2005 toyota highlander yes or no? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-26-2014, 08:56 AM   #15
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Name: Marshall
Trailer: Hoping to get one for my 50th bday
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Marshall, We use a 2006 Highlander (6 cylinder, 2 wheel drive, towing package, 130K miles) to pull a 2010 EggCamper (2,520 lb actual dry weight), and it does the job fine with just a 2" rise on the hitch (380 lb tongue weight). My only complaint is I wish I could press a button and extend the mirrors out another 6" on both sides. We recently had our local auto shop do a full tune-up for us including all new belts and transmission fluid change, and the improvement in performance was very noticeable. Best of luck....
Hi War Eagle.
I'm going to call toyota tomorrow to see what adding a tow package will cost. Hopefully it will be reasonable. Are there fgrvs that are superior and other brands inferior or are they all pretty much the sane in quality and construction? Thanks have a great Memorial Day
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:22 AM   #16
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The good news is, as you are not wanting a n FGRV for this season, that you can look a lot, gather all of our one-sided opinions about which is better/best, and miss the high prices that are already kicking in.

If you can plan ahead, buying in the late fall and winter seems to be the best time price wise, but the selection will be dramatically reduced from right now.

Shell seams, in whatever direction, are just something you have to live with. It's all about condition, condition and condition. That said, it doesn't sound like you will be interested in doing many repairs yourself, and RV shops are very expensive, so wise shopping will be critical to finding the best FGRV for you.

My #1 rule about buying (at least for today) is to buy the very best condition unit you can afford, fixers will become a money pit if you have to farm out for repairs.

Good Luck
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:31 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Marshallpianotech View Post
Hi War Eagle.
Are there fgrvs that are superior and other brands inferior or are they all pretty much the sane in quality and construction?
Short answer… no, they're not all the same construction, nor of the same quality. Each has its own (often fanatical) supporters and detractors on this forum. Bottom line, though, is what's perfect for one person may not work for you.

I would suggest starting a new thread with your question, since it is no longer a towing issue and you might get more feedback in another category and with a different thread title. At the same time, I would provide some information such as: towing parameters (vehicle & tow rating), number of people (solo, couple, family), type of travel (full-time, weekends,…), where you will camp (full-service RV parks, public campgrounds, boondocking), must-have equipment (bathroom, AC, ??), condition (new, turn-key used, fixer-upper), and budget. You should get a lot of recommendations.

If you aren't already, start keeping an eye on Greg's site:
Molded Fiberglass Trailers | Fiberglass RV's For Sale

Happy Hunting!
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:07 AM   #18
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Name: Dale
Trailer: 2010 EggCamper; 2002 Highlander 3.0L; 2017 Escape 21'; 2016 F-150 5.0L Fx4
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Originally Posted by Marshallpianotech View Post
Hi War Eagle.
Are there fgrvs that are superior and other brands inferior or are they all pretty much the sane in quality and construction? Thanks have a great Memorial Day
Marshall,

The good news is that most everyone loves the FGRV brand they have, and that every manufacturer in business today is still in business because they make a good product and have a loyal following - mostly by word of mouth on forums like this and "open house" walk-throughs at RV rallies. There are some younger start-up companies that have great designs but are still going through the usual growing pains, and there are some tried-and-true top-end manufacturers that everyone dreams about if they had the budget to afford them. You'll know so much more once you attend a rally and walk through a dozen or so different brands and models. Just a few examples of things to think about as you look around:
Ground clearance for highway vs. outback?
Entry door on the side or at the rear?
How many windows that look out what directions?
Types of windows and vents for air circulation?
Air conditioning? None, on top, built into the side?
Bathroom? None, primitive, adequate or deluxe?
Primary bed in the front or in the rear?
Bed/table combo or fulltime bed with side dinette?
What size bed and who might have to crawl over whom on the way to the bathroom in the middle of the night?
Space for additional guest bed along the side?
How much storage for clothing, food, etc. (weekender vs. full-timer)?
How big of a refrigerator?
How much counter space for food preparation?
How far away is the factory and how good is their customer service?
Oh, and if you're looking at used models, inspect the floor closely (inside cabinets, under beds, etc., etc.) for signs of long-term moisture exposure and rotting floor material. It can happen to the best of them if they weren't well cared for.

I could go on and on, but you get the idea. Prioritize the top four or five things you want/need in a camper, and I'm sure one or more of the popular manufacturers already makes a model like that. Then you deal with the rest or modify as you want.

Looking around and imagining the possibilities is half the fun! Happy hunting!

Dale
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:45 AM   #19
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Not sure what you mean by "tow package" or what your Toyota dealer might think it entails.
At my dealer the tow package did not include hitch receiver, wiring or brake controller. Toyota actually called it a "tow prep package". So, you want them to be clear on that.
Also, the Toyota factory hitch receiver for my RAV was only Class II. You may want a Class III so you can use a weight distribution hitch.
To install a Class II factory hitch, my dealer wanted more than $900 as an option on a new vehicle. To sell me the vehicle, they brought an after market installer in to their shop. He put in a Class III and wired the brake controller for $650.
So, I would find out how your vehicle is equipped. Then get an estimate from Toyota and from an after-market hitch shop ( which is likely who Toyota will bring in anyway ).
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:59 AM   #20
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Welcome Marshall, As others have indicated the best place to start your search is to go to a rally where you will have a chance to see many different brands and sizes of Fiberglass trailers in one spot. The Rally Map is a good place to look to see whats happening close to you.

The most valuable thread on this list for those starting out looking at trailers is called Trailer Weights in the Real World.... this is a list of actual trailer weights once loaded up for camping which as you will see is very different from the manufactures Dry Weight Specs. Most of the weigh ins where done at arrival at a rally in Oregon where the camp ground had full services so its a good bet not much if any water was in the tanks of most of the trailers when they were weighed.
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Old 05-26-2014, 11:18 AM   #21
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Marshall, I agree with Jon and Carol that, at this point, you would be better served by posting your "what camper to buy" questions onto a more appropriate thread. Perhaps the moderator could go ahead and move this discussion to where they feel it fits best.
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Old 05-26-2014, 12:32 PM   #22
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hi everyone. Thank you for all of the replies. Sorry for getting off topic. This is an exciting adventure even though I'm in the early stages. Now back to towing. I'll check with toyota tomorrow. I'm looking forward to finding out what they have to say. Thank you again.
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:41 PM   #23
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Marshall, If you have a full-service U-Haul trailer rental center/service shop nearby, they can do most anything you need done as far as frame-mount hitches, electrical connections, lighting, electric brake controller, etc. The one near us is great - make an appointment so they can get everything they need in stock, and it's usually half-day service. Worth checking out...
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Old 05-26-2014, 03:51 PM   #24
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Yup, I should have said "tow PREP package," not tow package.

Which way the seam runs doesn't really matter much; they fiberglass over the seam and the two halves are just about like one whole. Some are single hulled (like Scamp, Casita) while others (like Burro, Escape) are double hulled; both are good designs with minor pluses and minuses. Scamp and Casita use rivets through the hull to attach cabinets and such. Others fiberglass in some attachment points on the interior of the shell. Lil Snoozy's hull is a sort of sandwich design that needs no inner support for stiffening (it is self supporting); most others need the inner cabinetry and stuff to add rigidity and support the roof. So you can see that there are differences, but they all work.

Quality: pretty much all the companies make a good shell and put it on a good frame. From that point, the interior cabinetry can vary (some are molded-in, fiberglass; others are wood, which can vary in workmanship) but the appliances and such are common to the travel trailer industry and carry their own warranties. Any brand can turn out a lemon occasionally.
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:04 PM   #25
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hi Mike Bob Gail and everyone who replied. Thank you again for the great information help & advice. I called Toyota today. She pulled up my vin and our highlander has a tow prep package bigger radiator and I think transmission oil cooler? Toyota recommends a class 2 hitch. Would you have the dealer install it or someone like uhaul? The weight it can pull is 3500 lbs. I assume when the time comes to get a trailer I have to account for more than just the trailers weight tongue weight and trailer weight plus added weight for camping supplies tank fluids correct? How much weight should one add on as an estimate to the dry weight? What does g v r refer to? Do hitch sizes only affect how much wright the hitch can handle or does the size I e class 2 class 3 affect the stability of the trailer that's being towed? I'm excited. I'm on the road to tt ownership!
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Old 05-27-2014, 06:32 PM   #26
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I would go with a Class III hitch receiver, which gives you the option of using a weight distribution hitch or not. That's the set up I have. The Toyota manual says Toyota does not recommend a weight distribution hitch. It doesn't say you must not use one. If you look at your manual, you will see that all the important warnings are in yellow boxes. The sentence about weight distribution is not high-lighted.
I think you will find that, depending on your tongue weight, you might prefer using a WDH for ride and to keep the rear of the Highlander from dropping too much.
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:34 PM   #27
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Glenn has the good advice. For such a few dollars more Class III is the way to go.
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Old 05-27-2014, 07:46 PM   #28
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I think that you should confirm the transmission cooler as I believe that is required for the heavier capacity.

Did you happen to also get maximum hitch weight? It's yet another useful number.

And having a dealer (or Camping World) do almost anything is the most expensive way to go. Find a hitch shop and talk to them first.
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