wanter for 1977 boler 1700 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-23-2018, 07:09 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Name: Dave
Trailer: boler 1700
Saskatchewan
Posts: 4
wanter for 1977 boler 1700

want to purchase a complete set of cushions for my 1977 boler 1700. also require fresh and grey water tanks. thank you Dave
__________________

Dave Koppelaar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2018, 08:20 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
Posts: 1,393
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Koppelaar View Post
want to purchase a complete set of cushions for my 1977 boler 1700. also require fresh and grey water tanks. thank you Dave
hy not make your own, it is pretty easy to do. check out how the old ones are made and follow their rule. When we make cushions we make sure we use high density foam though may seem to quite firm it doesn't take long for it to soften up. We use this foam even for sleeping on.
Stude
__________________

stude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2018, 09:16 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Name: Daniel
Trailer: '82 Burro 13'
Northern VA
Posts: 136
Agreed.
You can learn plenty on YouTube. I've been watching a lot of how-to videos made by Sailrite. They have good ones on making cushions that could be useful.
__________________
1982 13' Burro
Burro Renovation
Dan-NS27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2018, 12:45 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Name: K C
Trailer: 1971 Trailswest Campster
Washington
Posts: 2,172
Latex foam will last a lot more years than "high density" foam. Polyfoam will only be good for a few years before it goes flat on you.



I would rather have polyfoam than latex because it is lighter. But as I will be using my trailer everyday for the next few years I have to think about longevity. Replacing the foam every few years versus not having to do that.


One local fabric store which will cut to size quoted a price of $205.00 for high density polyfoam for my size of mattress. Way too much money for something that won't hold up much more than a year or two with full time use. The latex will last around 10 years and I can get the same thickness in a firm density of the same size for $275.00 with free shipping from online sources.

But you might want to approach your decision by visiting stores that sell foam for mattresses and lie down on the beds. Then choose what your budget will allow that has the longest life span of use. Do your reading, avoid the hyped up websites.


Some mattress sellers are much like car and appliance dealers...you can bargain on the prices.
k corbin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2018, 04:26 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Name: Peter
Trailer: G30 Elite Class C
British Columbia
Posts: 1,393
Quote:
Originally Posted by stude View Post
hy not make your own, it is pretty easy to do. check out how the old ones are made and follow their rule. When we make cushions we make sure we use high density foam though may seem to quite firm it doesn't take long for it to soften up. We use this foam even for sleeping on.
Stude
e do not use foam for a mattress we prefer spring loaded mattress, queen size as firm as we can get by with then top it with 3" of that new wonder foam that lets your body sink in and fall asleep easily.
stude We have used Polyfoam for years and years and and it does not die in 3 years it just keeps working like the bunny and the drum.
Stude
stude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2018, 08:05 AM   #6
Junior Member
 
Name: Dave
Trailer: boler 1700
Saskatchewan
Posts: 4
Thanks for all the replys! As I purchased my 1700 boler as a real fixer, it came with NO cushions. That's why I was hoping to purchase a set to get started. I did find some good used fresh & grey water tanks in my province . Any help would be good. My wife & I hoping to get this reno done before spring so we can get it out camping. I load up some pics as soon as I get an oppoertunity. I own a Glass shop so hopefully can answer questions on window seals and repairs.
Dave Koppelaar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2018, 08:33 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
John in Michigan's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Michigan
Posts: 1,091
Registry
Dave K,

Last year we removed, restored and re-installed all of the windows in the Boler 17 that we are restoring. After re-installing the first one, we noticed that some of the 40 year butyl sealant between the edge of window pane glass and the sash frame had leached out. What was left was dirt, mildew and moss. So then we started checking the remaining windows by removing the glazing seal, cleaning and inspecting around the edge of each pane. For windows with problems, we broke some of the window panes getting them out, etc. Glass shop re-cut the radius corner panes and re-set new panes using silicone caulk.

Recently however after putting all of the windows back in and leak testing the camper, we discovered that the first re-installed window has the problem (leached out butyl behind the edge of one of the window panes). Can you tell me the best way to remove the glass pane without breaking it? Also, is there any way to remove the pane while the window is still installed in the camper?

-John
__________________
Trillium 4500 Journal
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...nal-81345.html
John in Michigan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2018, 12:49 PM   #8
Junior Member
 
Name: Dave
Trailer: boler 1700
Saskatchewan
Posts: 4
Hi John, The aluminum windows on the Boler should be removed so the old 440 glazing tape can be scraped of the back of the frame & replaced. remove the Robertson screws from the interior trim ring and set the ring to the side. Carefully loosen the window by pushing on the inside & have someone outside using an olfa knife to cut back the glazing tape as you go. clean the old glazing tape off the window frame and fiberglass and apply new 440 tape to the frame starting at the bottom. silicone should not be required. The sliders should be removed & cleaned while the frame is out. This is a good time to clean the slider tracks as well. This is an easy task while the glass is out of the frame. A proper rubber gasket to go around the 3mm glass should be available at a glass shop , sold by the foot. Similar to the factory install. no silicone should be required. 440 glazing tape will also be available at the same place. Bring a sample of the existing rubber gasket on the glass to the glass shop so they can match it up. when I start to re & re all my windows I try to add photos of the job. Good luck & please email me if you have further questions.
Dave Koppelaar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2018, 02:06 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
John in Michigan's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Michigan
Posts: 1,091
Registry
Dave K, thanks for your response! Actually we've already done all of the above and re-installed the windows on the fiberglass body with butyl tape and stainless screws, etc. Even cleaned the tracks and replaced the Hehr glazing seal around all of the panes.

Only problem is that the narrow strip of butyl sealant (2-3 mm) behind one of panes has seeped out over the years. So I guess the entire window needs to be removed again so that the glass pane can be removed and re-sealed.
__________________
Trillium 4500 Journal
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...nal-81345.html
John in Michigan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2018, 05:59 PM   #10
Junior Member
 
Name: Dave
Trailer: boler 1700
Saskatchewan
Posts: 4
John if its the stationary window beside the slider the whole frame does not need to be removed. Simly use a flat blade screwdriver and remove the push in spline on the inside of the window. Next use a small utility blade on the outside and cut the butyl sealant to release the glass. If the butyl sealant has squished out it may be difficult to get the glass out without cracking. I use clear silicone in this case on the frame then set the glass back in and push in the cleaned up window stop. The push in stop always shrinks over time so its a good idea to let it rest in some Hot water so it can be stretched back to proper length when reinstalling!
Dave Koppelaar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2018, 08:41 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
John in Michigan's Avatar
 
Name: John
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
Michigan
Posts: 1,091
Registry
Dave,

I believe it is the stationary frame sash beside the slider (where the butyl that seals the pane has leached out along the bottom edge). I don't have the camper here. Next week I will look at it and take pics. I will see if its possible to cut the butyl with a utility blade in order to get the window pane out without cracking it. But I probably won't attempt this until next Spring/Summer.

As I mentioned previously we found and fixed this same problem in some of the other windows (edit: while they were out), i.e., the thin strip of butyl the seals the individual panes leached out at the bottom edge. The resulting problem is that water slowly leaks through the sash, then drips down to the track and back out through the weep holes.

We also bought 70 feet of Hehr glazing seal (aka window gaskets, push in stop, push in spline) and have been replacing the old as we go.

Thanks!!
John
__________________
Trillium 4500 Journal
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...nal-81345.html
John in Michigan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2018, 07:01 PM   #12
Member
 
Name: Bill
Trailer: 1977 Boler 1300
Arizona
Posts: 36
boler parts

you might want to check my recent post in parts for sale- I can make you templates for seat cushions- mine is a boler 1300 and the post has pics.
let me know if that can help-- good luck; these are grand rigs!
__________________

Bill rv tech is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
boler


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Novice meets 1977 Boler 1700, No Regrets LiseKen Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 10-15-2016 07:08 AM
1977 Boler 1700 Manuals added LiseKen Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers 3 08-27-2016 09:38 AM
1977 Scamp Project Trailer $1700 tractors1 Referrals: Molded Fiberglass Trailers 0 05-19-2012 09:51 PM
1977 BOLER 1700 - $3500 (Everson,WA) francene Classified Archives 4 04-05-2009 11:11 PM
1977 Boler 1700-Everson, WA Greg A Classified Archives 2 03-06-2009 10:52 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:20 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.