06' Forester - The wires go WHERE? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-24-2012, 05:43 PM   #15
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Ground: The ground on tow vehicles is usually the frame. Just attach your white ground wire to the frame instead of running a new wire all the way from the battery.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:40 PM   #16
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Today I made a good start on the wiring project. I now have a 7 way connector at the hitch. The wire runs through a grommet under the spare tire, and goes along the drivers side (hidden under trim) and up to the dash. I still have to figure out how to connect/route these wires from here, but I have made a good start.

A couple of conversation topics came up in this discussion here. I address them here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
The Neg wire is in your flat connector. It is the one that is all by itself.
The 1st wire is the power wire to your 12Vdc connection in the camper.
Your 2nd wire is the brake wire from the controller.
I took apart my 7 way adapter to discover that the white wire in the flat connector is not actually connected to anything. They ran it a few inches into the loom where it dead ended. This wire was really light weight, and this was probably smart design. Anybody putting significant amps through it would burn it up.

You are possibly wondering why I took apart the adapter. Initially I took it apart to replace the white wire and black wire with 10 gauge. I ended up splicing the wires from the flat 4 to make them a little longer. The longer flat 4 wires made for a cleaner installation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
I thought yellow was universally left brake and turn. Purple is back up.
In my case, the adapter had two yellow wires. This is how it came from the manufacturer. One yellow wire connected to the flat 4 connector, and is for left turn. The other was the center pin in the 7 wire. The center pin should have been purple, but after taking the connector apart it was easy enough to figure out what was going on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Hmmm...I think I'm a little confused- the O.P.'s trailer is a '73, so I'm presuming he's trying to match THAT wiring.....at that time, yellow was extra, and it's still that way with the traditional Bargman connector, which it sounds like he has on the trailer.
The trailer is going to be rewired from scratch. The original wiring was a mess. It was hacked and spliced and taped and whatever else. Rewiring allows me to update to a modern electrical system. My intention is to go with standard wiring colours.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
Ground: The ground on tow vehicles is usually the frame. Just attach your white ground wire to the frame instead of running a new wire all the way from the battery.
I had an old car where every electrical ground was run to the nearest piece of sheet metal and connected with a screw. I was forever chasing electrical bugs in this car. Whenever a circuit failed, it was usually rust at the point where the ground screw was found. The solution was to take the screw out, create a clean connection, and put the screw back. This car has gone to the bone yard, but it did teach me some valuable lessons.

Running a wire to a better connecting point may be a little extra work, but its worth it. All of the wire is inside a single piece of loom anyway.

Derek
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Old 11-25-2012, 07:06 AM   #17
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Hi Derek. The post Donna referenced was my 2012 which is the next generation to your '06. If you have an automatic, you should find a diamond shaped plug on the fire wall near the steering wheel entry point. That's where the clutch master cylinder would be on a manual and can be used for an entry point. Remember to seal it if you use it. Since mine is a manual I had to find an alternate route. I went with a plug way up on the drivers side wall. I am not sure if it is in the same place on the older version. Look for a large wire bundle going through the wall. In my case I removed the wheel well plastic (couple of push pins), and snaked the wires through a new hole I made in the plug and up the inner fender into the engine compartment. Finally, if you have a manual you may want to research disconnecting the hill holder clutch. On your generation Forester it's connected through the brake master cylinder. Raz
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:11 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post
.............
I had an old car where every electrical ground was run to the nearest piece of sheet metal and connected with a screw. I was forever chasing electrical bugs in this car. Whenever a circuit failed, it was usually rust at the point where the ground screw was found. The solution was to take the screw out, create a clean connection, and put the screw back. This car has gone to the bone yard, but it did teach me some valuable lessons.

Running a wire to a better connecting point may be a little extra work, but its worth it. All of the wire is inside a single piece of loom anyway.

Derek
Music to my ears, 'cause this is SO true.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:53 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
Hi Derek. The post Donna referenced was my 2012 which is the next generation to your '06. If you have an automatic, you should find a diamond shaped plug on the fire wall near the steering wheel entry point. That's where the clutch master cylinder would be on a manual and can be used for an entry point. Remember to seal it if you use it. Since mine is a manual I had to find an alternate route. I went with a plug way up on the drivers side wall. I am not sure if it is in the same place on the older version. Look for a large wire bundle going through the wall. In my case I removed the wheel well plastic (couple of push pins), and snaked the wires through a new hole I made in the plug and up the inner fender into the engine compartment. Finally, if you have a manual you may want to research disconnecting the hill holder clutch. On your generation Forester it's connected through the brake master cylinder. Raz
Thanks Raz. Your older posting provided a lot of valuable suggestion for my wiring project. Mine Subaru might be a previous generation, but it shares lots of common traits. The clutch master cylinder plug idea is a good one. I will have to see what I can do with it.

Derek
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:49 PM   #20
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My wiring project is almost there. Three questions:

Raz made the suggestion to use the rubber plug where the clutch would go on a stick shuift. This turned out to be an excellent way to run the wiring through the fire wall. The plug itself is about 2" across. I put a hole in the rubber plug and put the wiring through the hole. The question now: what is the best way to seal things up? Because of the added weight, the plug tends to come out of the hole. Also, there is a hole in the plug itself which probably could/should be sealed up. Suggestions?

I have yet to decide how to run my backup wiring. I have run a fused wire from the battery back to the trailer connector. The wire is 12 gauge and fused at the battery. I am considering adding a relay in paralel with the backup lights to turn the trailer backup light line. Thoughts?

I connected the black power line for the controller directly to the battery. It seems this will potentially drain the battery out when parked. Or will the controller go into sleep mode when the vehicle is not running? Or is the draw on a parked vehicle so low as to be insignificant?
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:18 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post

I connected the black power line for the controller directly to the battery. It seems this will potentially drain the battery out when parked. Or will the controller go into sleep mode when the vehicle is not running? Or is the draw on a parked vehicle so low as to be insignificant?
...

I'm a bit perplexed by the "sleep mode/draw on parked vehicle" language...

Which "black power line" are we talking about- for the brake controller itself, or for 12v power to the trailer battery?

If the latter:
Best practice is to install an inline device like a solenoid that only allows power to flow to the tow when the tug's engine is running.

Francesca
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post
My wiring project is almost there. Three questions:

Raz made the suggestion to use the rubber plug where the clutch would go on a stick shuift. This turned out to be an excellent way to run the wiring through the fire wall. The plug itself is about 2" across. I put a hole in the rubber plug and put the wiring through the hole. The question now: what is the best way to seal things up? Because of the added weight, the plug tends to come out of the hole. Also, there is a hole in the plug itself which probably could/should be sealed up. Suggestions?
Can you use good old butyl putty? Or maybe butyl caulk (sold as gutter sealer).

Quote:
I have yet to decide how to run my backup wiring. I have run a fused wire from the battery back to the trailer connector. The wire is 12 gauge and fused at the battery. I am considering adding a relay in parallel with the backup lights to turn the trailer backup light line. Thoughts?
You could if the trailer backup lights draw a lot of current. Otherwise you could probably just tap into the TV back up lights directly to power the trailer B/U lights.

Quote:
I connected the black power line for the controller directly to the battery. It seems this will potentially drain the battery out when parked. Or will the controller go into sleep mode when the vehicle is not running? Or is the draw on a parked vehicle so low as to be insignificant?
I have the Tekonsha Primus and it seems to have a very low draw when the vehicle is not running. Wiring it direct is the manufacturer's recommendation.
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:37 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post
My wiring project is almost there. Three questions:

Raz made the suggestion to use the rubber plug where the clutch would go on a stick shuift. This turned out to be an excellent way to run the wiring through the fire wall. The plug itself is about 2" across. I put a hole in the rubber plug and put the wiring through the hole. The question now: what is the best way to seal things up? Because of the added weight, the plug tends to come out of the hole. Also, there is a hole in the plug itself which probably could/should be sealed up. Suggestions?
Don't tell anyone but I sealed the hole in the rear plug under the spare with silicone.
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:06 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
Don't tell anyone but I sealed the hole in the rear plug under the spare with silicone.
Your secret is safe with us!

But perhaps not safe from some of us...

Francesca
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:19 PM   #25
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Don't tell anyone but I sealed the hole in the rear plug under the spare with silicone.
I was pondering sealing the holes in the plugs with goop. Goop is not officially a sealer, but if you don't tell anyone I won't tell anyone. The only challenge is that in current winter temperatures, I'm not sure if it will cure properly.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:49 AM   #26
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I plunged a hole in the bottom of a plastic bucket with goop. I think all the different advertised tubes of goop are the same formula. Goop is amazing.
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Old 12-06-2012, 09:56 AM   #27
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I think that goop, silicon caulk, even acrylic caulk would work.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:04 AM   #28
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Come to think of it maybe it was Goop I used??? I know it was a sticky clear rubbery goo.
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