16 foot long kayaks on top of TV

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by VicCT

Wow, thanks everyone!
Yes, I do have a 2008, and it does not have a third row.
Just spoke to trailer guy. I should say up front that the dealership service department referred me to him, and kept saying "why don't you just go to -----? That's where we send most of our cars anyway." Trailer guy says the curt hitch was designed by the same engineers Toyota uses, and is specific to the vehicle. It's what he installs on Rav4's that the dealership sends him. The dealership seemed unwilling/unable to even deal with me. I am now completely confused. I will call a different dealership and see what they say. And is it true the Totota hitch is class II only? Why is this so hard?!

A class II hitch is rated to handle up to 3500lbs so thats more than enough to tow a Scamp 13' or a Scamp 16'. The RAV4 V6 for 2008 is if I am not mistaken is only rated to tow 3500lbs so no surprise that the vehicle manufacture is only offering a hitch up to that rating.

Your experience with the dealer is pretty well the same as others including myself, have experienced at other brands of car dealers. If the vehicle didn't come from the factory with a hitch installed then they send the vehicle to a hitch shop to have one done after the fact. Installing hitches is a bit of a speciality so they probable don't feel it is worth training their staff to do it.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by VicCT

So I think I should be fine - - my tow capacity is at least 2000 pounds, and that is likely conservative.

If we ever upgrade to a 16', I will upgrade the hitch.

Thanks everyone!

Ok so I am confused. Is your new RAV4 a V6 or a 4 cylinder? If a V6 its rated for more than 2000 lbs if a 4 cylinder its rated for less....... what does your manual say.

Regardless with a Class II hitch you would not need to upgrade to a Class III hitch to tow a 16' Scamp - I pulled a 16' for 6 years with no issues with a Class II hitch as the trailer weighed in loaded at 800lbs under the Class II rating.... but as has been stated if you only have a 4 cylinder then changing the hitch isn't going to change your vehicles tow rating.

[Glenn Baglo]

My recollection is that she has a 2008 RAV4 V6, same as me.
The reason I opted for a Class III hitch, which Toyota didn't offer as OEM, was that I could use a WDHitch with Class III and couldn't with Class II. The RAV4 is 4WD but most of the time the front wheels are getting the power. The WDH would transfer weight to the driving wheels.
My Toyota dealer brought an after-market installer into their shop at the dealership to do the install prior to me getting the vehicle ( new ). The bonus was that it cost about 2/3 what the OEM hitch cost ( and that included brake controller install which was extra with OEM ).
My RAV rear end dropped 2" without the WDH. The WDH was installed such that it brought the rear end back to level ( no more ).

So, indeed, I could tow my 17B Escape ( for instance ) without a WDH, and I have for short distances, but there is a significant improvement in ride and security when using the WDH.

Believe me, I would rather not have to lug the WDH to the receiver and hook it up, if it wasn't worth the effort.

[Glenn Baglo]

Looking back, I have no idea which RAV4 the OP has bought.
Doesn't change anything I've said, but could be huge for the OP.

[VicCT]

I have the v6 with tow prep. I said that about the 2000 lb capacity because, as Francesca pointed out, the v6 without tow prep is rated for 2000 lbs. If we assume the increase with tow prep package to 3500 lbs is due solely to the extra hitch attachment points with the OEM hitch (an extremely conservative assumption), I still have at least 2000 lbs capacity with an aftermarket hitch.

[Jared J]

The only hitches I've ever heard of that depart vehicles with some frequency are factory dodge pickup receiver hitches. If these aftermarket hitches were falling off, you would hear about it, and they wouldn't be in business. Me, I won't own a class II hitch, but each to their own. Class III has more and stronger accessories (bike/cargo racks/etc.), and will work on any vehicle most people own, so you don't have to have two of everything for different size hitches.

I've been told the same thing about the dreaded aftermarket hitch on my subaru...you know, the one that held the rear wheels off the ground when the bike rack hung up (more than once, with no damage to the rack either, remember the class III thing?), yet apparently the connection is so awful, the tiny trailers it's rated to tow will rip the back of the car off?

Buy whatever common brand you want, check the bolts for security, and check it for severe rust once in a while, and forget about it the rest of the time.

[MCDenny]

Originally Posted by Carol H

Seriously not even the 4 plug hidden in the rear area that the harness plugs into ? What year was that?

Nope. 2007

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by VicCT

I have the v6 with tow prep. I said that about the 2000 lb capacity because, as Francesca pointed out, the v6 without tow prep is rated for 2000 lbs. If we assume the increase with tow prep package to 3500 lbs is due solely to the extra hitch attachment points with the OEM hitch (an extremely conservative assumption), I still have at least 2000 lbs capacity with an aftermarket hitch.

Well as you have said previously the dealer has confirmed based on your VIN that your vehicle does have the tow prep package from the factory - if your going to believe anyone it should be them as they have the ability to call up the details of your car on the manufactures computer to be able to see what the vehicle actually left the factory with - something no one here can do for you

If the dealer didn't believe that by installing the hitch and by using the hitch installer they have suggested that you use that the vehicle was not capable of giving you the 3500lb tow cap using that hitch, I am pretty sure they would tell you!

As per the link supplied by Francesca there is *more* to the factory prep tow package than hitch attachment points. With a Class II hitch & the tow package you would indeed have a 3500lb towing capacity. With that hitch you should have no safety issues pulling a 13' Scamp or a 16' for that matter. Neither is known to be overly heavy on the tongue so not likely a WDH will be needed. If stowed correctly a tongue weight in the 250lbs range on the 16' and one in the 200lb range on the 13' should give you a solid tow. If you think that your future needs will include a 17' such as a Casita, Escape, Parkliner or Bigfoot to name a few, then going with the Class III hitch right off the bat to accommodate a WD might be a wise investment as they all more often than not have much heavier tongue weights & the RAV4 has been know to squat in the rear with those heavier weights. If you went with the Class III hitch you would avoid the need to change out the hitch at a future date to accommodate the WDH (it will not give you extra towing capacity) but it would be IMO a good bet its not really necessary with your current choose of trailer.

I do BTW appreciate that getting to the bottom line on what hitch and wiring you really need to be safe on some of the smaller tow vehicles can be a little frustrating and confusing. Been there done that! Was very very happy that discover my latest tow vehicle only required a $15 harness adaptor for the brake controller that took less than a minute to plug into the prewired cab and it was all good to go.

[Francesca Knowles]

Click to enlarge picture below of receiver tube on Toyota OEM hitch- looks like 2" to me, if that's what y'all are kickin' around re. bike racks, "classes" etc.

Source

[VicCT]

Spoke with Toyota customer service. They said they can't opine on tow capacity with an aftermarket hitch, but the hitch manufacturers are motivated to ensure their hitch performs up to the rated capacity. They recommended going with the advice of an eatablished and reputable hitch installer.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

looks like 2" to me, if that's what y'all are kickin' around re. bike racks, "classes" etc.

I am confused as well in regards to the worries about bike racks etc. Have two very good bike racks - a Yakama & Kuat and a both built to work on a Class II hitch and both came with built in adaptors for a Class III as well. Both racks have been used a lot on Class II hitch as well as a Class III and one of them carries up to 4 bikes some of which are worth more than my trailer on many occasions without any problems on both hitches. So one doesnt actually need a Class III hitch in order to get a nice solid bike rake.

[VicCT]

I am actually looking to install a spare tire bike rack on the rav. My thule t2 hitch rack won't fit with the side swinging read door, I am told. I was just concerned about clearance between the bikes and trailer. Someone brought up overall payload with bikes and kayaks on the car, an issue I appreciate needs to be considered. But I don't need to carry a bike rack on this hitch.

This thread covers so many topics! Lots of info, I hope it helps others as much as it has helped me.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by VicCT

I am actually looking to install a spare tire bike rack on the rav. My thule t2 hitch rack won't fit with the side swinging read door, I am told. I was just concerned about clearance between the bikes and trailer. Someone brought up overall payload with bikes and kayaks on the car, an issue I appreciate needs to be considered. But I don't need to carry a bike rack on this hitch.

This thread covers so many topics! Lots of info, I hope it helps others as much as it has helped me.

Yes the issue of the vehicles total pay load as well as the issue of tongue weight needs to be considered when adding bike rakes and bikes to a hitch mount. Some mountain bikes can weigh a lot and when you add more than a couple along with the racks weight they can put you over the specs. I had a 4 bike Yakima once that was so heavy I couldn't install it into the hitch without help.

[MCDenny]

Originally Posted by VicCT

I have the v6 with tow prep. I said that about the 2000 lb capacity because, as Francesca pointed out, the v6 without tow prep is rated for 2000 lbs. If we assume the increase with tow prep package to 3500 lbs is due solely to the extra hitch attachment points with the OEM hitch (an extremely conservative assumption), I still have at least 2000 lbs capacity with an aftermarket hitch.

Package includes extra radiator capacity and a power steering cooler. The Toyota hitch has quite a complicated attachment system and costs a lot. The aftermarket ones (all made by the same company BTW) bolt on with four bolts through existing holes in the rear body structure. Mine worked fine over probably 20,000 miles towing a 2850 # camper and a 2500# boat.

[MC1]

Whether you are towing a Glass Egg or an other small TT the challenges seem the same.

One of my on line pals solved his kayak/bike transport this way.

[Jared J]

If the class II Toyota hitch is actually 2", so be it. That's pretty rare, it's about time they start doing that and standardizing things. I hope the other manufacturers catch on. I've heard plenty of people say the 1 1-2" components are fine, I've never been impressed with any of them, myself. I've never seen any that didn't wiggle, or have some give to them.

I did a lot of looking, and the swagman xp racks are the ones that impressed me.

http://www.swagman.net/products/sing...xp-racks/xp-4/

[VicCT]

Thanks all. So the outcome is, I got the Curt hitch installed yesterday. I will be heading over to where the trailer is parked on Friday to try out the various things that need trying. Do I need a different ball mount? Will the trailer fit with kayaks on top? Can we squeeze both bikes into the trailer, somehow? Will my Thule T2 fit without the trailer hitched up? New car, new trailer, lots of new considerations and configurations. Not sure I will get to all of it on Friday, but I will try, and report back.

Between that and trying to find good campsites for the summer, I am in planning overload. My brain hurts!

[MC1]

Originally Posted by VicCT

New car, new trailer, lots of new considerations and configurations. Not sure I will get to all of it on Friday, but I will try, and report back.

Hi Vicki. Can you give us some more details? What car and trailer do you have now? What Curt product did you purchase? Thnxs.

[VicCT]

MC1, sorry if that was confusing. Same car and trailer as earlier in this post, just that they are new to me. So, 2008 v6 Rav4 with tow package, and 13 foot Scamp standard. :-)

The hitch is a Curt class III hitch for the Rav4. If I see lots of sag, I will either get the shock balloon things or a weight distribution system, but I am hoping my 13er is light enough to avoid that.

[MC1]

Sounds good Vicki. Please post some pics when you get it all set up.