2005 toyota highlander yes or no? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-27-2014, 09:04 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
I think that you should confirm the transmission cooler as I believe that is required for the heavier capacity.
I looked at the manual for this vehicle- those equipped for towing require the bigger radiator, and Marshall has confirmed that his vehicle is so equipped. No need for an add-on.

I would ask Marshall, though:

Is yours the third-row seat model? I ask because my read of the manual is that only that one has 3500 pounds of tow capacity- those without that option are limited to 3,000 pounds. (Probably suspension-related)



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Toyota recommends a class 2 hitch. Would you have the dealer install it or someone like uhaul? The weight it can pull is 3500 lbs.
I advise you to listen to Toyota with regards to your vehicle, as you appear to be doing so far. Toyota's OEM hitch is far superior to any aftermarket hitch as it attaches both internally and externally to the vehicle body and what passes for the frame. Aftermarket hitches do not.

Weight distributing system is not only against the advice of your vehicle's maker as the vehicle isn't designed to withstand the stresses involved, it adds NOTHING in terms of carrying capacity- so why bother???

The OEM has a two inch receiver, and capacity of 3500 pounds- your vehicle's limit. Going to a receiver that says on the label "OK for W/D" does not supercede Toyota's advisory against such use, or correct any deficiencies in the car that may preclude said use in Toyota's eyes.
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Old 05-27-2014, 09:22 PM   #30
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I put on an aftermarket receiver because it was much less costly, but I have since wished I'd paid for the OEM receiver because it is positioned higher (closer to the bumper) and I think it attaches somewhat better. However, the DrawTite receiver is working fine. It's your choice.

A class III receiver is stronger than a II, but if it doesn't attach any more securely, there's not much advantage IMO.

GVWR = gross vehicle weight rating = vehicle weight plus cargo, passengers, and weight on hitch (usually the driver and gasoline are already accounted for and don't need to be added in again).

It depends on how much a person packs in the trailer, but for trailers of this size range (13'-17') I usually figure 500-600 lbs of added weight when one considers the LP, water (very heavy stuff, water!), clothing, cookware, food, etc. Some folks with large stick trailers will add 1000 lbs or more!
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Old 05-27-2014, 10:08 PM   #31
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The link I saw mentioned a "heavy Duty Transmission Cooler" as a part of the towing prep option.

Transmission coolers come in two flavors. Heat exchange types that are a part of the lower tank of the radiator and Air-exchange coolers that are like additional radiators that only transmission fluid circulates through.

In many Toyota applications both are used on the same vehicles for additional transmission cooling. The additional transmission cooler sit in front of the radiator and a/c condenser.
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Old 05-27-2014, 10:32 PM   #32
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We purchased our 2006 Highlander new (6 cyc., GVWR 4985 lb) with a dealer installed Reese Class III 2" box hitch (rated 350 lb tongue, 3500 lb trailer). If I'm not mistaken, you have to go up to a Class III hitch to get the 2" square receiver - which gives you the most options and availability (and peace of mind). (I believe Class II receivers are the smaller 1.25" square, is that right?). The second "sticky" from the top in this "Towing" forum has all kinds of definitions and methods for calculating various vehicle and trailer weights. I'm pretty sure you'll find the answers to most all of your questions in it. As for where to have work done, I trust national brands (Toyota, U-Haul, etc.) who warranty their work, and having a local dealer can save you a lot of time and hassles going back and forth. It's nice to have a variety of local dealers so you can shop around for the best value. For example, our local Toyota service shop, U-Haul service center and Goodyear/Toyo tire and brake shop all do great work, but the Toyota shop is the priciest of the bunch. Anything to do with the engine, transmission and drive train, I'm willing to pay the higher price at the Toyota shop. Anything else (brakes, wiring, A/C, etc.) I price around and go to wherever they can get me in and out quickly and save me a few bucks, and I've rarely been disappointed. Just my thoughts....
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Old 05-28-2014, 08:41 AM   #33
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My bad! Had a "senior moment." Our Highlander is a 2002, not a 2006. It's our Prius that's a 2006 (not so good at towing, not that we've tried, but great for toting kayaks on the roof rack!). Sorry for any confusion...
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:34 AM   #34
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No problem War Eagle. We thought we saw you towing your kayaks in the back of a UHaul but since you explained you put them on the roof we can assume it wasn't you.
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Old 05-28-2014, 12:03 PM   #35
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Amazing photo - towing a double axle enclosed U-Haul trailer (10 ft?) with a Prius! If you've never driven a Prius, they are surprisingly spunky when both the engine and the drive battery kick in together, like for passing in a tight spot or going up steep mountain passes. But those guys are probably drawing power from both full time, and I'm not sure how sustainable that is. More power (literally) to them. We've talked about putting a hitch on the back of ours, but just for a bike rack. Thanks for sharing....
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Old 05-28-2014, 12:21 PM   #36
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Looks like the tongue is kinda low on tha Uhaul trailer.
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Old 05-28-2014, 01:41 PM   #37
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Looks like the tongue is kinda low on tha Uhaul trailer.
I've seen that U-haul-behind-Prius picture before and am skeptical of its authenticity. For one thing, I'd have to hear straight from U-Haul that they rented that trailer to be towed by that car. They don't even bother to look up mfr. ratings, ya know- they've got their own methods of calculating what can tow what. And I'm pret-ty, pretty sure they wouldn't allow a trailer that size behind a Prius.

And let's face it- what Pious owner would even think of breaching the terms of a rental contract by towing with a vehicle other than the one named thereon?
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:05 PM   #38
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But if the photo is legit, then the Prius seems to be holding its own (ie., no sparks flying from the muffler dragging on the pavement)! As narrow as a Prius is, and as wide as that trailer looks, I'm pretty sure the driver has no clue what might be coming up behind him!
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:28 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
We purchased our 2006 Highlander new (6 cyc., GVWR 4985 lb) with a dealer installed Reese Class III 2" box hitch (rated 350 lb tongue, 3500 lb trailer). If I'm not mistaken, you have to go up to a Class III hitch to get the 2" square receiver - which gives you the most options and availability (and peace of mind). (I believe Class II receivers are the smaller 1.25" square, is that right?).
That is incorrect- "Class II" is a weight class only- covers hitches between 1,000 and 3500 pounds. There are many such hitches with 2" receivers- the OEM hitch supplied by Toyota being one of them.

Breakpoint for receiver opening within the class is I think 2500 pounds, the usual limit for 1-1/4" ballmounts.
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:32 PM   #40
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If you look at the clearance on the rear wheel wells of the Prius, I think you will come to the conclusion that PhotoShop gets the credit.
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Old 05-28-2014, 02:49 PM   #41
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As narrow as a Prius is, and as wide as that trailer looks, I'm pretty sure the driver has no clue what might be coming up behind him!
A good point War Eagle and that is for sure a major safety issue. To think it would have been no problem slapping on a set of M'Kesh Mirrors.
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Old 05-28-2014, 03:48 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
... There are many such hitches [Class II] with 2" receivers- the OEM hitch supplied by Toyota being one of them...
For what it's worth, here's what eTrailer.com had to say about them, "There are a few Class II hitches that have 2" x 2" receiver openings, but this is not common." But if Toyota offers one that fits, and that's what you want, then problem solved.
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