Wanted, propane valve from fridge - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-07-2015, 11:42 AM   #1
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Wanted, propane valve from fridge

Hi all, I'm on the hunt for the propane bits from a fridge that has died.
Thanks
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Old 11-07-2015, 12:58 PM   #2
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You might want to give us a hint as to the make, model, and year of refrigerator you have. I take it that it is working OK on 120 or 12 volt power.
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Old 11-07-2015, 01:46 PM   #3
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Hey Bob
Actually I'm not too fussy. I have a couple old absorption units I picked up locally which I have been experimenting with, (my idea of fun). I'm thinking of augmenting the propane heater in the fridge with one of those new high vacuum solar collecting tubes, in order to extend run time on one tank of propane. A fully solar Trillium fridge is possible but not very practical, but augmentation is practical. So I'm looking for the propane section off almost any of the smaller absorption fridges in the 75 to 120 Watt range, which means anything out of a Boler or Trillium or equivalent. I can re-jet any of them to match. In full sun, one of those $10 off EBay collecting tubes can easily provide the energy to run the fridge, the trick is controlling it and having a propane backup to take over. Even on a cloudy day those units generate significant energy. I have a few ideas I'd like to try. If I get anywhere with this I will share all the details. Thanks.
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:14 AM   #4
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Hi Doug... Can you provide a link to those tubes. Something that can generate 75 watts of energy for $10 is pretty impressive...


In as much as most RV refrigerator failures involve the cooling circuit you shouldn't have much problem locating dead 3 way refrigerators for free.
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Old 11-08-2015, 10:55 AM   #5
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Wanted, propane valve from fridge

Hey Bob
Here is the EBay add for 10 of them.
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Likely 75W would require at least 2 of them. Inside the fridge is the evaporator which is a vertical steel pipe about an inch diameter which is part of the sealed ammonia water hydrogen system. Welded to the side of that pipe are two 8" pipes, one with the electrical elements and one that the propane heat passes through. I was going to hijack the electrical one or add a forth pipe for heated water from the collector. Then regulate the propane flame from a temp sensor at the top of the pipe. If the water doesn't heat the pipe enough, propane will supplement. I think the challenge is that the forth pipe needs to act as a more efficient heat exchanger than the elect or propane pipes, because the water temp is lower. Top of the pipe normally runs about 80C (175F), so the water temp should be high enough if you can get the coupling. A nice trick would be to run the water circuit at higher pressure to up the boiling temperature (2 atmospheres 28psi would allow the water to boil at about 125C). Tricky though.


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Old 11-08-2015, 04:14 PM   #6
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The ad does mention that they are "Very Fragile"


I'm trying to see why this rather complicated method is better that the very low lp gas consumption method currently in use, especially because you will have to run the LP gas at night.
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Old 11-08-2015, 06:25 PM   #7
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ON THE HUNT!

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Originally Posted by dleverton View Post
Hi all, I'm on the hunt for the propane bits from a fridge that has died.
Thanks
: try phoning Mel at RV services and see what he has there or knows of any parts locations in BC like Auto Wreckers but phone first to see if they have any old units in right now. Mel's number is 604-460-2819 There is a large parts supplier in Cour de alene, Idaho and another in Centralia, WA that have all kinds of parts, I can give you the Centralia phone number if you like and you could phone him and he could mail it to u if they have it, they are real reasonable and sometimes it is fun to go there and dicker with them. Real nice people. Funny the size and population that there are not used parts people in BC for RV parts.
Stude
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Old 11-08-2015, 07:28 PM   #8
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Thank you Stude, I will give them a call.


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Old 11-08-2015, 07:35 PM   #9
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Bob, it is part of a larger experiment and I want to play with the tubes.


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Old 12-26-2015, 03:39 PM   #10
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I wonder if a solid copper bar would transfer higher heat. I think that might be a part of the system for those tubes. Maybe you could just skip the water
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:40 PM   #11
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Bob, it is part of a larger experiment and I want to play with the tubes.


Doug
What's with us us guys always wanting to play with their tubes! I know it will probably get removed but I couldn't help it lol .
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:45 PM   #12
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Hey Ironhinge
It's a good point as copper has a high coefficient of heat, but it would be rigid and the collector would have to be close. With the water the problem is moving it. If there was a circulation pump, then the heat can be transported mechanically by the moving water which would transport much more heat than by conduction (thru water or copper). Buildings used to be heated with water radiators, but the water was pumped. I purchased a couple of copper/solvent heat pipes which I am considering. They are hollow tubes with a pressurized solvent in them. The pressure is fixed when they manufactured it such that the boiling point of the solvent is between that of the collector and that of the sink (the fridge). So the solar collector boils the solvent and adds a lot of latent heat to do it, when the gas gets to the sink it condenses back to a liquid giving up the latent heat. The liquid solvent is transported via surface tension thru groves on the inside of the tubing. They are magic devices and can passively transport a huge amount of heat. I'll let you know how well it works.


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Old 12-26-2015, 04:48 PM   #13
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Hey Mikmay
When I was a kid, I played with vacuum tubes....guess the habit stuck.


Doug
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