1979 Burro - Electric brakes - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-10-2007, 06:58 PM   #57
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That looks MUCH better!

I prefer blade fuses but the only place I have found panels of them is inside my converter (salvaged before I junked it) or an auto wrecking yard. Single blade fuse holders and glass fuse holders can be found at Wally and glass fuse panels at marine or auto parts stores.

Any brake connections should NOT be fused, they should be protected by auto-reset circuit breakers, so you don't have to make your wife climb out the window onto the hood to change a fuse while you are careening down the mountain with no brakes...

If any of your connections are exposed or subject to condensation, get some Liquid Tape at Home Despot or Lowers and seal them.

You might try here for fuse blocks. I'm sure there are others. A quick google search found that site.
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Old 07-10-2007, 08:48 PM   #58
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To continue Pete's point about fusing... the brake circuit and the vehicle lighting circuits (stop, turn, tail/running) should be protected by fuses or breakers in the tow vehicle, and do not need another fuse or breaker in the trailer.

Each circuit from the battery or converter to stuff in the trailer (such as the refrigerator, interior lights, fan, etc) should have a fuse or breaker. In my Boler, there are only three such circuits.
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Old 07-10-2007, 10:12 PM   #59
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To continue Pete's point about fusing... the brake circuit and the vehicle lighting circuits (stop, turn, tail/running) should be protected by fuses or breakers in the tow vehicle, and do not need another fuse or breaker in the trailer.

Each circuit from the battery or converter to stuff in the trailer (such as the refrigerator, interior lights, fan, etc) should have a fuse or breaker. In my Boler, there are only three such circuits.
I suppose I need to check the scymatic (sp) on each unit to find out what size fuse I need for each.
Ok and NO fuse at all on the brake wires from the wheels all the way to my distribution block. And I guess I need to read back for the brake wires . One connects to the tow cable white and one to the tow cable Blue correct?
My neighbor says he has a buddy that might give me a vehical electric brake system so I need to see what that is before I continue and finaly get to test mode.....
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Old 07-10-2007, 10:46 PM   #60
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I suppose I need to check the scymatic (sp) on each unit to find out what size fuse I need for each.
The schematic for the trailer, if you had one, would say what is on which circuit (disconnect one at a time to see what stops working to see what's really connected...), while the specifications for the appliances will say how much current is needed. The refrigerator and any fans, pumps, etc. should list their maximum current; for lights, take the power (in watts) divided by 12 to get amps.

You could also just fuse to match the wire size; no matter what the appliances want, the circuit should not be allowed more than the wire can safely carry... which depends mostly on its thickness (gauge).

Quote:
And I guess I need to read back for the brake wires . One connects to the tow cable white and one to the tow cable Blue correct?
Yes... plus, one wire of the breakaway switch goes to the battery positive, and the other goes the same side of the brake wires as the blue wire from the tow cable.

Quote:
My neighbor says he has a buddy that might give me a vehical electric brake system so I need to see what that is before I continue and finaly get to test mode.....
You can test the brakes while stationary without a controller - see posts #21 and #31, or (with complete wiring) use a bit of wire to short the battery charging terminal of the trailer's towing connector (normally black wire) to the terminal which is expecting brake power (the blue wire); this is a way to apply the full 12V using the entire trailer wiring path to make sure it's all hooked up right. It's also basically what the breakaway switch does. As with any stationary brake test (see Herb's post #21), you need to spin each tire to see if it stops when you (briefly) connect the test power.

On the road testing does need to wait for the controller. On the scale of the value of a trailer a controller is cheap - make sure that buddy's controller is worth using before bothering to put it in. Anything the manufacturer calls "basic" is actually "cheap minimal junk"... IMHO
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Old 07-12-2007, 04:27 PM   #61
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I wired each wheel all the way to my wiring block at the front of the trailer. Now I need a 7 pin installed on my tow Jeep Wrangler and a brake controler.
Attached Thumbnails
Wire_001.jpg   Wire_003.jpg  

Wire_004.jpg  
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Old 07-13-2007, 11:24 AM   #62
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Don't forget to use an auto-reset circuit breaker on the power connection to the brakes, per the controller instructions. I also use one on the battery-charge connection because the only way I would likely notice a blown fuse is when my trailer battery was dead...
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Old 07-13-2007, 12:18 PM   #63
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Don't forget to use an auto-reset circuit breaker on the power connection to the brakes, per the controller instructions. I also use one on the battery-charge connection because the only way I would likely notice a blown fuse is when my trailer battery was dead...
Can you give me more info on this auto circuit breaker. What size do you use on the battery connection? Where did you purchase?
I'm looking into the Tekonsha P3 brake controler.

http://www.tekonsha.com/p3.html

Dave
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Old 07-13-2007, 01:11 PM   #64
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Tekonsha's web site for the P3 is still not as complete as for other models. If you look at the Prodigy page, you'll see the usual level of documentation, including a link to their generic Brake Control Wiring Instructions. As described there, the circuit breaker is in the line from the battery positive terminal to the control's power input lead (black wire).

Tekonsha specifies "20 amp for 1-2 axles, 30 amp for 3-4 axles"; with only one axle, 20 amps is more than high enough, but if the wire gauge is appropriate it is harmless to use the 30A rating.

I actually bought mine at an RV dealership, but they're common automotive electrical components, and only cost a few dollars.
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Old 07-13-2007, 03:35 PM   #65
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Here's an example at an auto parts store:

AutoReset Circuit Breaker
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