Advice for first tow ever? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-07-2016, 04:55 PM   #29
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Name: sharon
Trailer: Scamp
Virginia
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Rebecca, I had a tire blow on my trip home with my egg. then I learned the jack for my truck didn't go small enough to go under the egg, & the lug nuts on the egg aren't the same as my truck. Thank God for that NC state trooper - he had a small jack, the right wrench & the patience of a saint! I would suggest a day trip (changing a tire at 2 am is not fun), stick to populated roads (in case you need help), bring a camper jack, multi-head lug wrench, an air pump, maybe bring a co-pilot for support, & go slow (an empty egg bounces all over the place!).
like the trooper said, "you got this for the adventure, right?"
good luck!
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Old 07-07-2016, 07:05 PM   #30
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Great plans

[QUOTE=Rebecca3;579882]I will be towing with a 2008 Subaru Outback 4 cyl (114K miles), which runs well, and have purchased a 2012 Scamp 16 with A/C. Scamp dealer said I should be OK. Car rating is 2700 lbs, 200 on the hitch. I'll be picking it up by myself and will ensure it is as empty as possible so I can get an idea of how it'll all work. I have to tow it home first (about 700 miles). Then I will use the trailer for 3 month volunteer jobs at wildlife refuges. I started out shopping for Scamp 13s but ended up with a 16, which I think will work better for my type of use, plus I can get a different tow vehicle down the road if I need/want to.

I have never towed before and am watching all kinds of youtube videos to learn to tow. I'm having elect. and a brake controller installed this week. Will pick up the trailer in 2 weeks. I'm not sure how to use the brake so will research this...

Should I take it to a nearby RV dealership first to have them look over the hitch and setup before I leave the seller area? The seller said she'd take it in before I get there to be sure the tires are inflated properly.

I'll try to avoid rush hour traffic in any cities on the way... I will take my time and go slowly and carefully.

Anything else I should think about?[/QUOTE

We us a WD system with a sway bar they have models made for your size of trailer and they really help. The equalizer style is easyer as you can leave it hooked up while backing up.

Also consider having them check the trailers tires as they maybe car tires or just old. ST r Special trailer radials are made for the job at hand but not all will agree with purchasing the correct tire type. Include a new spare tire in your purchase
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Old 07-12-2016, 02:36 PM   #31
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There is a lot to learn on this thread.
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Old 07-16-2016, 10:35 PM   #32
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Name: Chad
Trailer: boler
Alberta
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Towing with a Subaru

Hey Rebecca,

I've just purchased my first camper, a 13' Boler I may soon refer to as the Money Pit II, and my toe vehicle is a 2011 Subaru Impreza wagon. The Boler has just received a new axle with brakes, two new rims and tires, and I have my car outfitted with a brake controller. The brake controller works well, but my biggest annoyance is the "tugging" that occurs when I go over bumps and waves in the road. I've been reassured that this is due to the size of my car (weight and length) and that despite the tongue sitting slightly down towards the hitch, my experience is normal. It's really a different feeling though, so be warned.

If I'm not satisfied, I'll be upgrading my TV to a 2016 Outback that should be more than capable of handling our little Boler. Good luck with your new camper!
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Old 07-16-2016, 11:53 PM   #33
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The "tugging" could be caused by too little weight on the tongue (which can cause other more serious problems). I'd check the tongue weight.

You might also check whether the drawbar has any play in the receiver.
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Old 07-17-2016, 03:47 PM   #34
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Name: Chad
Trailer: boler
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13' boler and Subaru Impreza

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
The "tugging" could be caused by too little weight on the tongue (which can cause other more serious problems). I'd check the tongue weight.

You might also check whether the drawbar has any play in the receiver.
Sorry to hijack this thread, I'll be starting my own... but as for tongue weight, my boler is pitched forward quite a bit from level so I'm sure that if anything my tongue weight would be higher than it should be. I'm searching for ways to level out the boler with the hope that it will smooth out the tow. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 07-17-2016, 04:03 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Cheech00TS View Post
I'm searching for ways to level out the boler with the hope that it will smooth out the tow. Thanks for the suggestion.
You should not need to search to hard or far.

Simple park the car on level ground. Measure from the ground to the top of the ball & add 1" to that (to allow for the vehicle to drop with the trailers weight). Now park the trailer on level ground and level it. Measure it to the top of the coupler. The difference will tell you how much or a rise or drop you will need on your hitch.

In your case I am going to suggest its a ball receiver with a rise (maybe as much as a 4" or more) you are after. Available at most Walmarts. Keep in mind most receivers with a drop can be mounted upside down for a rise - the rise spec is usually less than the drop though.
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Old 07-17-2016, 05:18 PM   #36
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Advice for first tow ever?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheech00TS View Post
...but as for tongue weight, my boler is pitched forward quite a bit from level so I'm sure that if anything my tongue weight would be higher than it should be...
Getting the attitude level is good, but I doubt it will stop the tugging, since you're already nose-down. I really think you need to investigate your tongue weight. What is mounted on the tongue at this point?

Got a bathroom scale? As long as it goes to 250 pounds or more, you should be able to measure TW directly by setting the base of the jack on a board on the scale. I would expect 125-150 pounds for an empty trailer; and 150-200 pounds fully loaded for camping.

Better yet, take the whole trailer to a commercial scale and weigh it. The tongue weight should be 10-12% of the total weight of the trailer.

All that said, my empty trailer does buck a bit, even with a battery and propane tank on the tongue. The short ball-to-axle distance make it more prone to pitching movements. It smooths out noticeably when loaded. A device to tighten the drawbar in the receiver helps, too.
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