14" rims on Escondido Burro 17? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-05-2011, 01:47 PM   #1
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Question 14" rims on Escondido Burro 17?

Anyone here successful in running a 14" rim and 205mm. width tire on a 17 Widebody? It looks to me that the 4" offset inboard may be pushing things a bit for clearance. I also don't know about the travel of the torsion axles but just a swag that two inches additional diameter might work as it's only an inch additional hgt really? I ask because I think the load rating per tire on the C-rated 13" radials does not add up to the 3Kibs. on the door plate. Axles are presumably original to 1998 production if the projected retention over time of full travel has some bearing on the issue. Please help me as I know just enuf about this to get in trouble.

On the wdh front, I purchased a Progress Manuf. E2 rated 4-600# tongue wgt. as the second order lever method of weighing indicates 402lbs. on the tongue with full giant propane tank and house battery in place. I think less ballast in the propane cylinder and a full clear water tank (behind the axle) would tend to reduce the TW but I don't intend to roll that way so think 400+ is the lightest the tongue is ever going to be once there's some food, clothes and bug spray in there.

jack
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Old 04-05-2011, 10:42 PM   #2
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Jack:
I have for several years used 14" wheels and tires with complete success. The original 13" setup did not seem to me to have much margin for error.

The wheels are MB Series 72 alloys, 5.5" with 0 offset and 1900 lb maximum capacity. The tires are Duro 205/75R14 (radials). Model DS 2100. These tires have been very good, and the setup has reduced the previous uneven wear drastically. The clearances to the inside with this combination increased by 1/4" and there is no scraping evident at all. The closest the tires come to the wheelwell is in front, but any shift caused by braking would then just nudge the axle backwards if anything. Not a problem.

I do not use wdh (I like to have the rig pivoting freely around the hitch ball) but then again I have placed the two batteries inside the trailer just behind the wheels. The tongue weight is usually around 275 lbs, just the way I like it, between 8 and 10% and the rig is leveled by an airbag/compressor setup in the rear on the Odyssey. Tracks like a dream.
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:23 PM   #3
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Much obliged, Per. I'm wondering if the more common 6" rim would also work.

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Old 04-06-2011, 08:00 PM   #4
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When I needed tires last year I also wanted to move up to 205/75/14C as that's just much more common than the stock 185/80/13D. But on my trailer, there isn't much room, maybe less than half an inch, between the inside of the tire and the wheel well, on the curb side of the trailer. On the driver's side there's plenty of space. And on both sides there's plenty of space height wise. Since I was ordering online, I didn't want to deal with a potential return, so I just got the stock size. I got the Loadstar bias ST185/80/D13 which is 1725lbs @ 65psi.

Next time I would like to try moving up to the 14" size, perhaps I can find a used set locally to see if I have any fitment issues.
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Old 04-06-2011, 10:52 PM   #5
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I had it. I had been successful in running a 14" rim and 205mm a year ago but now I am using a different and new model.
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Old 04-07-2011, 04:37 PM   #6
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Thanks for the headsup, Thomas. I'd better take a look at the passenger's side wheelwell as only looked on left side. The wonderful assymetry of Burro toolmaking and layup? or maybe needed more room in the shower?

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Old 04-07-2011, 06:32 PM   #7
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The gounda test on my 98 indicates that Thomas is correct about the shrunken wheelwell on the starbd side (at least on these late model Escondidos). I have GY Marathon 185/80R13s on zero offset rims which produce a gap of 30mm (about 1 3/16") between tire sidewall and and the outer wall of the right side wheelwell. This may be enuf I think as there's only 20mm difference in section width (about 13/16") between the current 13 and the projected 14. With zero offset on the centerline, that's only 10mm additional (about 3/8"+) coziness with the side of the wheelwell. Puts the 205 sidewall about 3/4" from the glass wall. Wonder if that's enuf? Plenty of clearance to port.

No cloud without a silver lining: while inchworming my way out from under the rear bumper I noticed I have bumper mounted stabilizers which actually work. Could use a bit of lube but who doesn't? Won't need the stackajacks. I wonder what I thought the bolts atop the bumper were?

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Old 04-08-2011, 02:08 AM   #8
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Jack, I would think you have enough space then, with 20mm sidewall clearance on the 205's you should be OK. I have less space than you do on my trailer, clearly there is some degree of build variation from unit to unit.
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Old 04-08-2011, 05:52 PM   #9
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Tom, I think it's entirely possible that the sizing of the wheelwells was intentional as space at a premium in the showerpan on trailers having such. It's also possible that the guys who made left and right hand plugs and molds didn't speak to each other or were indifferent to mensuration and big on freeform. I'm going to Eastern Marine tomorrow; the best deal there on Marathon st205/75r14 with painted rims is 130 a copy. It's possible I also will stay with the 185s, purchase two with new rims and keep the ones on the trailer as spare and spare spare. I have no use for the junkyd rim and weather-cracked "P' tire of the current spare.

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Old 04-09-2011, 06:47 PM   #10
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Well, they're on there and I have perhaps 5/8" to the wheelwell wall on the right side. I certainly didn't gain anything as what Eastern Marine is calling zero offset wheels don't seem so to me as the measurement sidewall to hub surface differs outside to inside. They claim if not marked they're zero offset. Also one of the three tires purchased was an early '09 according to the DOT code. Others were same week 2010. They claim to sell a lot of tires but here's one that's two yrs. old in the warehouse. Of course, if they were bicycle tires they'd improve with some aging to the rubber (not kidding about this), particuarly with sewups. Plus 10$ a copy for Pep Boys to balance after both Sears and JustTires attempted to rob me.

Looks like my E2 wdh will work out and allow me to use and stow the rotating wheel jack on the tongue. Work that out tomorrow. So far I have done very little cosmetic work inside except for covering the awful melamine board doors and locker lids with colorful MBA vinyl. I'd like to change out these for something lighter (1/2" Sintra or maybe even phosphorescent Plexi) but for right now it's cheap and cheerful. Both Dinette tables should be replaced. I'm going with birch plywood and a wood-grain laminate for the front. For the rear, I'll use the current melamine bd (which is in pretty sad condition) as the filler for the cushions for the time being as neither of us feature playing at day/nite conversion on that end. With the wdh and new rubber, I'm right at 6K$ trailer and improvements.

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Old 04-09-2011, 06:49 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by rabbit View Post
With the wdh and new rubber, I'm right at 6K$ trailer and improvements.

jack

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Old 04-09-2011, 07:45 PM   #12
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Hi Donna. I hope you're right.

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Old 04-10-2011, 04:09 PM   #13
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E2 installed today. Not so difficult altho I didn't have the 1 7/8" thinwall socket that Progress Manuf. sells you for 60+ dollars so's you can nail down the ball to the hitchhead to 450 ft/lbs. if you've also a torgue wrench equal to that. Couple of long Rigid pipe wrenches and a piece of aluminum pipe for a cheater and I think I/m snug enuf and doubt that lock washer is going to allow anything to rotate. Left side stowable roller jack had to come off; it was joined to a welded base plate with a giant circlip and I just happened to run into my little bitty snap ring pliers just as I was about to give up and pry the thing off with a couple screwdrivers. I had hoped it would rotate outboard of the el-bracket of the E2 but no joy so goodbye. Does me no good on my sloping driveway anyway. I could have set the coupler to bracket spacing as short as 27" and avoided the rollerfoot jack but I was a little afraid of the stiffness of the spring arms over the minimum rec. distance. Got the 4runner back on a level footing. We're going on a one-niter shakedown cruise 29 April so I still have some work to do. So far the rear window leak fix has stayed fixed, AC, tv antenna, gas range and Atwood furnace all work like a charm. I wish I understood the water pump and water heater and the Dometic 3-way but today was just barely sufficient to the evil thereof (tools all over the driveway) without downloading more stuff to read by flashlight while searching for valves and switches.

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