Dawn Trailer - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 05-13-2015, 11:47 AM   #15
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 765
My plans include a box on the front. The issue working for clearance for the compressor for the mini-split. As to the wheel well issue:

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Old 05-13-2015, 11:59 AM   #16
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Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,394
Interesting, I assume you are thinking single axle, the weight should allow it. I seem to recall reading that Escape originally thought a single would be fine on the 19 but "the market" demanded/expected double axles on that size trailer.

I am slowly rethinking my bed expectations in a smallish TT. I would love to have a Queen but a couple of Twins might work too. I roll around a lot at night and all the activity is not always appreciated by my bunk mates. Which these days is a cat, but I digress.

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Old 05-13-2015, 12:14 PM   #17
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Name: Dave & Paula Brown
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Posts: 1,295
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
My plans include a box on the front. The issue working for clearance for the compressor for the mini-split. As to the wheel well issue:
This is one of reasons I chose the Lil Snoozy.....no space lost inside by the fender wells, comfortable couch, entertainment area, large kitchen, 41 gallon fresh water over the axle....etc.
Dave & Paula
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Old 05-13-2015, 12:18 PM   #18
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,704
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post

An Escape 19 or 21 to my knowledge both require some level of crawling out or crawling over, not my personal experience except for what I read on this site.

Both Escapes have wet showers, I prefer a larger less effort shower though for us we're happy with camp ground showers.
Your correct the 19' is across the trailer as it is in your current 16' Scamp but on the 21' you can access the bed from the foot of it & from one side - so one party does still need to crawl just not over the other party to get out.... but thats basically why I was asking how you plan to get a full sized bed with access from both sides into a trailer of the width you are proposing.

Yes the Escapes do have a wet bath but they are larger & thus easier to use than what you & I have in our Scamp 16's. You can actually stand to shower in the Escape! Imagine that! LOL The Bigfoot on the other hand does have a separate shower stall but as you say its a heavy trailer full of many other features not found on the lighter class fiberglass trailers.
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Old 05-13-2015, 02:25 PM   #19
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 765
There are lot of trailers that may be better than my old rehashed Scamp 16, but this is my pay as you go. I also know the quality of the components and work going into it. My original intent was to make it fit our perceived needs, keep it as light as we could (failing a little there), keep the weight low (meaning not up high on the trailer as well as a small amount of lbs!) and as near the axle as possible, and keep the tongue weight within 200 lbs, but with better stability. The longer tongue should help the latter, the AC up there hurts a little as does the frame reinforcements and front bath.
I find it hard to regret a little steel where the original frame broke, however.
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Old 05-13-2015, 04:34 PM   #20
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Li'l Hauley
Posts: 4,518
I like the idea of a rear room that is mostly open. In fact, I queried Escape about the possibility of a 19' with no rear bed (or rear anything). It would be a nice space to set up a recliner. But they replied, The bed in the 19’ Escape has storage underneath it as well as electrical components and the water heater. If you were wanting to switch the bed to the front of the trailer we would still need to have the dinette benches at the back to cover up the water heater and electrical cords. So I abandoned that idea.
To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven... --Ecclesiastes 3
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Old 05-14-2015, 05:55 PM   #21
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 765
The back of this trailer will not be open since the two twin beds will be along each side and the necessary storage on the street side and the utilities, batteries, pumps etc.
These will have to be distributed for weight control as I bring the thing together.
I thought I would post some pictures of the Reefer and microwave in the closet by the door.

Also I am trial fitting the mini-split compressor on the tongue,

I really should start a new thread and not hijack this one, but we were talking about the special modifications to the scamp to produce the dawn. I hope that the Hondas take it as musings on the theme.

JD (Red)
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:00 PM   #22
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Posts: 7,070
I don't mind Red.
Norm and Ginny

2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:25 PM   #23
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 765
I am installing the overhead cabinets today. One difference is that I am bonding (and screwing) the oak framed cabinets to the shell to add stiffness. First I cut away the elephant hide insulation so that the framework is bonded Directly to the shell to add stiffness. The end of the cabinet is also screwed and glued to the bathroom wall. Here is the prep work.

This is what they look like with each bonded to the wall and ceiling and to each other as well. This is the first cabinet.
Here is what the driver's side looks like now.

Here is a snap of the street side.

I noticed that the walls and ceiling were stiffened a lot by adding the cabinets and bonding them as well. The cabinets are basically a 12" deep oak beam reinforcing the roof and walls horizontally and vertically. Bonding has made them a structural part of the rig (for better or worse!)
I used Polyurethane hy-bonding sealant and adhesive for the first cabinets. For the last ones I used high strength construction adhesive from Lowes.
The screws I used are aircraft 100* type B sheetmetal countersunk screws with large diameter washers to distribute the loads over moer fiberglass. When I installed each screw into its countersunk hole in the fiberglass I added a dollop of polyurethane Gorilla Glue to seal the hole and waterproof.

The holes were drilled to the minor size of the screw to gove full engagement of the threads without splitting the oak.
After the glue sets the screws are just along for the ride.

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