2016 17' Bigfoot Travel Trailer Fishtailing With Tundra Tow Vehicle - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:20 PM   #21
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Propride was worth every penny for us. I think we paid around 2500, and it necessitated cutting into the fiberglass hitch cover to install it. Prior to installing it, it was terrifying driving the Silver Cloud down the Interstate, and Kevin does not drive fast. Every semi and bus threw us into sway. We even had a hitch that was supposed to stop sway put on by the RV place where we bought it, but it seemed to do little.

That being said, our Bigfoot 28 feet long, and a 1988 model. Being older, it sits closer to the ground by design than newer Bigfoots. I am sure the length makes it a "horse of a different color" so to speak than your shorter and newer Bigfoot.


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Old 09-01-2017, 01:21 PM   #22
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Please post pictures we don't get many newer Bigfoot 17's to dream over
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Old 09-01-2017, 01:30 PM   #23
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I wouldn't worry about the axle unless all else fails. It is brand new, but there is always the off chance that the PO hit a curb hard and bent something. Not likely, but possible. .

Weight distributing hitches are matched to the tongue weight. Some have sway control built into the design, some don't. If not, a friction anti-sway bar is frequently added as a separate component.

I wouldn't be looking at the high end units for this relatively small trailer. If you just spent $120K for a 34' Airstream, that'd be a different story, and $2K is chump change.
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Old 09-01-2017, 03:16 PM   #24
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Yes, weigh the hitch directly below the ball with the trailer sitting level or slightly nose-down. And take the trailer to a scale and get it weighed also; don't assume you know what the trailer weighs. You can't know for sure if you have 10%-15% of the weight on the hitch if you don't know the total trailer weight! Getting this right should take care of all the sashayin'.

A body shop could check the axle for straightness, but really I think you'd see abnormal tire wear within a couple thousand miles (maybe even just a few hundred miles) if the axle is bent.

As for anti-sway hitches, the $400-$500 ones use friction to dampen any sway that starts so it should not be able to get out of hand, while the ProPride and Hensley Arrow use a geometric linkage to prevent sway from starting. See the difference? The latter two project a virtual hookup to a location forward of the actual ball... actually to about where the axle is... which makes the bumper-pull trailer tow like a 5th wheel. This is why they are so expensive. Do you need such an advanced design? Probably not, but it is your call. Some people tow 30' trailers with just one or two friction sway bars, which don't even work as effectively as an anti-sway hitch, and almost all of those folks make it out and back safely. Personally, I would go with an Andersen No-Sway or an Equal-i-zer (brand name from Progress Mfg). The Equal-i-zer has been proven through decades of use and is reliable. The Andersen is a new design that is lighter weight, a bit easier to hook & unhook (IMO, YMMV), and cleaner (no greasy/dirty bars), but it does put pressure on the coupler's rear pawl and is actually incompatible with a handful of couplers (check Andersen's website). For a 17' TT you really should not "need" a $2,000 hitch, but if it gives you peace of mind and a warm glow, then do what feels good.
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Old 09-01-2017, 03:47 PM   #25
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Great explanation Mike, thank you. So good in fact that I am saving it for future reference.

I use the Andersen WDH on the Casita, but it won't fit the Airstream.

I bought a Sherline scale from Amazon to measure the tongue and each wheel after the trailer is loaded. I keep changing things on the trailer; Overtank Platform, Honda 3000 generator on top, full water tank, empty water tank, take Overtank off, put it back on...Hey, I'm retired and not too bright.

But using a commercial scale is undoubtably the best way.
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:03 PM   #26
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Let us know how it goes. I'm happy that my 91 tows steady, even without proper tongue weight. When I first bought it and drove it home, I noticed it was kind of "floating" behind me, and I later realized this was because it didn't have nearly enough tongue weight. But it still didn't fishtail or sway uncomfortably at all, just kind of floated a bit back there. With the proper tow angle, it tows solid as a rock without any weight distribution. Just ever so slightly "nose down" and it's great. Mine is lighter than yours, but I tow it with a small 3.4L V6 Tacoma.

I have air bags, and have a preferred setting, but yours will be different. The Tacomas have pretty weak rear leaf springs so I need some air in the bags to keep it from resting on the bump stops. Your Tundra will be completely different. It is really nice to be able to level the truck out using the air bags.
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:51 PM   #27
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Update

Here's my update after trying to make good use of all the information I was passed:

-Took the rig to a commercial scale. The trailer weighed 4420 LBS. This is much heaver than I expected since the spec on Bigfoot's website shows 3275 as a base dry weight. My freshwater tank was 3/4 full, but this should only account for 200 additional pounds. The only thing I can think is that the spec page doesn't account for things like the air conditioner and awning, although I can't imagine that stuff would add up to the additional 900 lb difference! Surprisingly though, the tongue weight was 540 lbs, so around 12%, and probably not the "smoking gun" I was hoping for. Any reason to push this percentage closer to 15% by adding some ballast to the front storage compartment?

-Spent a lot of time at the local RV shop. They don't deal Bigfoot, but they are a Lance dealership, and seemed very congenial. The maintenance guys recommended using an Anderson hitch, although he stated that he would need to cut into the fiberglass shrouding at the trailer tongue in order to mount the hitch brackets on the trailer frame. I really don't want to do this if I can avoid it. I called several Bigfoot dealers however, and they stated the same thing. Does anyone know of a weight distribution hitch I can install without having to cut into the fiberglass of the trailer? The guy at the trailer shop mentioned I could possibly have the bracket of the Anderson hitch welded to the inner part of the frame on the Bigfoot in order to avoid cutting the fiberglass, although he said I would need to verify the safety of this plan with Anderson before going forward. Any experience with this?

-Found out (this is embarrassing) that when my dad towed it out he was using a 2" ball rather than a 2 5/16"! I replaced the ball today, and also changed the hitch so the truck and trailer are level. Anyone else willing to fess up to this mistake, and could using the smaller ball in itself account for the fishtailing on its own?

-For those asking for a picture, I haven't taken many yet, but here's one I have on my phone for a quick "proof of life".

Ryan
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Old 09-01-2017, 09:50 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdf0011 View Post
Here's my update after trying to make good use of all the information I was passed:

-Took the rig to a commercial scale. The trailer weighed 4420 LBS. This is much heaver than I expected since the spec on Bigfoot's website shows 3275 as a base dry weight. My freshwater tank was 3/4 full, but this should only account for 200 additional pounds. The only thing I can think is that the spec page doesn't account for things like the air conditioner and awning, although I can't imagine that stuff would add up to the additional 900 lb difference! Surprisingly though, the tongue weight was 540 lbs, so around 12%, and probably not the "smoking gun" I was hoping for. Any reason to push this percentage closer to 15% by adding some ballast to the front storage compartment?

-Spent a lot of time at the local RV shop. They don't deal Bigfoot, but they are a Lance dealership, and seemed very congenial. The maintenance guys recommended using an Anderson hitch, although he stated that he would need to cut into the fiberglass shrouding at the trailer tongue in order to mount the hitch brackets on the trailer frame. I really don't want to do this if I can avoid it. I called several Bigfoot dealers however, and they stated the same thing. Does anyone know of a weight distribution hitch I can install without having to cut into the fiberglass of the trailer? The guy at the trailer shop mentioned I could possibly have the bracket of the Anderson hitch welded to the inner part of the frame on the Bigfoot in order to avoid cutting the fiberglass, although he said I would need to verify the safety of this plan with Anderson before going forward. Any experience with this?

-Found out (this is embarrassing) that when my dad towed it out he was using a 2" ball rather than a 2 5/16"! I replaced the ball today, and also changed the hitch so the truck and trailer are level. Anyone else willing to fess up to this mistake, and could using the smaller ball in itself account for the fishtailing on its own?

-For those asking for a picture, I haven't taken many yet, but here's one I have on my phone for a quick "proof of life".

Ryan
Hmmm. 12% should be fine as long as you are level or slightly nose-down. You can always load more of your gear toward the front when you go camping, though. When it was towed nose-up, this would have redistributed some of the weight backward (a bit more of the trailer body would have sat behind the axle, picture a tall box on a fulcrum) and the front also would have stuck up into the wind more, all of which could have lessened the tongue weight somewhat during that trip.

The other factor is the ball size, which allowed some slop in the connection. Any time a trailer tongue is allowed to move side to side, this can contribute to poor handling. It is known, for example, that tall, soft-sidewall (P rated?) tires can be pushed sideways (tire squirm) more than lower profile (shorter sidewall) tires or stiff-sidewall (LT or extra-load) tires. I would surmise that the smaller ball could have contributed somewhat, in the same manner as tires could. Which, by the way, you might want to look at and see what kind are on that Tundra.

I can see why you'd be reluctant to cut that nice FG storage box. Most other FG trailer brands don't have anything quite so generous a size on their tongues, so they are easier to get a sway hitch attached. Bigfoot has a nice box there. Hate to mess it up. I do not know offhand of any anti-sway hitches that can go on there without some cutting. Friction sway bars might be the least intrusive solution. I don't care for them because they have to be tightened down more when they get wet (rain) and loosened when backing up sharply (or they can get bent), but they're better than nothing. I guess you could always test-tow the BF with the corrected tongue height and ball size, and see how it handles. Be prepared to engage trailer brakes only (not vehicle brakes, use the brake controller lever) if you need to bring the TT back into line from any sway.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:58 PM   #29
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You may not need a WDH with anti-sway setup. When I first bought my Bigfoot 17', I called Bigfoot headquarters to ask about recommended hitches. They convinced me that I didn't need one with proper setup and tow vehicle; thus no need to cut the fiberglass tongue cover. I tow with a Ford F150 so plenty of beast for the burden.

Before you cut the 'glass, give it a tow with the correct ball size and height. Thanks for the picture!
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Old 09-02-2017, 06:04 AM   #30
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Did I somehow miss the part where you describe towing it yourself with your truck and the correct size ball?

This is the first thing that I would want to do and see if you even have an issue at all for yourself.

If so then "Nevermind"!

But if not,why not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdf0011 View Post
Here's my update after trying to make good use of all the information I was passed:

-Took the rig to a commercial scale. The trailer weighed 4420 LBS. This is much heaver than I expected since the spec on Bigfoot's website shows 3275 as a base dry weight. My freshwater tank was 3/4 full, but this should only account for 200 additional pounds. The only thing I can think is that the spec page doesn't account for things like the air conditioner and awning, although I can't imagine that stuff would add up to the additional 900 lb difference! Surprisingly though, the tongue weight was 540 lbs, so around 12%, and probably not the "smoking gun" I was hoping for. Any reason to push this percentage closer to 15% by adding some ballast to the front storage compartment?

-Spent a lot of time at the local RV shop. They don't deal Bigfoot, but they are a Lance dealership, and seemed very congenial. The maintenance guys recommended using an Anderson hitch, although he stated that he would need to cut into the fiberglass shrouding at the trailer tongue in order to mount the hitch brackets on the trailer frame. I really don't want to do this if I can avoid it. I called several Bigfoot dealers however, and they stated the same thing. Does anyone know of a weight distribution hitch I can install without having to cut into the fiberglass of the trailer? The guy at the trailer shop mentioned I could possibly have the bracket of the Anderson hitch welded to the inner part of the frame on the Bigfoot in order to avoid cutting the fiberglass, although he said I would need to verify the safety of this plan with Anderson before going forward. Any experience with this?

-Found out (this is embarrassing) that when my dad towed it out he was using a 2" ball rather than a 2 5/16"! I replaced the ball today, and also changed the hitch so the truck and trailer are level. Anyone else willing to fess up to this mistake, and could using the smaller ball in itself account for the fishtailing on its own?

-For those asking for a picture, I haven't taken many yet, but here's one I have on my phone for a quick "proof of life".

Ryan
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:13 AM   #31
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Yeah try it with the right ball size, then see where you need to go. Get it all "right" first, then see if you need anything more.

And if you do, just cut it. No big deal. Cut it nicely so it looks professional, and anyone, including yourself, who looks at it will think it came that way from the factory.
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Old 09-02-2017, 01:45 PM   #32
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I've owned a 25' FB Bigfoot for two years, pulling it over 30,000 miles with a 2014 4x4 Tundra, 5.7l engine. When I picked up the trailer new at the Canadian border in June 2015, I was unable to install and connect my Equal-I-Zer weight distribution/anti-sway bar system. I had to drive 350 miles, and the trailer swayed enough to initiate the truck's anti-sway system at least FIVE times, each instance seriously scaring me.

After installing the Equal-I-Zer, the trailer has NEVER swayed, not even at 75mph on Arizona highways. I never owned or pulled a trailer before buying the Bigfoot. I am a confirmed believer in the quality and effectiveness of the Equal-I-Zer. It is worth the money. Once setup correctly, I have found it easy to deal with.
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Old 09-02-2017, 11:39 PM   #33
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There's a huge difference in towing a 17' trailer vs towing a 25' trailer. I still agree with Bigfoot - a WDH is probably not needed for towing a 17' trailer with an appropriate tow vehicle.
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Old 09-03-2017, 02:23 AM   #34
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Set your TT up without the WDH, following the guidelines you find in this website. Put a thousand miles on it. Buy the Andersen Hitch. Try it. Will you NEED it? Probably not. Will you be able to feel the difference? I felt the difference.
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:58 AM   #35
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I tow with a 2007 big Tundra I have towed Bigfoot 17's, Escape 19 and 17 without any WDH. If the trailer is loaded properly it will not fish tail. Pulled a Bigfoot 17 in Nevada in high winds it did just fine.
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Old 11-02-2017, 11:10 PM   #36
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I have a 2014 Bigfoot 2500 17.5 FB as well. I tow with a Dodge Cummings and no sway or weight distribution setup. I full-time so I'm loaded heavy (certified weight is 8600 for the truck and 4600 for the trailer - 550 tongue weight).

I have no sway at all at any speed up to 75 (very short burst - I tow at 60-65). Now porpoising is another matter.

I changed out the axle to a 5200 Dexter but have noticed no difference in handling at all. I did upgrade the tires from D rated to E rated Maxxis, same size.

I do think the 3/4 ton pickup with leaf springs makes a difference.
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Old 11-02-2017, 11:15 PM   #37
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I'll add that I travel with the fresh water tank as full as possible (it's located in the front and load heavier stuff in the front storage compartment. I also added a second battery to the battery storage compartment on the tongue. That's why I'm up to 550 tongue weight.
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:33 AM   #38
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Not sure what the tongue weights are but the back trailer weighs 1180lbs with ATV. Pulled them 2,500 miles in August with my F-150 ecoboost. No sway problems at 70mph but had to keep it down to 65mph because of fuel consumption.
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:41 AM   #39
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I have read some hot arguments from the wdh thing?


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