13' Scamp Dexter Torflex Axle #10 Considerations - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-20-2014, 03:24 PM   #1
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13' Scamp Dexter Torflex Axle #10 Considerations

I am currently having some axle work done on my 1982 Scamp 13 footer. My trailer guy told me something very interesting. He said that while the Dexter #9 axle may have been rated up to #2200, that the Dexter #10 Torflex can be customized to anywhere between #2200-3500. He also recommended a sway bar. I thought that it was interesting that Dexter can customize the weight. I was afraid that a #3500 would never load properly, so I went in at #2400. The cost difference wasn't a concern to me.

Any thoughts?
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:10 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Str8781 View Post
I am currently having some axle work done on my 1982 Scamp 13 footer. My trailer guy told me something very interesting. He said that while the Dexter #9 axle may have been rated up to #2200, that the Dexter #10 Torflex can be customized to anywhere between #2200-3500. He also recommended a sway bar. I thought that it was interesting that Dexter can customize the weight. I was afraid that a #3500 would never load properly, so I went in at #2400. The cost difference wasn't a concern to me.

Any thoughts?
Great choice since that gives you 10" brakes instead of 7s.
Note...early Scamp13s were equipped with leading arm 1200# axles, later to be switched over to 2200# axles.
My Scamp13D has a trailing arm 2200# axle. If I ever change it, I would do as you did , only I would go to a Zero with a 2600# rating in order to gain a couple of inches more clearance and the 10" brakes.
When changing from leading arm to trailing arm or from the #9 to the #10, I would measure the arms and check to be sure that the spindle ended up in the stock location in the wheel well.
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:15 PM   #3
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Yeah, I did get the electric brakes put on. The trailer company said that it would be wise, even if I didn't rig the vehicle right away (costly on the wiring side). They are also considering switching to a trailing configuration (and checking with Dexter on leading) and switching brakes.
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:29 PM   #4
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I would tow the Scamp before you invested in a sway bar.
Sounds like your axel guy is over selling you.
If you can't tow it without any sway you have a problem that needs to be corrected.

I just had the axel replaced on an 82 and my axel guy told me it would require to much modification because of the dropped floor in the front.

He's replaced 2 other axels for me and everything was satisfactory.
So he installed another trailing axel.
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:53 PM   #5
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My axel guy was worried about the dropped floor as well. I really gave him a lot of room to make improvements to the frame. He actually chose a very conservative route, opting to not change a lot of things that I suggested. He just felt strongly that the sway bar would be good here in Montana. There are some extremely high wind passes and mountain roads with drop-off shoulders. As he put it, if a tire drifts over an edge, you will want to get that trailer back in line without tipping it. So I assume that is more about the ins and outs of Montana driving (as I plan to puts several thousands of miles on it in Montana alone).
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:18 PM   #6
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If you replace a #9 with a #10 just be aware the perch is wider on a #10. That comes into play because you order the axle with outside perch dimensions but you line the axle up on the inside of the frame rail. If you use your #9 outside perch dimensions to order the #10 the perch won't line up with the inside of the frame rail which causes several issues.
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