7 pin problems - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-13-2014, 06:33 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
A 4 pin connector has 1 White Wire. If U do not have the White Wire going to the trailer, U do not have a GROUND. U must have a ground for things to work correctly. U must not rely on the trailer hitch/ball to provide the ground.
Thank you Darwin, good suggestion, but I am aware of that and have a chassis ground for my 7 pin. I have no idea what's going on with the ground for the factory 4 pin, but if the problem came going through a car wash, it seems something must have shorted out?

Hmmm.

Frank
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Old 07-13-2014, 07:07 PM   #16
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Check the fuses in the car. There is probably a fuse added when the factory supplies the trailer connection. When the car was washed you probably got a ground short. If you had led lights the draw would have been minute but the incandesents the draw can be much more substantial blowing the fuse.
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Old 07-13-2014, 08:04 PM   #17
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Let us know how the mystery is resolved and whats missing/caused it.
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:44 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
Check the fuses in the car. There is probably a fuse added when the factory supplies the trailer connection. When the car was washed you probably got a ground short. If you had led lights the draw would have been minute but the incandesents the draw can be much more substantial blowing the fuse.
I broke the fuse removing it Steve, but will replace it today with any luck. It's a weird 40 amp fuse in the rear panel. I think they call therm a J Case fuse. Even though the top snapped off, it looks like it's good fuse, so we'll see.

Thanks,

Frank
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Old 07-14-2014, 01:41 PM   #19
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40 amp is probably the charge line for the trailer battery. On my Nissan when the brake light converter failed it would be fine by day but if I turned on the headlights the running lights would over load the circuit taking out the brake light fuse. Then I would get a brake controller failure since it saw no power from the brake circuit. In the end I found out all trailer light converters were not created equal and vary on how much amps they could draw through. I bought a better converter with higher rated amperage and my fuse and trailer lighting issues went away. The circuits on newer cars are not as robust and are much better protected these days. Even the trailer brake controllers are so much more sophisticated. If Ford has a TSB on the trailer light converter you bet I would be getting it replaced.
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
If Ford has a TSB on the trailer light converter you bet I would be getting it replaced.
My betting money is leaning towards a faulty power module/converter .... I know when the one on my last vehicle failed strange things happened to the lights & charge line on the trailer! LOL Also although the vehicle came pre wired for trailer towing with a 4 pin installed, we had to actually add the power module/converter between the 4 plug and the 7 pin as the factory did not have one in place... wondering if the same may be true of the Ford Escape.
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:59 PM   #21
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My betting money is leaning towards a faulty power module/converter .... I know when the one on my last vehicle failed strange things happened to the lights & charge line on the trailer! LOL Also although the vehicle came pre wired for trailer towing with a 4 pin installed, we had to actually add the power module/converter between the 4 plug and the 7 pin as the factory did not have one in place... wondering if the same may be true of the Ford Escape.
The 7 pin kit I used is the same one another forum member used on his same exact vehicle and everything worked fine for him, no problems at all. I'm assuming for now it's a Ford problem, but had no time today to call. Maybe tomorrow.
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:19 AM   #22
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Many of the manufacturers will have a vehicle tow ready , but not have fuses in place. With my Envoy, there is a separate fuse for turn signals, park lights and charge line in a secondary fuse box under the hood, I believe most GM's are done this way, not sure about Ford's though, try googling it. If the message was in the driver information centre, it is possible that water got into the 7 pin connector and caused a short on the factory 4 pin side, as this does go through the 7 pin as well

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Old 07-20-2014, 07:25 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Joe MacDonald View Post
Many of the manufacturers will have a vehicle tow ready , but not have fuses in place. With my Envoy, there is a separate fuse for turn signals, park lights and charge line in a secondary fuse box under the hood, I believe most GM's are done this way, not sure about Ford's though, try googling it. If the message was in the driver information centre, it is possible that water got into the 7 pin connector and caused a short on the factory 4 pin side, as this does go through the 7 pin as well

Joe
Thanks Joe, but even though I thought the Escape fuse was good, I replaced it, no change. No question in my mind it is something screwy with the factory plug, but have yet to hear back from the dealership after two calls last week. I'll go at it again this week!

We bought this car specifically to tow our egg, so something needs to get done. The problem I'm having with Ford is one reason over the years I just don't trust new (or used) car dealers.

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Old 08-02-2014, 04:58 PM   #24
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Here's an update. Turns out my 4 and 7 pin testers are not up to current (or at least 2013) Ford standards. The dealer found the 4 pin worked fine, and sure enough, it does. I have all the lights stuff. I can tow the boat and utility trailers no problem. What I am lacking is brakes.

So today I spent a few hours playing with Gail's Escape. Turns out I was getting inconsistent brakes, so I thought, aha, a faulty or bad brake wire connection! The guy that hooked up my brake wire used a blue scotchlok connector on a 20 gauge line, so I thought maybe that's it. After some major contortions, I got that out without loosing any wire, a good thing, as there is not much there to begin with. Then I stripped the ends of the wire (purple with a white stripe), and connected them to longer wire (~6" & purple) with red butt connectors and tied those together with a 3 way red connector, where the extra connection went to the brake controller. Now I don't even get inconsistent brakes.

So then I go back over everything, check all my connections, my circuit breakers in the engine compartment, connections to the brake connector, everything seems fine.

So I go out back to the 7 pin plug. After some himming and hawing, I decide to switch it out, as I have a spare. I pull the negative cable off the battery, cut a few wires, then reconnect everything with my new plug. Still doesn't work.

Guess I'm gonna pay somebody by the hour to figure this one out. Oh well, it's not like I didn't try!

Frank
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Old 08-03-2014, 05:06 AM   #25
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Seeing everything works but the brakes (controller lights up, so have power), this morning I intend to check the blue wire coming from the 7 pin up to the controller for continuity. I have to wait for somebody else to get up, as we're babysitting 2 extra dogs this weekend, and they won't leave me alone! If I have continuity in that wire, I will be absolutely stumped!

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Old 08-03-2014, 07:22 AM   #26
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One thought here Frank. Many newer vehicles get the computer out of whack if the battery is disconnected. Sometimes there is a procedure to get the programming back to normal in it. This would have nothing to do with your plug problem, just something to be aware of when disconnecting the battery. There are devices to maintain power to the vehicle computers when you disconnect the battery. I have one that uses a 9 volt battery and it plugs into the cigarette lighter, but that may be outdated technology by now. Good luck solving your problem.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:40 AM   #27
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The last thing I can do is change out the plug that plugs into the back of the brake controller. Everything else works and has 12V power. If that's not it, into somebody else's garage it will go. I'm off to the big NAPA store in Troy right now. They open at 9. More to come.

The problem you describe could be it. I'll have a better idea shortly. Thanks.

Frank
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Old 08-03-2014, 04:26 PM   #28
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Frank, Even diehard do-it-yourselfers need to know when to through in the towel, especially with something as important as trailer brakes. I finally gave up on one, took it to a shop that sells utility trailers and specializes in trailer repair, and in about 30 minutes they discovered the 7-pin receptacle on my TV (that had previously worked fine) had a manufacturing defect that finally gave up the ghost. They did a quick replacement, and the problem was gone. My headaches were gone. Cost me about as much as I had spent on aspirin trying to figure out what the problem was. Some times the pros are worth it - especially when you're talking about something as important as brakes. Best of luck....
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