2005 toyota highlander yes or no? - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-29-2014, 11:03 AM   #57
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wow! Great thread. I didn't intend to start a debate over hitches lol but I'll give ToyTa a try o e m with 2 " receiver correct? What does o e m stand gor. Over extended motor? lol. I'll more than likely have that hitch installed a good while before I buy a tt because I may need to rent a trailer to move a piano from time to time. So what Is the link to the trailer website with ACTUAL WEIGHTS rather than dry wrights? Which brands use rivets scamp and? Would the owners helping owners forum be a good forum to discuss brands? Thanks everyone
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Old 05-29-2014, 11:43 AM   #58
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EOM = Original Equipment Manufacturer.

And you never know what direction a given thread will take. It's one of the risks taken hereabouts.....
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Old 05-29-2014, 11:56 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
But maybe the added strength is in the shear number of smaller bolts spread over a larger area of the undercarriage. Could be, I guess. Not my concern, but I'm still curious....
Yes, when you look at a pro built hitch/receiver platform they are spread over a very large area and designed (when used with a WDH) to direct the trailer tongue weight to the rear axle assembly area of the vehicle, (instead of the back bumper area of the vehicle) as well as to the front axles of the vehicle. Really works well when the design and install is done right.

Example.....
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:37 PM   #60
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Ya, it's a real shame that 99.75% of the hitches out there aren't "Pro-Built", what ever that means.

But then again the peeps around here usually aren't looking to tow an Airstream (Much less even wanting one or being able afford one) and don't want to sink $2000 into a hitch, when an off-the-shelf one will do the job when used within the vehicles limits.

I thought that this horse had died.... what happened?
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Old 05-29-2014, 12:55 PM   #61
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I have asked etrailer by email why those class III hitches they advertise are not "rated" for WDHitch. Also asked which class III hitches they sell are rated.
Awaiting response.
Took my RAV4 in for recall and service and asked the service manager if he could find out why Toyota says a WDHitch is "not recommended". He is looking into it for me.
I think one of the issues on this forum is that people take words like "not recommended" and turn them into "absolutely forbidden". And then, etrailer uses the term "not rated" for WDHitch, which means exactly what?
Anyway, will post results of my enquiries.
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:33 PM   #62
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And then, etrailer uses the term "not rated" for WDHitch, which means exactly what?
Anyway, will post results of my enquiries.
W/D is a system of levers that uses the hitch/ball/tongue combo to create enough force to literally "lift" the rear of the vehicle, thus restoring weight to the front tug axles. Forces involved are greater than those on a simple hitch ball system and require more substantial design and means/points of attachment.

I think this principle is very well expressed in the following quote from this Airforums link:
(Post #12; "load equalizer" is another term for W/D)
Quote:
In simplest of terms, a load equalizer hitch lifts the back of the tow vehicle to remove weight from the rear axle and transfer it to the front axle. Think of inserting a long steel bar into your hitch receiver and lifting up.

This lifting twists the receiver vertically at its attachment points. If the attachment points or receiver are not strong enough something will tear and break.
Once those principles are understood, it seems obvious to me why the Highlander hitches sold by E-trailer are unsuitable for such heavy duty use. In addition to the mere six attachment points, all to the unibody underside, the three hitches on offer have that "curve" that wraps around the muffler (see below). Completely wrong for leverage purposes.


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Old 05-29-2014, 01:35 PM   #63
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Bass fishing and water skiing are big here in the Southeast, and it seems like half of the vehicles on the road here have a hitch for hauling boats of one type or another up and down the road to the next river or lake. So I just did a very unscientific walking survey of a large parking lot nearby, and it's amazing the variety of hitches out there. Overwhelmingly 2"x2" receivers. It's pretty evident that over the last 3-4 years, vehicle manufacturers have tried to make the hitches and electrical connectors blend in more stylishly with the bumper - some even having "skirts" to cover the receiver hole in the bumper when the hitch is not in use. But before that, it's amazing how many hitches out there incorporate that 2" to 3" drop from the frame or undercarriage to lower the receiver below the bumper. But with all the hundreds of boats (some of them pretty darn big!) being hauled hundreds of miles around here every weekend, I don't think I've ever heard of a wreck caused by hitch failure. Excessive speed and reckless lane changing, to be sure. But hitch failure, not that I've heard of. So maybe the physics behind that 2-3" hitch drop works out just fine.
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Old 05-29-2014, 01:59 PM   #64
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Francesca, When using a weight distribution hitch, is it a 100% transfer of weight off the rear axle of the TV onto the front axle of the TV? It seems like some portion of that weight redistribution would be born by the axle of the trailer. Taken to the extreme, where the rear axle of the TV is lifted completely off the ground, leaving only the front axel of the TV and the trailer axle to bear the entire weight, surely more of the total weight would be born by the trailer axle. So it seems that even a little WDH lift off the rear axle would shift some fraction of that weight to the trailer axle. Any idea what the physics might be behind that? Still just curious....
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Old 05-29-2014, 02:19 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Any idea what the physics might be behind that? Still just curious....

I'm smilin' because that very same curiosity has led me into some VERY technical discussions on this subject, much of which have proven difficult for my poor math-challenged self to grasp.

Here's an answer to at least part of your above question, as posted during one such question-and-answer session. Quote is from this RV.net discussion in a forum there populated by some very knowledgeable- and very patient- folks!

Quote:
Posted By: Ron Gratz on 02/06/14 03:50pm

With no weight distribution applied:
1) the ball coupler pushes downward on the ball,
2) the TV's rear axle serves as a fulcrum, and
3) the TV's front axle gets "lighter" (load is removed).

If the distance from the rear axle to the ball is equal to one-half the distance from the rear axle to the front axle, the load removed from the front axle will be equal to one-half of the tongue weight.

With weight distribution applied, each lift chain might be tensioned to 1000#, giving a total tension of 2000# for two chains. This means a downward force of 2000# is applied to the TT's A-frame about 30" behind the ball coupler.
With the ball coupler acting as a fulcrum, and assuming the distance from coupler to TT's axles is 240", the 2000# downward force acting 30" behind the ball would be countered by an added force of 2000#*30"/240" = 250# acting upward against the TT's tires.

Now, the TV's rear axle becomes a fulcrum, and the added force acting upward against the TT's tires causes an added upward force to act against the TV's front tires
If the distance from the TV's rear axle to TT's axles is twice the distance form the TV's rear axle to front axle, the amount of load added to the front tires will be equal to twice the load added to the TT's tires.

In other words:
4) the tension in the WD bar lift chains exerts a downward force on the A-frame,
5) the downward force on the A-frame (with ball acting as fulcrum) causes an upward force on the TT's tires (load is added),
6) the upward force on the TT's tires (with TV's rear axle acting as fulcrum) causes an upward force on the TV's front tires (load is added), and
7) the upward force on the TT's tires (with TV's front axle acting as fulcrum) causes load to be removed from the TV's rear tires.

The load removed from the rear tires, via application of WD, will be equal to the sum of the loads added to the front tires and TT's tires.

Ron
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Old 05-29-2014, 03:00 PM   #66
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Ya, that's kinda what I was thinkin', too!
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Old 05-30-2014, 10:17 AM   #67
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etrailer has responded and posted info on Highlander after-market hitches that they offer. You can find the page at: Why are Hitches for a 2005 Toyota Highlander Not Rated for Weight Distribution | etrailer.com

The answer basically rules out using a WDH with any unibody vehicle, which doesn't leave much.

Toyota service has email in at Toyota Canada and is awaiting response. My RAV4 got clean bill of health, including the underside.
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Old 05-30-2014, 11:06 AM   #68
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I asked a follow up question regarding that most SUVs are unibody and got this response:

More and more of them are.

All I can tell you is what the folks at Cequent Performance Products (parent company of Draw-Tite and Hidden Hitch) and Curt told me.

The 'frame' structure of the Highlander started to flex during the W/D portion of the hitch testing. The companies weren't pleased with that, so they don't recommend using weight distribution.
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Old 05-30-2014, 11:13 AM   #69
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Just looked up Class III Hidden Hitch for my 2008 RAV4 and got the following information. It appears the issue is with the Highlander and you can't apply "no WDH" generally.
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Old 05-30-2014, 11:49 AM   #70
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And, I looked up 2014 Highlander. WDHitch is not a problem.
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