Adding Brakes

[LyleB]

My Scamp 13 does not have brakes, nor brake flanges. It is a 1999 model.

While the axle does not appear to be totally toast yet (the wheel well opening is still riding substantially above the rim of the wheel), I'm wondering about the best course of action for me to pursue.

I want to add brakes, but will need to have flanges added to the existing axles in order to do this. I have a local shop that is actually a fabricating business that works on farm trailers (and some travel trailers) and other farm equipment on a regular basis - experienced welders/fabricators.

My question, would it make any sense to have brakes added to my current axle, or would it be a lot wiser to bite the bullet and have an entire new axle installed?

How much longer can I anticipate that this current axle will last?

I've heard that Scamp factory will change out the axle for a very reasonable amount ($500) and I'm quite certain the local shop would be more expensive, but it would save me a trip to Minnesota.

What would you do? What are your thoughts?

[tractors1]

I'd replace the whole assembly with a new axle that has brakes. Look for any identifying numbers (or just ask Scamp for the recommended part number and manufacturer) as any RV shop can order it and change it out. If you're near a trailer shop they certainly could.

[Bruce H]

I would not try to add flanges and brakes to the old axle. New ones are not that expensive. If you can come up with a cross reference for axle size, over slung, under slung, etc. from Scamp to Dexter (and Scamp may already use Dexter axles) then you can price shop on the internet. It depends on how mechanical you are but changing out an axle is not rocket science. You do have to jack the trailer up off the ground and block up it well enough that it won't fall on you when you get under it. I smoked a bearing on a Bigfoot trailer and changed it myself. But I took the old axle off and took it to my Dexter supplier, AA Wheel and Truck Supply. They measured it and got the correct one with brakes from their warehouse under $200. You will have to wire the brakes. But you can list the used axle on craigslist and recover part of the cost.

[Jack L]

The brake flanges have to be in perfect alignment with the spindles and hubs. I'm sure the factory uses fixtures and jigs to get this correct.

[LyleB]

Ok, thanks everyone.

Consensus seems to be forget about adding brakes to current axle and just bite the bullet for new axle. Pretty much what I thought I would hear. Makes more sense to go ahead and get the new axle now, rather than a couple/three years down the road.

Think I'll call Scamp tomorrow and see what they say for price and scheduling. Can then compare to the local shop.

I have NO welding experience, limited mechanical talents, so I will gladly pay someone else to do the work.

[Raz]

Good choice. A trip to the Scamp factory will be fun. You can see how your trailer was built and go to the parts store to stock up for future projects Good luck, Raz

[CampyTime]

On a 99 you've already got just shy of 17 years on that axle. Def agree with others go the new axle route.

Whether to have installed by local shop or Scamp depends on cost differences and your desire to travel to factory. If it's not much different in cost and you desire a road trip, I think it would be fun to travel to factory. I would love to but I'm many miles away.

As P. Raz says, you will probably get inspired for new projects after the visit...but that's so much a part of the fun!

Best wishes,
Wendy


Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV

[Donna D.]

The axle is probably welded to the frame. During this change, have the brackets welded to the frame and then the axle becomes a bolt on. Although you may not care, the next time the axle needs to be changed it can be done in the driveway rather than needed to go to a shop. I think that's a good feature!


Best of luck!

[Raz]

Donna makes a good point. While folks with welded axles have gotten along just fine, should there be a warranty issue, removal of a welded axle is on you. Further, Scamp is now using a different axle supplier, Lippert. That may effect your decision to go to the factory. Raz

[LyleB]

WOW!

Was Scamp ever helpful.

I just got off the phone with them.

Cost of new axle with brakes: $455
Cost of install: $210
Total: $665

Should take about 3-4 hours. They can do it immediately (they have schedule openings), as soon as I can get the trailer to the factory - just make an appointment.

If I choose to have local shop install, they can ship the axle to me for approximately $50-$100, depending on my location. They have the axle in stock and could conceivably ship it today. Told me the waiting time from the axle manufacturer is approximately 6 weeks, so getting from them would save time.

Now I just have to take the Scamp to my local shop and see what they can propose.

If I get it from Scamp, I will probably have them install a fantastic fan as well. Said that would take an extra 2 hours.

By the way, the Scamp folks agreed with all of you - makes little sense not to replace the entire axle at this point.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by LyleB

WOW!

Was Scamp ever helpful.

I just got off the phone with them.

Cost of new axle with brakes: $455
Cost of install: $210
Total: $665

And that includes the cost to wire, right?

[LyleB]

I'm assuming so Donna, but will check before making appointment.

I would assume that a quote for adding brakes to a trailer without brakes, would have to include the wiring. I made it clear that that was the purpose for the axle change.

[Donna D.]

It's important to make certain. Between the time you contacted them for a quote and the work is done, much can be lost in the communication. Maybe I'm a worry-wort, but I really like to know what I assume is the same as reality when it involves money. YMMV

[Marty Smiltneek]

I have a 1972 Boler that has the original axel in place. I see no reason to test or measure just replace with new as I am positive the old axel is shot. I contacted Scamp they will ship the axel to me (Wisconsin) all up for less than $400.00. I have a weld shop and am not afraid of the conversion. I thought about brakes but opted to do them later as I have Mustang 2 ET slotted mags. that I love on a 4 on 4 pattern. I will do what I have to when I convert to brakes. I know it is more expensive but I love the mag look on the old boler. It also matches the future tug wheels and I can't resist. "It's not about the money just the cool factor."

Marty

[EllPea in CA]

Whoaa, Marty, what is the rack on your Boler??? How is it mounted? Do you carry stuff up there?

Originally Posted by Marty Smiltneek

I have a 1972 Boler that has the original axel in place. I see no reason to test or measure just replace with new as I am positive the old axel is shot. I contacted Scamp they will ship the axel to me (Wisconsin) all up for less than $400.00. I have a weld shop and am not afraid of the conversion. I thought about brakes but opted to do them later as I have Mustang 2 ET slotted mags. that I love on a 4 on 4 pattern. I will do what I have to when I convert to brakes. I know it is more expensive but I love the mag look on the old boler. It also matches the future tug wheels and I can't resist. "It's not about the money just the cool factor."

Marty

[LyleB]

Sweet looking little trailer, Marty.

I oft times wish I had learned to be more mechanically inclined, but for now I know just about enough to think that I am somewhat protected from the totally unscrupulous who are out there. At least that's what I tell myself.

[Marty Smiltneek]

Oh yeah, the rack - - - 1" x 2.125" Stainless Steel rectangular tube with 1.5"x1.5" Stainless posts setting on 10 gauge formed plates that conform to the roofline. The rack has no uplift so a single 1/4" bolt with a large Stainless fender washer from the interior through the shell from the inside holds it on nicely. For added assurance I sandblasted the mating surface of the Stainless support pads and glued the rack to the top of the camper with white RTV. I carry a 17' canoe or 2 Old Town Loons (138 & 120 size). The rack also has some attachments that are part of my unfinished canopy idea. Just one of those projects that gets a life of it's own that get to a certain point and stop. I have been camping all of my life and have supported myself as an inventor / automation & management specialist for years. I am currently trying to replace the original furnace with a Suburban NT 16 and the axle before April 28th camping (cooler on the lake) meet. I can post other photos of the rack at any time. I plan to make some attachments to better support the kayaks inverted as they can get heavy in a downpour with the cockpits open facing up.

Marty

[LyleB]

Just got off the phone with Scamp. I ordered a new axle, should ship out on Mon or Tues. Lippert, 2200 lb, with brakes. $445 plus shipping.

I found a reasonably close Trailer Shop that quoted me a price of $110 to remove the old and install the new. Wiring the brakes will be additional, based on time involved.

Still want to get a quote from the really local shop, will do that next week. Scamp said I should have the axle here at my house by the end of next week, so I'll definitely be in great shape for hitting the road come spring.

[LyleB]

Just an update, if anyone's interested.

I dropped off my Scamp at the Fabricating Shop that is a couple of miles from my house this morning. They will remove the old axle, install the new and wire the brakes/lights to the 7-pin plug.

I also asked them to check the frame at the bend while they have it on the lift. The owner said he will just go ahead and add some reinforcement plates while they have it in the shop, should be cheap insurance.

He guessed it should be done later today. I gave them Scamp's Service Department's phone number in case they have any questions regarding the install. Figured Scamp would be accommodating, since I bought the axle through them.

I also have a break away switch ordered through Amazon, but it won't get here until tomorrow, so I guess I'll install that myself.

Other than a new spare tire (current one is old and severely cracked with dry rot) the trailer should be good to go, and legal wherever I want to take it as soon as the weather gets nice. The current running tires look good and are only 3 years old, so will be fine for now.