A Better RV Plug - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-24-2011, 12:05 AM   #15
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George,
I'm curious. Have you actually seen this yourself on a 12V system? I haven't. Usually you just end up with an open. I've seen similar on a 220V AC circuit because the voltage was sufficient to create an arc across a corroded contact. I guess it could happen on 12V, but it seems less likely. If you have first hand knowledge I'd like to hear

David
On my previous towing vehicle the wiring harness, about 6” in front of the trailer plug was hot enough that some of the insulation was melted and fried and the plug’s plastic body just crumbled. The 12V wire was undersized. I smelled something burning which caught my attention. There was no fire because there was no combustible material nearby.

As an example that fire is possible in low voltage circuitry is use of flame retardant material in most Printed Circuit Boards (such as FR-4) and it is required by law. Epoxy resin used in FR-4 material is brominated with special compounds. I have seen several charcoaled PCBs due to heat, not arcing.
George.
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:11 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidSo View Post
George,
I'm curious. Have you actually seen this yourself on a 12V system? I haven't. Usually you just end up with an open. I've seen similar on a 220V AC circuit because the voltage was sufficient to create an arc across a corroded contact. I guess it could happen on 12V, but it seems less likely. If you have first hand knowledge I'd like to hear

David

He may not have, but I have. Both 120Volt systems, and 12 volt systems.
There was a recall recently because of a defective switch I believe. High resistance and high current = high heat.

Now something was mentioned about charging current from the tow. Lets see, about 12 ' of wire and maybe 3 to 5 amps of charge current which drops down about a bit. The difference between wire gauges, voltage drops, and the charge on the house battery how big?
If your battery is a sealed battery a smaller wire gauge might actually improve the life of the battery by not charging too fast.
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Old 11-24-2011, 01:15 AM   #17
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Another point on over sized wires. The terminals on connectors like the 7 blade connector are design for a size of wire. Trying to make an over sized wire work you open things up to connector corrosion and connection failure.
I would suggest at any rate that you use a good quality dielectric grease one each connection.
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Old 11-25-2011, 07:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidSo
George,
I'm curious. Have you actually seen this yourself on a 12V system? I haven't. Usually you just end up with an open. I've seen similar on a 220V AC circuit because the voltage was sufficient to create an arc across a corroded contact. I guess it could happen on 12V, but it seems less likely. If you have first hand knowledge I'd like to hear

David
I have seen it. I was using 40 Amp connectors and probably pulling 25 amps when iI keyed up my Icom 706, and about 5 amps when not keying the mic. The issue was the wire, which while sized correctly, was a heavy gauge 10 guage and stiff enough wire that it prevented the contacts from full seating. The resistance went high and it started to melt the connectors.
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