2014 Subaru Forester- 1500 lb towing - Page 9 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-28-2013, 10:11 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by Night Sailor View Post
I had a K5 Blazer 4x4 diesel pulling a car hauler trailer with a Corvette on the back. The driving rain was manageable...

My K3500 Silverado is a diesel dually and an tow anything up to 12,000 lbs tag and 15000 lbs gooseneck or fifth wheel.
I had to tow with a 6.2 non turbo once. It was a learning experiance.
It now has a turbo and an sm465 with a ranger torque splitter and 4.56 gears. Much better for towing.

You wouldn't happen to have a 6.6 in that 3500?
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:14 AM   #114
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Yes I do. I have put 106,000 miles on it now--bought new in 2001.

I plan to change the drivers exhaust manifold and increase the exhaust to 4" diameter soon. this is mostly to help carry my camper. i can get 8.1% mire power just by changing the drivers side exhaust manifold. My goal is to increase my fuel economy 2 mpg and I am hoping I will only lose 2 mpg carrying my Barth aluminum truck camper.

Presently I get 15 mpg around town, stop and go heavy traffic, and typical highway driving, and mixed. My mileage drops with winter blend fuel, when driving over 70 (14 mpg) and at 85 for hours and hours, and in the mountains I get 13 mpg. My best is 15.9, achieved several times, (frustrating not hitting 16 but that is achievable). With the new exhaust and manifold I might get a 2 mpg increase--which would balance my loss with gain. It will be interesting seeing how it works out.

At the same time I plan to remove my spare tire and carrier to measure that spot for a second tank. My goal is to carry 100 plus gallons of fuel and have a range of 1500 miles driving the speed limit with the camper.
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:28 PM   #115
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Maybe that's partly why the Forester rating is lower- except we know people pull 2400# so we know it worked at least with the old Forester.
That worked, but not so well. I used an '04 Forester XS to tow my Scamp 16 around the Rockies, and sometimes over them. Although the drivetrain (manual) met my modest expectations, the rear suspension wasn't up to the task of supporting 200 lbs of tongue weight without sagging and jacking up the front end. There were no aftermarket solutions like air bags, either, due to the MacPherson strut front suspension. That's the hard ceiling on the Forester's towing ability.
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:38 PM   #116
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[QUOTE=Jared J;364332]Not if everybody else is going fast while one person is going 20-30 mph slower. With a 75 mph speed limit, somebody doing 40-50 can make things very interesting in traffic,

650/55mph (averaged your speed) = 11.8 hours.
650/75mph = 8.7 hours. 3.1 hours difference each way. Obviously, this isn't taking into account gas stops, but everybody has those.

Can you tell me about the trailer tires you use? I can't find any tires approved for more than 65mph.

Even my car had the power to tow for hours at 75 mph, everyone would want to pass anyway. Because it's a trailer, and trailers are slow, right?
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:37 PM   #117
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Can you tell me about the trailer tires you use? I can't find any tires approved for more than 65mph.

Even my car had the power to tow for hours at 75 mph, everyone would want to pass anyway. Because it's a trailer, and trailers are slow, right?
Jared,
According to the Tire and Rim Association the inflation pressures and load specifications in general for any ST Radial trailer tires, regardless of the manufacturer, are designed and rated at 65 MPH. However, if the speed is higher than 65 MPH, the pressure and load need to be adjusted according to the following guidelines:
From 66 to 75 MPH the tire inflation pressure needs to increase 10 PSI (not to exceed the maximum PSI the tire is rated for) but requires no load adjustment.
From 76 to 85 MPH the tire inflation pressure needs to increase 10 PSI (not to exceed the maximum PSI the tire is rated for) and load should be reduced by 10%.
ST (Special Trailer) Radials are designed specifically for use on trailers. They have different construction features and materials that vary from Auto and/or Light Truck tires. There are no merits in using a Light Truck tire over an ST Radial if the intended use is for a trailer. Maxxis would not recommend any tire be used in any application it was not designed for.
Thanks for your inquiry and interest in Maxxis Tires.
Best Regards,
The Maxxis Support Team
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:44 PM   #118
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That's good information, thanks. My wife likes to tow around 70, so I'll add some air. I don't yet know the comfortable speed for towing with my new vehicle, a 2013 VW Tiguan. But it has instantaneous mpg readout, which will, I imagine, give me another disincentive to driving any faster.
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:46 PM   #119
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No problem. I was asking them about running LT's due to the speed limitation, and was surprised to find that info. I'll be putting a set of maxxis 225/75/15 e's on my scamp when it's done. I don't trust the cheaper ones on it, and a blowout on a fiberglass camper scares the heck out of me.
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:38 PM   #120
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That's good information, thanks. My wife likes to tow around 70, so I'll add some air.
Proceed with caution on that front!! Just adding more air can be a recipe for a disaster. You should first read what the load limits & max pressure rating are for your tires and then weigh each side of your trailer - often each side is different. Then go to the tire manufactures website and read what they say in regards to the ST tires that you actually own.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:25 PM   #121
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I'd add to that:

Before you decide to up the air pressure, do make sure the rims of the trailer wheels are rated to accommodate it.

Also:
I'd like to hear directly from your wife that she's the one that thinks 70 is a good towing speed...

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Old 03-09-2013, 09:28 PM   #122
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That's the way it is. She's somewhat Type A, and her first job out of engineering school involved driving semi-tanker trucks for a little Oil Patch outfit called Halliburton. She traded that for a career in nuclear weapons production management, so she surpasses my tolerance for worry.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:33 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
I'd add to that:
Before you decide to up the air pressure, do make sure the rims of the trailer wheels are rated to accommodate it.
Thanks Francesca for raising that VERY important point as it became clear when this topic came up not so long ago here that a number of trailers do not have rims that are rated for upping the pressure to what has been suggested.

Again it can all add up to a recipe for disaster if one doesnt do a bit of homework on the topic first.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:50 PM   #124
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How do you check rim pressure ratings? My Scamp appears to have OEM steel wheels. I wouldn't expect an extra 10 psi would break a steel wheel.

I do plan to replace my tires soon. Not because they're worn, but because they're eight years old. Opinions?
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:14 PM   #125
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Rim maximum pressure is supposed to be stamped directly on the inside surface of the wheel. Demounting of tires is usually required to see the number- checking with the trailer maker on later model units might be a way to avoid having to do that.

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Old 03-09-2013, 10:20 PM   #126
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My Scamp appears to have OEM steel wheels. I wouldn't expect an extra 10 psi would break a steel wheel.
Extra beyond what? The OEM wheels should handle the maximum inflation pressure of the tires, and the "extra" pressure is 10psi beyond that required to handle the load at 65 mph, but still must be no more than the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall.

Of course, this assumes that Scamp uses adequate components; I don't know if you can count on that.

We worked through the ST pressure/speed issue in RV Tires; it would be good to avoid going through that pain again.
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