try before I go with gutters. Thanks you guys are so much help.
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:05 PM   #14
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Good points. As Diane found out, the fiberglass can be of varying thickness, too, so that makes it hard for the rubber to seal.
I think Diane has a factory screw up in that one window area that they cobbled together to get it out the door. In a way you can't blame them, can't hold up production.
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