06' Forester - The wires go WHERE? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-24-2012, 09:23 AM   #1
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06' Forester - The wires go WHERE?

I'm working on trailer wiring for my 2006 Forester.

I have purchased a T-one wiring kit. I found where it plugs in, and I have connected it. The T-one is a 4-wire connector. I need 7 wire plus wiring from the brake controller. I have a connector to do this. Now all I have to do is figure out is a couple remaining wiring puzzles. I have figured out where to run the wires inside the cabin. It looks like it will go under the trim easily enough.


Question 1:
The connector requires a wire run from the battery positive and a second wire from the battery negative. What is the best way to run these wires through/around the firewall? I would prefer not to drill. I would also prefer not to run wiring under the vehicle. Suggestions?

Question 2:
The brake controller requires one wire from the brake switch. This switch looks quite different then a standard on-off switch (as was seen on my previous car). Will I be able to splice in here without problems? Thoughts?
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:54 AM   #2
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Derek, maybe you'll find some info in this thread that will help: Subaru Forester Wired and Hitched
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:55 AM   #3
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The Neg wire is in your flat connector. It is the one that is all by itself.
The 1st wire is the power wire to your 12Vdc connection in the camper.
Your 2nd wire is the brake wire from the controller.


Be sure to put a 30amp reset-able circuit breaker on the battery wire. Do it at the battery.

You also have 1 additional wire for the 7 pin connector and that is the back up lights and you really don't need to connect it unless you want to.
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:42 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamourpets View Post
Question 1:
The connector requires a wire run from the battery positive and a second wire from the battery negative. What is the best way to run these wires through/around the firewall? I would prefer not to drill. I would also prefer not to run wiring under the vehicle. Suggestions?
Sometimes there are large rubber grommets for wire bundles coming through the dash panel in the brake area. You may be able to cut a small X in the rubber and push the extra wires through, then seal with butyl putty or similar.

If you are willing to drill, these type of grommets make a very tidy pass through.



I've had good luck running wires underneath inside a protective flexible shield like this: 1/4" x 14 Ft. Protective Wire Wrap. I secure it with plastic zip ties.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
The Neg wire is in your flat connector. It is the one that is all by itself.
The 1st wire is the power wire to your 12Vdc connection in the camper.
Your 2nd wire is the brake wire from the controller.


Be sure to put a 30amp reset-able circuit breaker on the battery wire. Do it at the battery.

You also have 1 additional wire for the 7 pin connector and that is the back up lights and you really don't need to connect it unless you want to.
Ok, so I have a power wire, and a brake wire, and an optional backup wire. One wire remains unaccounted for. lack, Yellow, White, and Blue. Which am I missing.

Also, the t-one connector was very light weight wire. I didn't think it a good plan to count on this as a ground. Am I missing something here?
Derek

PS. Donna. Thanks for the link for the old site. They did a really nice installation. There were some good ideas.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:20 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Thomas G. View Post
Sometimes there are large rubber grommets for wire bundles coming through the dash panel in the brake area. You may be able to cut a small X in the rubber and push the extra wires through, then seal with butyl putty or similar.

If you are willing to drill, these type of grommets make a very tidy pass through.

I've had good luck running wires underneath inside a protective flexible shield like this: 1/4" x 14 Ft. Protective Wire Wrap. I secure it with plastic zip ties.
My issue with drilling is that it can be a start point for rust. I tend to keep cars for a long time. Any thoughts on drilling in a rust-free sort of way?

Derek
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:36 AM   #7
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Ok, so I have a power wire, and a brake wire, and an optional backup wire. One wire remains unaccounted for. Black, Yellow, White, and Blue. Which am I missing.
You are missing brown for running lights. Trailer Wiring Diagrams | etrailer.com

Quote:
Also, the t-one connector was very light weight wire. I didn't think it a good plan to count on this as a ground. Am I missing something here?
Derek
I'd run a separate ground wire, especially if you plan to charge your battery off the black wire. In fact, I'd use 10 gauge or thicker wire.

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My issue with drilling is that it can be a start point for rust. I tend to keep cars for a long time. Any thoughts on drilling in a rust-free sort of way?

Derek
I understand, living the rust belt. You could prime the exposed edge with an artist's brush and primer, then seal it thoroughly on each side with a generous glob of butyl rope caulk. Future archeologists will find it unrusted.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:47 AM   #8
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The ground wire in the 4 wire connector was only intended as a ground for the lights. You will need a much heavier wire for a ground connection to carry the charging line current. It might be easier to run a second seperate wire from a good ground on the TV frame to the ground side of the Boler's battery, with a disconnect plug of appropriate size, just for this ground, near the existing 7 pin plug.

Basic RV'ing Rule #327: You can never have to much ground connection between TV and Trailer
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:21 PM   #9
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Basic RV'ing Rule #327: You can never have to much ground connection between TV and Trailer
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:32 PM   #10
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Basic RV'ing Rule #327: You can never have to much ground connection between TV and Trailer

I agree too however this seams to make for a big debate on this forum.

Also: If your tow vehicle has separate turn and brake signals, you may need a converter to make the lights work on your camper.
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Old 11-24-2012, 01:08 PM   #11
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Also: If your tow vehicle has separate turn and brake signals, you may need a converter to make the lights work on your camper.
Looks like it does. OP will need an adapter unless it is built into the T adapter.
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:53 PM   #12
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Yellow wire is "extra"- usually for backup lights....though most older trailers don't have them, you might consider wiring it up anyway, for possible future use.

Here's a link to a very helpful E-trailer step-by-step installation from 4-way through 7-way:
Brake Controller 7- and 4-Way Installation Kit (ETBC7) | etrailer.com

Francesca
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:03 PM   #13
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Yellow wire is "extra"- usually for backup lights..............
Francesca
I thought yellow was universally left brake and turn. Purple is back up.
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:19 PM   #14
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I thought yellow was universally left brake and turn. Purple is back up.
Hmmm...I think I'm a little confused- the O.P.'s trailer is a '73, so I'm presuming he's trying to match THAT wiring.....at that time, yellow was extra, and it's still that way with the traditional Bargman connector, which it sounds like he has on the trailer.

It's true that on newer trailers yellow is left stop/turn...but unless the OP's trailer has been rewired to reflect the pattern below, his Boler probably isn't wired that way...

NEWER TRAILER WIRING:



Above image source: http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

OLD/ORIGINAL TRAILER WIRING, BARGMAN 7-WAY BLADE CONNECTION: :




Images Source:http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/..._p/vts-364.htm

Francesca
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