1979 Burro - Electric brakes - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-08-2007, 04:53 PM   #43
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On these brake wires should I be looking for braided or solid wire? 12gauge I think I heard also.
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Old 07-08-2007, 05:33 PM   #44
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On these brake wires should I be looking for braided or solid wire? 12gauge I think I heard also.
Not solid.

I would go with an "automotive" stranded wire. SAE specifications require the insulation to be of a teflon type, they call it Cross-Link. There's several advantages to this type of wire. It will with stand a lot of heat before burning, and it will take a lot of abrasion before the insulation is compromised.
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Old 07-08-2007, 06:01 PM   #45
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In any installation where vibration may be present (in this case WILL be present), stranded wire is preferable to solid wire. According to the Tekonsha instructions, 14gauge is sufficient for 1-2 axles, 12gauge for 3-4 axles.

Here's an interesting pdf:

Tekonsha Brake Catalog and Info
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Old 07-08-2007, 07:45 PM   #46
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Yes, stranded wire (it's not braided, though - that's typically for shielding layers such as around communications cables), for flexibility.

I agree that with only 6 amps of current at most, 14 gauge is adequate, although Dexter recommends 12 ga. I used two-conductor 14-gauge cable with a tough and thick round rubber cover, sold for commercial truck light wiring; I would have used 12 ga if I could get it in a nice cover. The original brake wiring on my Boler was two conductors wrapped in a thin grey plastic cover which actually held up relatively well, although it had become brittle (the connnections, not the wire, were the problem in mine); I did not find any of the same design.
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Old 07-08-2007, 07:55 PM   #47
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Dura Flex is the brand name for axles from Henschen, now part of GKN. It's the same square-tube with four rubber rods design as Dexter's Torflex.

If you look at their drawings, you can see which starting angle your axle is built for, and thus at what angle the arms should be sitting with no load and under full load. I suppose that you could use the Dexter specs, too... they're about the same.
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Old 07-08-2007, 08:08 PM   #48
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Page 15 of Dexter's Operation Maintenance Service Manual describes checking of magnet wear:

Quote:
... a straightedge should be used to check magnet condition. For best results, the magnet should be flat.

Even if wear is normal as indicated by your straightedge, the magnets should be replaced is any part of the magnet coil has become visible through the friction material facing of the magnet...
Although not explicitly stated here, I believe they should be square to the wear surface, not tapered.

Here's the illustration from Dexter:

Click image for larger version

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From the photo, the brake magnet looks good to me (flat, square, no wire showing)... but I have zero experience replacing these things.
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Old 07-08-2007, 08:16 PM   #49
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More information....
Axle:
Dura Flex
Cap 1200 (trailer weight 1400 no?)
serial number 1-171272
1970
CAN (Canada?)
I suppose it's possible that the capacity is 1200 kg, which would be about 2640 pounds, but 1970 seems early for metric specs even in Canada (which went officially metric in the late 1970's) and that seems unusually high for an older 13' trailer. It could be that if the gross vehicle weight rating is 1400 lb that they assume at least 200 lb is carried by the hitch...

Since GKN still makes these axles and seems quite proud of individually serial numbering them, perhaps they can clarify the specs.
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Old 07-10-2007, 03:31 PM   #50
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First off MANY thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. I was able to spend some very hot days here in Fresno, Ca indoors on the computer learning from all of you what I would need to know. Today I went out and got some parts for wiring and had at it. I was able to turn a mess of wires into a fairly neat set-up. I wanted to get this straightened out first while I was also working on the actual brakes of the trailer. In the last few mornngs and evenings I was able to disassemble both brake drums and shoes. Cleaned all with a hose and air gun and reassemble with some brake grease on all areas where shoes or other surfaces rub. I do need to have the bearings greased and will need to get the grease and a little help from a buddy to do this. Easy fix. I have located and checked the wires in both brake drums and all seems well enough. Now that I have rewired the main tow cable and trailer connections there I can start string my new brake wires to the same area. I have 20 feet of 12ga wire waiting for this along with pritective sheathing, shrink wrap and zip ties.
I'm pretty ....excited about all I have done so far! Makes me feel like I can accomplish this.
I am SO glad I found you guys here.
Thanks Much
Picture Time! Before and after wiring.
Dave
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Old 07-10-2007, 03:38 PM   #51
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By the way.... Should I be afraid of THIS!
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Old 07-10-2007, 04:05 PM   #52
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By the way.... Should I be afraid of THIS!
Only if you hold the exposed leads to your tongue while you have the trailer plugged in.



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Old 07-10-2007, 04:12 PM   #53
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By the way.... Should I be afraid of THIS!
Is it ticking?
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Old 07-10-2007, 04:57 PM   #54
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No... no ticking.
Say what type of fuses should I have in place on my wiring job?
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Old 07-10-2007, 06:17 PM   #55
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Nice work on the wiring Dave!! If nothing else it looks like it should work better.
I used inline ATC fuseholders from Wally world. They're about a $2 each and then you can put whatever size ATC fuse you need for the circuit.

Keep up the good work and you're going to have a work of art when finished. Wait, we're never finished.... I have to go.
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Old 07-10-2007, 06:21 PM   #56
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That looks MUCH better!

I prefer blade fuses but the only place I have found panels of them is inside my converter (salvaged before I junked it) or an auto wrecking yard. Single blade fuse holders and glass fuse holders can be found at Wally and glass fuse panels at marine or auto parts stores.

Any brake connections should NOT be fused, they should be protected by auto-reset circuit breakers, so you don't have to make your wife climb out the window onto the hood to change a fuse while you are careening down the mountain with no brakes...

If any of your connections are exposed or subject to condensation, get some Liquid Tape at Home Despot or Lowers and seal them.
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