[QUOTE=rdf0011;713068]All,
1. If I go to a straight axle setup from the 4'' drop, do I need to replace the other components as well (spindles,
brakes, etc), or can I use the same components from the drop axle? Is this true still if I change axle brands (go from a Standens Axle to a Dexter for instance)?
The brake, bearing and hub components are interchangeable from brand to brand. From your photo you have 6 lug wheels, so you should also have 12 inch
brakes. If everything is in good shape, these should be reusable
4. If I elect to flip the axle (rather than go straight axle), what do I do with the spring center that's currently beneath the axle? Is it cut off then re-welded on the top of the axle, or is it best to purchase another spring center to go on top of the axle?
Spring perches are not expensive so buying new ones would be best. If you flip the drop axle, you do not get any more ground clearance. You do raise the frame and body, but the axle tube is still the same distance from the ground. If you will be going down unimproved roads, this is not ideal.
5. Raspy mentioned the possibility of mounting the drop axle "upside down". I presume this would give about an 8'' lift, even if I kept the springs mounted beneath the axle as they currently are- is this a viable option? I'm guessing there must be more to it since nobody else mentioned it before.
I would never consider this for several reasons. I saw a small stickey in Moab a few years ago with this mod. and it was ridiculously tall. Axles usually have a curve in them to give the wheels and
tires some camber and if you did this, your camber would be in the wrong direction aand cause excessive tire edge wear.
Remember that your
Bigfoot has a large frontal area that creates wind resistance and raising the height increases the wind drag. If I has your trailer, I would change to a straight axle mounted above the springs. I modified my 94
Bigfoot 17 this way and I'm happy with the results.