1978 beachcomber - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-03-2013, 10:30 AM   #1
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1978 beachcomber

I am in need of a new axle on my beachcomber b15. I read a couple posts on the toe flex axle. Does anyone out there know the right measurements and size for the axle? Gvcw is 2000 lbs, does this mean I should get a 2500 lb axle, or a 2000 lb

Just curious what everyone's opinion is.
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Old 07-03-2013, 11:35 AM   #2
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Do you have a torsion flex axle now or a spring axle? I find spring axles easiest to replace and install my self, at least on trailers that have existing spring axles. Do you have, need or want brakes? Is this a DIY job or will you hire it out?

Frank
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:45 PM   #3
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It currently has a torsion flex axle. It does not need brakes. If I can bolt it on, will do in the yard. If it needs a welder, will have to tow it to a friends shop.

My previous post should have said that I was looking a Torflex axles not "toe flex". haha.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:45 AM   #4
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I have come to the conclusion that a new axle is in my near future also. I was going to leave it for now, but I went for a test tow yesterday and I think I will get a new one on order soon. Keep me posted as to what you find, and I will do the same for you. I know that Sid ( squidley ) bought his direct from escape in chilliwack. I will check with them
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:32 PM   #5
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I looked up Torflex online and found the nearest distributor. I think they're owned by dexter axle or something like that. Called them up and then got some info.

Priced a 2000 lb axle for $307 ( thats with no brakes ). I think he said brakes were another $100. I might shoot for a 2500 lb axle just to allow for cargo/etc. Need to measure the width between hubs and need to know the angle of the arms on the axle. I'm guessing they are 22.5 or 45 degrees up. I cant remember if you do that measurement with it loaded or unloaded. Probably need to know the distance between the tubing on the trailer frame to get the mounts right too.

I decided to wait until I had 'er almost finished and do the tow test like you did. The body of the trailer really straightened up when I reglassed parts of the floor in it. My fingers are crossed that I might go for a whole yet with what's in it.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:45 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rambit View Post
I looked up Torflex online and found the nearest distributor. I think they're owned by dexter axle or something like that. Called them up and then got some info.

Priced a 2000 lb axle for $307 ( thats with no brakes ). I think he said brakes were another $100. I might shoot for a 2500 lb axle just to allow for cargo/etc. Need to measure the width between hubs and need to know the angle of the arms on the axle. I'm guessing they are 22.5 or 45 degrees up. I cant remember if you do that measurement with it loaded or unloaded. Probably need to know the distance between the tubing on the trailer frame to get the mounts right too.

I decided to wait until I had 'er almost finished and do the tow test like you did. The body of the trailer really straightened up when I reglassed parts of the floor in it. My fingers are crossed that I might go for a whole yet with what's in it.
We need the 22.5 degrees up, that's the one squidley put under his after doing all the measurements. We will need the 2500 lbs, as squidley took every precaution to keep his weight down, and still came in above 2000. Which is why he eventually sold his after completion. I will use mine with its current axle, but purchase a replacement right away. I know it needs it, and like to have the parts ready for a job when I get the drive to do it. It always seems to me that the sourcing, and purchasing of parts is what I seem to stall on.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
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I looked up Torflex online and found the nearest distributor. I think they're owned by dexter axle or something like that.
Yes, Torflex is the Dexter Axle brand name for their "rubber torsion" trailer suspensions. Their web site contains just about everything you need to know about their trailer axles and components.

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Priced a 2000 lb axle for $307 ( thats with no brakes ). I think he said brakes were another $100.
That's a great deal for brakes, which would cost much more than this to add later. If buying a whole axle, it is always a better deal to get it with brakes than to upgrade later... and if you don't get brake mounting flanges originally, you can't add brakes later at any price without custom modification.

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I might shoot for a 2500 lb axle just to allow for cargo/etc.
That makes sense. Going over 2200 pounds means going from the Torflex #9 series to the Torflex #10 series, which changes all of the hub and brake hardware (different bearings, 10" brakes instead of 78", etc.).

The normal Torflex #10 capacity is 3500 pounds. Softening the springing by using shorter rubber rods to better suit the trailer weight reduces the capacity; you can order the capacity in something like 100 pound increments, so you can order 2500 pounds.

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... need to know the angle of the arms on the axle. I'm guessing they are 22.5 or 45 degrees up. I cant remember if you do that measurement with it loaded or unloaded.
There are several angles, as described in the application manual on the Dexter Axle website; it is the "start angle", meaning the angle between the arm and horizontal before any load is applied.

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Originally Posted by rambit View Post
Probably need to know the distance between the tubing on the trailer frame to get the mounts right too.
Yes... and the orientation of the mounts (inward or outward), and whether you want low or high brackets.
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Old 07-22-2013, 06:29 PM   #8
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All good advice... Thanks Brian and Willis!
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