13' Boler with WDH - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-02-2010, 10:31 AM   #15
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Exclamation The version sold in the UK (United Kingdom)

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbraunton View Post
so you saying the Golf is tow rated for 3200 Lbs??, I am assuming that is with a Euro hitch that replaces the rear bumper?, or is it with a hidden hitch or similar style???

my owners manual only say 1000Lbs, ....so i am pushing that limit already!!!!
While the car as sold in Europe may have a higher tow rating, Your owner's manual is correct for the United States and Canada. Also, contrary to popular belief, increasing the rating of the hitch components alone will NOT increase your towing capacity.

My Honda Odyssey is rated to tow 3500 pounds. I bought a generic Class III receiver because of Honda's markup on their identical unit. A generic Class III receiver is rated for 5000 pounds but Honda's is marked as 3500 pounds due to their limit. Going generic did NOT increase my capacity.
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:58 AM   #16
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Frederick, I have to respectfully disagree with you. Car companies have their reasons for lowering or eliminating the manufacturer's tow numbers for the US market, but vehicle capability is not one of them.

Having said that, you might get into trouble with your insurance company or the law if you tow more than your vehicle is rated for in the country you are in. That doesn't mean the car won't toew it safely, though.
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Old 09-02-2010, 12:58 PM   #17
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I would agree that an European hitch is fastened more securely to MY car, on tdiclub.com many members have installed them knowing full well that it increases their towing ability

In compairison the hitch I have attaches to the rear tow loop and the side of the spare tire well (sheet metal)

Whereas the European hitch is installed into the frame rails behind the bumper, it actually replaces the metal part behind the plastic bumper

And because of the difference in intimation I can see how it would be a different tow rating
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:45 PM   #18
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You've got that right. I installed a Curt hitch on my Golf TDI. I really wasn't too impressed with the installation. I much prefer the hitch on my Scion, which is also a Curt brand hitch... but all of the bolt holes are already there. No bolts through sheet metal.

The Euro hitches are great. You dont get the Americal-style receiver, though. Just a ball on a goose neck... but the hitch is very sturdy. I almost bought the Euro hitch for my Scion, but it turns out that it doesn't have a higher rating than the US hitches, so it didn't matter. If I had it to do over again with the Golf, I would buy the Bosal hitch.
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Old 09-02-2010, 09:35 PM   #19
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yeah, but at the time of install a curt hitch was something like 150 bucks, and a bosal is 400 plus............

i might re-enforce the sheet metal side of the hitch though, make some kind of backing plate out of 1/4 metal to beef it up a bit, I am going to see how much it all weighs when i get everything loaded,

On a progress report i got the door all stripped, after some rusted and stubborn bolts on the hinges, ...had to cut them off with a grinder, ........

time to split the door tonight, and then bend the aluminum frame tomorrow
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:55 PM   #20
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I just noticed your original question about weight distributing hitches. Having owned both a 70’s Boler and a (now) 1980 Trillium 4500, in my opinion the frames on these trailers were of similar structure, though it seems to me that the Trillium has a slightly better overall robustness to the frame, but not much.

Here is what the TrilliumRV website has to say about weight distributing hitches on the vintage Trilliums (Don’t use them!) :

“Weight Distributing Hitches
In the 70's & 80's, many of the small cars had a tow limit of 1,500 or 2,000 pounds. As a consequence, most of the fiberglass trailer manufactures were under pressure to keep their units under this weight limit. As a result, the steel frames were designed to carry only the weight of the trailer. Weight Distributing (WD) hitches place a great deal of extra stress on the trailer frame. Do not use a WD hitch on vintage Trilliums. The new generation Trilliums have a heavier duty frame, and can use a WD hitch with a bar rating no greater than 350 pounds. However, anti-sway bars can be used on all Trilliums. (WD hitches do not have an anti-sway function.)
It should be noted that, if the trailer is loaded properly, anti-sway bars should not be necessary. Hitch weight should be a minimum of 10%, measured at the coupler, not under the front jack. (Range: 150 - 200 pounds; heavier is better than lighter.)


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Old 11-08-2010, 09:43 AM   #21
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Good info Rick. I had not heard that before. I have often wondred about the changing of the weight distribution in regards to the negitive impacts it *might* in some cases have on the tow vechile but had not considered the trailer itself.

I don't use one but I have noticed a number of people putting weight distributing hiches on Subaru's even though there manual states not to. I have often wondered why Subaru does not want them on their cars and wonder if it has something to do with the fact they are all wheel drives and if perhaps the change in the weight distribution impacts that function in some way. Anyone know what the actual story behind Subaru's not allowing weight distribution hitches?
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Old 11-08-2010, 10:55 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Good info Rick. I had not heard that before. I have often wondred about the changing of the weight distribution in regards to the negitive impacts it *might* in some cases have on the tow vechile but had not considered the trailer itself.

I don't use one but I have noticed a number of people putting weight distributing hiches on Subaru's even though there manual states not to. I have often wondered why Subaru does not want them on their cars and wonder if it has something to do with the fact they are all wheel drives and if perhaps the change in the weight distribution impacts that function in some way. Anyone know what the actual story behind Subaru's not allowing weight distribution hitches?

The best way to answer this question is a brief description of what WHD hitch does. It takes some up to all the weight off the rear wheels of tow vehicle. That weight is then carried by the trailer frame, axle and suspension along with the front of the tow vehicle. The extra weight on the trailer frame and suspension can overload the axle and tires. In the case of a small car like Subaru the front tires can easily be overloaded. The chances of blow out of either the trailer or the front wheels of tow is increased.
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:56 PM   #23
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Thanks Byron that makes sence.
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:45 AM   #24
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Here is a posting from the FAQs in Trilliumrv.com:

Question: Do I need to use a weight distributing hitch on the Trillium?

No - With less than 200 pounds on the ball, there's not enough weight to distribute. Car weight ends up being transferred back to the trailer; and the frame is not designed for this.

If your trailer is still being made, I would check with the factory before installing a WDH, as for Bolers, etc, I would think 13 footers would not need one.
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Old 12-13-2010, 02:11 PM   #25
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If a 13 footer has too much tongue weight, this can usually be solved by relocating cargo or other items in the trailer. My Scamp had a TW close to 180 pounds when I bought it. I removed the battery from the tongue (will relocate to the rear in a vented battery box at some point) and I make sure to pack our cargo in such a way that the tongue weight is down to 130 pounds or so. This makes for a much more comfortable ride in the car, and isn't stressing the hitch and coupler as much.
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Old 12-14-2010, 06:52 AM   #26
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How true Roger C H, WD hitches are only needed to exceed the 350 lb. limit of a class II or as in my case the min tongue weight is 250 lbs. 10% according to the mto web site and the car suspension has a 200 lb. limit according to Toyota without it.
You are so right mcbrew it is all about balance in trailers as in life.
Class III hitch for 2” receiver combined with WD system the dealer says (not mto) gives us 400 lbs.; 200 front and 200 back. Hitch states more but our car suspension cannot support more without modification. We do not need to pay extra to pull any trailer under 2000 lbs.
I do like having trailer brakes though on any load over 800 lbs. but again that is for my safety not law.
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:15 AM   #27
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Byron Kinnaman you are right about transfer of weight; if the WD hitch is not correctly adjusted it can put undue stress on the front of vehicle. Never thought about the stress WD would place on the front tires; if incorrectly adjusted. Good point!
Rich G will have to read more to check on spring bar ratings and the effects. Personally I requested 400 lbs. and do have anti-sway bar.
It can be noted that the Equal-i-zer brand slides on the springs and so includes the anti-sway function; also a unit is made for Colman trailers at 350 lbs. that uses friction pads and slides on trailer tongue by a different company.
P.S. my trailer is a 17', so not the same requirements as a smaller 13' unit
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:45 AM   #28
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Rick G the site says Quote (1500 to 2000 lbs) but wouldn't any older trailer at 17' be over that without and lot of mods. The weight of a Trillium 4500 maybe over? Is the 4500 17' ??? If it is heaver than 2000 lbs. it would require a Class II hitch or 'light duty' version of the wd with custom Class III receiver to pull.
Did see a brand new 16' 'super ultra light' at dealer that was 1600 lbs. dry but that is unusual and its flat front made it harder to pull at hyway speeds than the 17' boler.

P.S. Body twisting of the cars seems to be the fear of WD and unibody; Our car is unibody the custom hitch is fastened at the back and 2" center tube snakes forwad along bottom to be fastened again. This design lets us use a Class 3 hitch.
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