73 Boler axle - Fiberglass RV
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Old 12-01-2014, 05:23 PM   #1
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1973 13' Boler
Ontario
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73 Boler axle

Hello all,

So I just got my Boler and guess what? My axle is shot. Big surprise, eh?

Here are my questions:

1. Is a trailing arm just a leading arm axle mounted bacwards?

2. I have a bolt on axle, can I just buy another and bolt it on?

3. Whatever kind I need, where can I buy it? What do I ask for? ie. specs

Thanks in advance!
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Old 12-01-2014, 05:58 PM   #2
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A lot of people get their Boler axles from Paul, see website below. He is very knowledgeable and will sort you out with the right one.
Fibreglass RV Parts, Repairs, and Service by Paul Neumeister
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Old 12-01-2014, 06:03 PM   #3
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Hey Keaner,
I just bought a new dexter axle with electric brakes for my newer Boler last week. I see you are from Ontario so depending on how far away you are from Stratford you might want to give Paul Neumeister in Sebringville a call (519-393-6410). Paul is a great guy and very experienced and knowledgable about Boler's and their cousins.
Jay


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Old 12-02-2014, 08:36 AM   #4
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Name: charles
Trailer: 1972 American boler
Michigan
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Hi Kreaner

Just like jay said call Paul.
He just finished installing new axel with brakes on my 72 boler American. I live in South west
Michigan . We are leaving today to pick it up
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Old 12-02-2014, 11:05 AM   #5
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If were my Boler I would replace the axle with a straight one with springs. This type is less expensive and the trailer will sit higher.
Chuck
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Old 12-04-2014, 10:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosey45385 View Post
Hi Kreaner

Just like jay said call Paul.
He just finished installing new axel with brakes on my 72 boler American. I live in South west
Michigan . We are leaving today to pick it up

Hey Rosie,
I was checking out your 72 when I was in Paul's shop last week. I have only owned my boler since September so it was nice to look at another one to compare to. I like your awning a lot and I am thinking that needs to be added to my list of wants...


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Old 12-04-2014, 10:25 PM   #7
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So Keaner are you interested in buying a used axle? I replaced mine only because I wanted brakes, it seems to be in great shape otherwise. It is on a 1988 Boler (although my tag says 1991) and therefore it is really not that old. It is a leading arm torsion suspension and it still has give. I haven't removed it yet but hey if you're at all interested let me know, we can talk.


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Old 12-14-2014, 09:48 PM   #8
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Trailer: 1973 13' Boler
Ontario
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Jay did you go with leading or trailing arm? I want to avoid welding and keep the cost down. I am considering putting brakes on a leading arm.

There are a lot of conflictng opinions on this topic.

cheers
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Old 12-14-2014, 10:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FTTRV View Post
If were my Boler I would replace the axle with a straight one with springs. This type is less expensive and the trailer will sit higher.
Chuck
Have you looked under a Boler? There's a reason the axle is installed the way it is.
I put Paul's axle(dexter) under our 74 Boler last year and took off to California jan1 works perfect.
Fred
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Old 12-15-2014, 05:43 AM   #10
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73 Boler axle

My axle is a trailing arm. You'll have to ignore what I said in the previous post, just went out and double checked. And it is a bolt on. I am planning on putting a piece of 2"x2" square tubing between the frame and the axle to get a little lift on the trailer. There are lots if threads discussing the benefits/drawbacks of this. myself, I know I have scraped the trailer hitch of my gmc canyon coming out of parking lots and I have no desire to scrape my fiberglass trailer on an entrance or exit.
As for the conflicting opinions, they will always be there. I bought my axle from Paul N and while I was there he was setting up brakes for a leading arm. My opinion of Paul is he wouldn't do that to a trailer if there was a real issue with the set up.

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Old 12-15-2014, 06:19 AM   #11
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Not a bad idea Jay to a lift. I did a 3" lift that I bought from Perfect Casita because I got tired of dragging the bumper and yes, my axle is good. We've got pretty deep driveway aprons and intersections around here. It does help if you can go through them at a 45* angle but.....not always. It did change the step hight but we haven't taken a header yet . BTW, I haven't seen any difference to handling or mileage by having the SD 3" taller, even in crosswinds.
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay H View Post
..... I am planning on putting a piece of 2"x2" square tubing between the frame and the axle to get a little lift on the trailer. There are lots if threads discussing the benefits/drawbacks of this. ...
Just as an FYI, Dexter has a factory lift kit for their axles, just bolt it on.
Here is the link for the #9 kit. They make lift kits to fit their #9, #10, #11 & #12 axles Lift Kits
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:37 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Borrego Dave View Post
Not a bad idea Jay to a lift. I did a 3" lift that I bought from Perfect Casita because I got tired of dragging the bumper and yes, my axle is good. We've got pretty deep driveway aprons and intersections around here. It does help if you can go through them at a 45* angle but.....not always. It did change the step hight but we haven't taken a header yet . BTW, I haven't seen any difference to handling or mileage by having the SD 3" taller, even in crosswinds.
Dave, I am really glad you told me you have a 3" lift. i actually have 2x3 thickwalled square tubing sitting in my workshop but I was afraid that 3" would be too much. You have definitely given me something to think about.
Jay
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:54 PM   #14
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Jay, before you cut any tubing I would suggest you go to Little Casitas web site and look at how they designed their kits. The bolt design is good and the tube has a lot longer surface contact between the frame and axle. Maybe to spread the weight out a bit more (?). I don't know what the wall thickness is but it is a lot thicker than the frame.
The kit was easy to install and I didn't have help. Funny thing was unbolting the axle bolts. Two broke loose with a long cheater bar but the others....well a 1" impact gun and a few unkind words later they finally gave up . As my egg has always been in the SW there is no rust on the frame. If my axle had been toast I would have ordered a new Dexter with more lift. I wasn't concerned about the added height or wind resistance. It tracks and handles the same as it did before, even through some pretty good cross winds.
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Old 12-19-2014, 10:50 AM   #15
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Trailer: 1973 13' Boler
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Gutting the trailer

I am now gutting the trailer and wondering if there is a need to brace up the ceiling while doing this? I see pictures braced and without.

Cheers
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Old 12-19-2014, 02:25 PM   #16
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You definitely will need to brace it up. I believe my 13' Scamp deluxe 1990 came without the brace from the kitchen sink countertop to the roof (I've seen pictures of the same floor plan others have owned without the support). Our roof was sagging and the cupboards were separating from each other. I jacked up the roof and added a support, which took care of the cupboard separation and the roof sagging. There are many postings of the need of supporting cabinets/cupboards, especially near the door, as it will not seal properly when the body starts to sag. Note, the body may look good at rest, but when going down the Hwy, it does a lot of flexing.
Dave & Paula
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Old 12-19-2014, 05:52 PM   #17
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David, sorry for the confusion but I was only concerned about support while I gut and rebuild it. When I complete that the supports are going back in.
Cheers
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Old 12-19-2014, 05:52 PM   #18
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David, sorry for the confusion but I was only concerned about support while I gut and rebuild it. When I complete that the supports are going back in.
Cheers
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Old 12-19-2014, 11:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keaner View Post
I am now gutting the trailer and wondering if there is a need to brace up the ceiling while doing this? I see pictures braced and without.

Cheers
Unless you have it undercover and no chance of a snow load on the roof then the answer is yes!
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Old 12-20-2014, 08:54 AM   #20
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The 17's have leaf springs and ours has lots of clearance even with the large offset on the axle. Know of a local 17' boler is so low I wonder if it has much suspension left.

I transgress wanted to say brakes are a good idea to add; if you are fixing your suspension anyway; If you travel a lot you may need them as rules differ from area to area depending on the tow vehicle size.

Still they may not be required as your trailer is so small and light personally feel after having them you will likely not want to be without electric brakes in the future. The expense is well worth the peace of mind.

Extra cost for both of the brake units, deep cycle battery if you do not have one and wiring changes that include a controller.
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