Not at all about FRVs: Recommend an axe? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 07-10-2015, 07:30 PM   #15
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Gerber makes a small light weight ax that now comes with a knife in the handle. That may serve your purpose for small firewood.
If to are looking to split "big rounds" a 5lb sledge and wedge might be a better choice.
I fed a wood stove for 25+ years...
But cutting and splitting small firewood the gerber might do it for you.
Hope this helps!

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Old 07-10-2015, 07:34 PM   #16
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Whatever you decide, whatever you decide works for you... keep the blade SHARP. I do believe more people have had serious issues/injuries with any kind of blade when it's DULL. More pressure, more effort, than when whatever needs to be cut (tomatoes, cheese, wood). Be safe!

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Old 07-11-2015, 12:00 AM   #17
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Actually, a sharp blade on an axe isn't the ideal.
There is much more to a good axe than that, and a sharp blade may just get you deeper in trouble.
I'm no expert on the topic, but I do recall that a sharp blade is much less important than other qualities.
Tomatoes, cheese and wood all require different tools with different attributes to efficiently do the job.

If you scroll down some, and ignore the Manliness stuff, you'll learn about axes.
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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Old 07-11-2015, 09:15 AM   #18
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Everybody has different preferences and comfort levels with edged tools. The Boy Scouts had the Totin Chip as a card certifying the scout had read, understood and demonstrated the use of the hatchet, knife and wood saw. This basic knowledge saved more than a few trips to the emergency room.
Personally, I can make all the kindling, firewood sticks and general campfire requirements with the following: pair of good leather gloves, pair of plastic goggles, 2, 3, or 4 pound hammer and two or three steel wedges. Dry wood is a given. I also have a good folding saw and a heavy folding hunter type knife or straight blade hunting knife. For splitting dry rounds, the hammer and wedges work for me and they are easy (short) to store and not too heavy.You don't need the big four or five pound wedges, often, smaller old ones can be found at yard sales or auctions, cleaned up and service your needs for years. Remember, when you split a big nasty one you will get an accomplishment rush, and in my camp you then cry out either "who's your daddy" or "who's your momma." It's not a question, it's a declarative statement. Get a 40 year old Boy Scout Manual, it's all you'll ever need live like Jack London.
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Old 07-11-2015, 12:55 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Jack L View Post
The 4# axe I carry with me is a Council brand. Excellent Quality products. One of the brands I sold was Council. Every time I see the movie "Sling Blade" I think of Council and the fine Brush Hooks Council made.
Some folks call it a Sling Blade, I call it a Kaiser Blade mmmm hmmm.....
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:29 PM   #20
Name: Colleen
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Thank you all so much for your advice. I always buy local wood and never carry the stuff from home. Often though, the logs are too big around -- I like to build brief, small fires (and sit close up). So I don't need anything too hefty and want to keep the weight of the trailer down as much as I can. I Like the idea of a Carpenter's Axe, it seems to be fairly versatile -- which I guess is what I'm really looking for. But I think a couple of forays into the BC wilderness will help me figure out what I really need.

Watch out, I may start asking about satellite dishes next. :-) Thanks again everyone.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:54 PM   #21
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Nicest lightweight Axe money can buy.
Estwing Long Handle Camper's Axe
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Old 07-15-2015, 02:51 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Rzrbrn View Post
I had an Estwing rock hammer that broke after about 5 hours of continuous use. I had an Estwing claw hammer that was good for a couple of years, then broke. I have had a number of axes of various makes and sizes. The best is Gransfors Bruks, bar none.

However for light use, as you described, there is no point in buying the very best axe. Just buy a small Fiskars or Estwing, or whatever. However, do not swing the axe. Place it on the wood to be split then hit it with a piece of wood, small wooden baseball bat, etc, as other have described above. Do not hit it or a maul with a steel hammer. That said, also wear eye protection. I know this from experience.
Wow, I have a couple of Estwings with the steel handle. The handle looks a little intimidating, but after decades of use, the hammers and axe are still like new, and thankfully my thumbs have survived as well.
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Old 07-17-2015, 05:33 PM   #23
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That design sounds great, but in practice it's not well respected on forums like - Information on Fireplaces, Wood Stoves, Pellet Stoves, etc. where us full time wood heaters hung out. It may work great on straight grained wood, but when you get something that doesn't split real well it would just twist in your hand and not transfer the force you need. Still a cool idea though and if you have a ton of straight grained wood around it might meet your needs. It would in the NE where I live.

Originally Posted by Ian G. View Post
This design in unconventional but makes total sense. I would love to give it a try. Watch the video(s)
Vipukirves Leveraxe - Official Website

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Old 07-17-2015, 05:40 PM   #24
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I split nearly 5 cords of wood with an x27 (36in) splitting axe. A few comments about it:

- Nice and light, kept good swing speed.
- The blade was very sharp but easily dulled. I had to sharpen it a lot in the beginning as the blade was thin and the metal seemed fragile. But over time as I reprofiled it to be a bit less razor sharp it worked.
- I broke the head of this axe on some nasty wood that was difficult to split. But Fiskars gave me a brand new one, they stand by their products.

This was in the middle of splitting season, you can't see the rest of the stacks behind the trees (I only split 5 cords with an axe, then switched to a splitter, phew!)

Originally Posted by padlin00 View Post
Been carrying a Fiskars X17 or X25, can't get to it right now to check the length but let me know if you want me to. Works fantastic for splitting and cutting smaller stuff like 6 or 8" into kindling. If you want to split real logs you need something bigger.

Robot Check
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:43 AM   #25
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In Belize we often had trees down over the jungle roads. Never carried an axe, far too heavy, but we always had a very sharp machete.

[Ma Chet was how it was pronounced]. While it will not split logs in a conventional North American manner for a fire you certainly can cut up trees up to 18"-24" into fire useful sections very very quickly.

Weights virtually nothing. Now even back in the U.S. of A. I still have our short one ( 18" blade) in the TV just in case.

My nickles worth of comment. However at the 2:1 BZE$ to US $ exchange rate it is only worth about US $.025
Conservation biologist specializing in bats. Now stepping aside from paid $ bat work and just Escaping, painting and mentoring grad students
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:45 PM   #26
Name: Ron
Trailer: 2004 trillium outback 13ft
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My favorite is a small splitting maul, like a little version of the 6-8# ones in stores, but only about 18" long and maybe 2#. No cutting, but great splitting. Serves as a wedge when pounded with a rock or log. Found this in the woods along a remote survey line so probably a surveyors tool.
If you need to cut small wood, a folding pruning saw is pretty good. Also, don't plan to take wood across us/Canada border as they are pretty particular about that.

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