A "no drop" ball mount? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-14-2016, 06:54 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by ZachO View Post
I don't think any of those would work with my anti-sway bar. It has one of these coming off my mount, so a ball permanently mounted on the hitch isn't going to work. I need to be able to mount that between the ball and ball mount.

The mount I have is 2" drop, 1" rise (or 3/4" depending on what description you look at...) so I need something more flat than that.

Jon, do you know where you got yours? I think I saw something like what I want but it was for a 2 1/2" hitch I think...
Did you look at the one I linked to, at Harbor Freight? Seems like it would work fine with your sway control bracket. You may need a ball with a longer shank, that's all.
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:11 PM   #16
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Years ago, I read in my Coleman pop-up manual that it is better to have the rear end low rather than high. The adverse handling and sway is increased with the tail high. On this forum, some say the opposite. Question: Does any FGRV manual state that the tongue should be low if not level? Think about this: more weight on the hitch is less on the steering! What manual says what?
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:24 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim G. - Ohio View Post
Years ago, I read in my Coleman pop-up manual that it is better to have the rear end low rather than high. The adverse handling and sway is increased with the tail high. On this forum, some say the opposite. Question: Does any FGRV manual state that the tongue should be low if not level? Think about this: more weight on the hitch is less on the steering! What manual says what?

This is an easy question to answer. No mention in manual.
If the nose is high the forward movement with have a tendency to trap air under the trailer and thus a tendency to lift the trailer. Which then takes weight off the tongue.

With the nose low more air pressure on top could do the same thing. However with the design of many molded fiberglass trailers it appears to me that the air pressure under the flat surface of the bottom would be higher than the pressure on the top of a rounded surface.

But then what do I know I'm just an engineer.
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:43 PM   #18
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There is nothing wrong with purchasing one at Walmart, trying it out on the parking lot and then returning for the right one, otherwise your garage will be full of unused stingers as attested by my 6-9 piece collection.
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:47 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by ZachO View Post
I don't think any of those would work with my anti-sway bar. It has one of these coming off my mount, so a ball permanently mounted on the hitch isn't going to work. I need to be able to mount that between the ball and ball mount.

.
I have one of those as well and it works great when switching between trailers with different drawbars and ball sizes & wanting to take the anti sway bar along .... but if you only tow that one trailer, you could ditch it and once you find a ball mount with the correct drop take it to a welder and have them weld the anti sway bar plate to it... thats what most people do anyways.
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Old 05-14-2016, 11:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim G. - Ohio View Post
Years ago, I read in my Coleman pop-up manual that it is better to have the rear end low rather than high. The adverse handling and sway is increased with the tail high. On this forum, some say the opposite. Question: Does any FGRV manual state that the tongue should be low if not level? Think about this: more weight on the hitch is less on the steering! What manual says what?
Funny I have been towing various types of trailers for many years and had never been given that advise.

I believe that most here subscribe to getting the trailer as level if not possible then make it to lower rather than high. An inch out of level is not going to do much harm. Having it to high will but to much weight behind the trailers axle which will cause sway.

If you go to the hitch and ball mount manufactures sites most have instructions as to how to choose the correct ball mount and the ones I have read suggest the goal is a level trailer. When measuring what ball mount you require - take into account most vehicles will drop about an 1" with trailer connected and sitting at level.

But having the tongue to low will/can also have a negative impact on the towing experience. The additional weight that puts to the rear of the vehicle could/can result in poor handling of the vehicle (to much weight taken off the front end of the vehicle) and possibly impact braking as well.
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Old 05-15-2016, 06:14 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Jim G. - Ohio View Post
Years ago, I read in my Coleman pop-up manual that it is better to have the rear end low rather than high. The adverse handling and sway is increased with the tail high. On this forum, some say the opposite. Question: Does any FGRV manual state that the tongue should be low if not level? Think about this: more weight on the hitch is less on the steering! What manual says what?
Here is an article by popular mechanics that covers a lot, scroll to #4 for this specific topic

The Right Way to Tow a Trailer
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Old 05-15-2016, 09:38 AM   #22
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Did you look at the one I linked to, at Harbor Freight? Seems like it would work fine with your sway control bracket. You may need a ball with a longer shank, that's all.
My bad. Looking back at that mount, I see what you mean... the ball is welded to the tube! Shucks. I didn't realize that.

Well, gosh. All you really would need is the 2" tube, and drill holes for your ball shank to fit into, right? Seems like it would be easy to make or modify one.
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Old 05-15-2016, 10:21 AM   #23
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I have the no rise mount and welded a "tab" on the side, sourced from my local hitch shop, for my sway bar. This is not that tough, people have been towing for years and have already blazed all these trails.
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Old 05-15-2016, 02:21 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by ZachO View Post
I don't think any of those would work with my anti-sway bar. It has one of these coming off my mount, so a ball permanently mounted on the hitch isn't going to work. I need to be able to mount that between the ball and ball mount.

The mount I have is 2" drop, 1" rise (or 3/4" depending on what description you look at...) so I need something more flat than that.

Jon, do you know where you got yours? I think I saw something like what I want but it was for a 2 1/2" hitch I think...
Try WalMart's RV section. Or, a trailer shop. Or a Farm & Home store. they have a good selection of hitches and balls. Ya pays your money and takes your pick!
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Old 05-15-2016, 03:04 PM   #25
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Alright, thanks everyone. Looks like I have some options. I haven't checked local shops yet only because I feel like if there were an already manufactured mount like what I'm looking for, it would be on etrailer or the internet in general. Since I don't see one, I have trouble believing a local shop would have one. But a local shop could definitely fabricate one. That's a good suggestion.

I'll bet my 1" (or 3/4") rise mount will be perfect once I put 15" wheels on the trailer. But my current tires are brand new so that'll be a little while.

Carol, the adjustable mount you mentioned would probably work. For some reason I don't like those...but I should probably just get over it

For the back of the trailer being high vs low, I can say that low isn't good. My experience with towing the trailer home when I first bought it is that with the weight to the back of the trailer, it kind of "drifts" a lot. It bounces around on it's own, pulls back against the truck, and is generally less stable. It's kind of just floating there on it's own, almost at times pulling up on the ball/truck.

When leaning forward, it's not just floating on its own suspension. It's also leaning on the ball so there's another point of contact, and more stability. Like people mentioned, too much of that and it's starting to lift the front of the tow vehicle and that isn't good either.

So in my mind and limited experience, the advice to tow flat or leaning slightly forward makes the most sense.
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:32 PM   #26
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Oh, I know what you need: a bit more rear-end sag on the truck! Just load a couple of sand bags back there and the trailer will be level!
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:39 PM   #27
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Yep Actually if I just took out my rear air bags I'd be all set...But no thanks.
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Old 05-15-2016, 09:06 PM   #28
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Scamp says that for a Scamp13 the height should be 18" to the top of the ball.
Mine is 14 inch to the top of the ball to be level.

I found a lot of what is in scamp video is wrong.
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