79 trillium 4500 'bucking' - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 12-19-2014, 03:10 PM   #15
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What about coupler?

Thanks all! I'm trying a bunch of these solutions. Will report back.

Also, the coupler is the original and is rusty and loose. I assume it should be a little loose so it can lock into place. But should I get that replaced? Could that cause this?


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Old 12-19-2014, 03:57 PM   #16
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Once it's locked onto the ball, it shouldn't be loose. There may be an adjustment on it. If not (or if it's too rusty to budge), a new one may be best.

To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven... --Ecclesiastes 3
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Old 12-19-2014, 04:28 PM   #17
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I'm with Mike. Once you lock that coupler down it should be snug with no play.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:25 AM   #18
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
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Well, there often is some play between the receiver and the stinger. Which you can buy a clamp for.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:38 AM   #19
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Name: Glenn
Trailer: Trillium 1300
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...but all of those are symptoms, not the cause. Any setup will rattle a little when unweighted, such as over bumps. Get it level and weight biased to the front first.

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Old 12-22-2014, 03:33 PM   #20
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Name: Larry & Joyce
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 1300
Fergus Ontario
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Is it possible that you're hooking up a 1 7/8" ball to a 2" receiver? I.E, is there too much play in the hitch? That would cause some rattling if not outright causing the trailer to detach itself.
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Old 12-23-2014, 10:28 AM   #21
Name: Dale
Trailer: Trillium
Posts: 76
I pull my 4500 comfortably with a vw jetta, something funny is going on if you're getting that much bucking. I wouldn't jump straight to replacing axles tho, start with the cheap/easy stuff.

I'd go tow vehicle back,
1) is the receiver hitch tight on the tow vehicle? (i used to have one that would move making noises that sounded way worst than they should have)
2) is the ball the right size for the trailer?
3) is the coupler adjusted properly for the ball
4) do you have enough tongue weight? (mine pulls better with a battery and propane tanks mounted)
5) tire pressure? free to check
6) suspension condition
7) Frame condition
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:51 PM   #22
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Name: Claire
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 4500
British Columbia
Posts: 214
One more point to add to Dales.
8. Is the Ball on tight.

We had a horrible first week towing in the cascades and discovered that our ball was coming loose. Tightened it up and no more bucking!
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Old 01-25-2015, 09:50 PM   #23
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Name: Walter
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British Columbia
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79 trillium 4500 'bucking'

Also your Jeep is a unibody. As a result any slop in the connection sounds really loud compared to an older body on frame. I always use a hitch clamp on a unibody.

Also tighten the coupler with the hitch removed from the tow vehicle. Clamp the coupler to the hitch, keep tightening the coupler nut until there is just enough friction on the ball it starts to resisted moving with hand pressure on the hitch. Then try the latch a couple times. If latch isn't working smoothly, very slightly loosen off the nut until the latch works every time. This is the perfect clamping force

But my money is on hitch hight and hitch weight.

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Old 02-09-2015, 12:17 AM   #24
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Name: Oscar
Trailer: Trillium 4500 Jubilee 1979
Posts: 55
My 1979 4500 original axle that was removed had 1200 stamped on it.
I believe the axle was minimal.
Bucking was always a problem; with LOTS of weight forward it lessened.
After installing the Timbren Axle-less Axle we've been on two trips and the trailer is not bucking. First noticed going over a rail track which would have had the trailer airborne before. Potholes did the same. It is safer now and I wish I had thrown out the 36 year old axle when it was "straightened".

This should link to the post.. Offroad best axle?
Offroad washboard best axle?
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:33 AM   #25
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Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1977, 1978 (2), 1300 - 1977, 1973, and a 1972
Posts: 5,281
My 1978 4500 had 2000lbs stamped on it

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