Andersen 3380 'No-Sway' WDH & Parkliner? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-22-2014, 04:59 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
accrete's Avatar
 
Name: Thom
Trailer: Chevy AWD Van Conversion
Astoria Oregon
Posts: 1,015
Registry
just to through out some numbers...
Our tow rig is a lifted 135" WB chevy awd van that weights ~7000lbs at the scales loaded with supplies for two weeks at all times.
Our Parkliner #35 weights 2300lbs fully loaded and has a ~220lb tongue weight.

We use only a ball hitch.

At ~60mph we have only noticed "sway" in gusty situations and with the break controller set to engage the trailer first a simple tap on the brakes has brought things back in line.

The only what-was-i-thinking sway situation came when i passed a class A going up a hill on the coast range and accelerated to over 75 mph to pass. Yea, i know...silly boy. Won't do it again but wowzer was it a rush seeing those white knuckles grabbing the wheel !! and the look on the driver of the bmw behind me when i bolted to pass
__________________

__________________
Blogging from the WET! Coast of Oregon
Bed, Bath, & Beyond...
2010 Chevy Express 1500 AWD Van
Archive: Parkliner #35 build thread
accrete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2014, 05:53 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 571
I ordered:
  • a Hayden Automotive 678 Rapid-Cool Plate and Fin Transmission Cooler with mounting kit and transmission line fitting kit.
  • Reese Towpower 33021 33 Series Class III/IV 2" Square Tube Professional Receiver with Hitch Plug Cover
  • Tekonsha Engineering 90885 Prodigy Brake Control
I need accessory parts to go with these, but the vendors make it hard to figure out exactly what is needed. I'm hoping my mechanic can sort it all out for me.



__________________

__________________
Huck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2014, 06:43 PM   #31
MC1
Senior Member
 
MC1's Avatar
 
Name: Wayne
Trailer: Nest fan, Airstream Sold
Ontario
Posts: 2,006
Huck.... you made some good choices with your hardware selection. Good to see you went with the HD 2" receiver. I'm using the Hayden 679 Rapid-Cool in our car and it has worked great for the last 8 years. Well done.
__________________
MC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2014, 07:24 PM   #32
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck View Post
I ordered:
  • a Hayden Automotive 678 Rapid-Cool Plate and Fin Transmission Cooler with mounting kit and transmission line fitting kit.
  • Reese Towpower 33021 33 Series Class III/IV 2" Square Tube Professional Receiver with Hitch Plug Cover
  • Tekonsha Engineering 90885 Prodigy Brake Control
I need accessory parts to go with these, but the vendors make it hard to figure out exactly what is needed. I'm hoping my mechanic can sort it all out for me.



All good stuff! You will also need a wiring harness for your truck - to plug the trailer into and if it wasn't prewired for towing you may also have to have a line installed for your trailer brakes (maybe one for the battery charge as well). You will also need a wiring harness designed for your truck for the Tekonsha brake controller as well.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2014, 08:54 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 571
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
All good stuff! You will also need a wiring harness for your truck - to plug the trailer into and if it wasn't prewired for towing you may also have to have a line installed for your trailer brakes (maybe one for the battery charge as well). You will also need a wiring harness designed for your truck for the Tekonsha brake controller as well.
This is one area that has me stumped. If it was a newer SUV, I could just buy the wiring kits and plug them in. I'm hoping the mechanic can get what he needs locally to install everything. If not, he can tell me specifically what else I need.
__________________
Huck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2014, 05:22 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
Name: Darrell
Trailer: Scamp 16ft
Alabama
Posts: 206
My Jeep i just had to buy the wire harness, run the wires and installing by plugging in. A few wires to the engine compartment to the battery and to brake controller. Factory wiring harness was complete.. 2005 year vehicle.
__________________
Darrell in Al is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2014, 11:08 AM   #35
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck View Post
This is one area that has me stumped. If it was a newer SUV, I could just buy the wiring kits and plug them in. I'm hoping the mechanic can get what he needs locally to install everything. If not, he can tell me specifically what else I need.
Huck if you search online you will probable find an owners group for your vehicle. Mostly likely to find someone has posted the details on what you need and how to do it. Or do a search for hitch install on the make and year of your vehicle and you may even find a youtube video on it.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2014, 03:00 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck View Post
This is one area that has me stumped. If it was a newer SUV, I could just buy the wiring kits and plug them in. I'm hoping the mechanic can get what he needs locally to install everything. If not, he can tell me specifically what else I need.
You think yours is problematic- I had to start from SCRATCH when I got my Kia wired up...biggest obstacle was convincing the wiring guy that I seriously intended to tow something with the car.

It's really not that complicated if you look at it in its separate parts. (In my case the hardest part turned out to be where to physically locate the controller.) Specialized wiring harnesses aren't really needed, though convenient if available. The job can be done using parts from any autoparts store if they don't already exist in the bottom of your mechanic's toolbox.

If you're confident in your mechanic's wiring ability he'll figure it out just fine.

One thing I remember having to ask for specifically was related to the 12v trailer battery feed line. Some, but not all, such installs include a solenoid like this one that isolates the tug battery from the trailer when the vehicle's shut off. This prevents the trailer draining/using the power in the tug battery when parked. I think this an essential part of the install.
__________________
.................................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 10:05 AM   #37
Senior Member
 
Name: Huck
Trailer: ParkLiner
Virginia
Posts: 571
I know why I was confused about hitch, ball mount, and ball.

The way to figure out what ball mount you need is to install the hitch and measure the height. Then measure height of receiver and subtract the ball size. Subtract this from the hitch height and then you know what ball mount you need.

So I either needed to have the height of the installed hitch from some source or I needed to install it and measure it myself. Then I can buy the correct ball mount.
__________________
Huck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 10:15 AM   #38
MC1
Senior Member
 
MC1's Avatar
 
Name: Wayne
Trailer: Nest fan, Airstream Sold
Ontario
Posts: 2,006
Some things to keep in mind while you are going through the process.

Get the ball as close to the back bumper as possible and when it is all done ready for travel the trailer should sit level or nose slightly down.
Attached Thumbnails
hitch Q45568.jpg  
__________________
MC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 11:05 AM   #39
Senior Member
 
Carol H's Avatar
 
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,731
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck View Post
I know why I was confused about hitch, ball mount, and ball.

The way to figure out what ball mount you need is to install the hitch and measure the height. Then measure height of receiver and subtract the ball size. Subtract this from the hitch height and then you know what ball mount you need.

So I either needed to have the height of the installed hitch from some source or I needed to install it and measure it myself. Then I can buy the correct ball mount.
You have it! I have found its always best to have the hitch installed and then measure it before pick out the right receiver. Ever hitch brand sits a little differently - have had 2 different brands of hitches on my previous tow and they were very different in regards to how the fit the vehicle and how high or low they were. Nothing stopping you from buying the correct ball now though.
Carol H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 02:53 PM   #40
Senior Member
 
Francesca Knowles's Avatar
 
Name: Francesca Knowles
Trailer: '78 Trillium 4500
Jefferson County, Washington State, U.S.A.
Posts: 4,543
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck View Post
I know why I was confused about hitch, ball mount, and ball.

The way to figure out what ball mount you need is to install the hitch and measure the height. Then measure height of receiver and subtract the ball size. Subtract this from the hitch height and then you know what ball mount you need.

So I either needed to have the height of the installed hitch from some source or I needed to install it and measure it myself. Then I can buy the correct ball mount.

You can buy a ball mount at any Walmart/Uhaul etc. I'd wait until the receiver's installed to get true measurements based on your vehicle specifics. Even tug tire size can make a difference!

A very critical bit of information is coupler height of the trailer. Ideally it should ride level. Sometimes dead level isn't achievable, so slightly low is next best. You ought to be able to get that information from Parkliner.

Ball choice is simple- Parkliner has a 2" coupler, so any 2" ball will do....though I'll here say that we have several trailers and really love our interchangeable ball sets. Link
The set allows for quick changes of ball size- one permanently mounted shank, three ball sizes that fit over it.
__________________

__________________
.................................
Propane Facts vs. Fiction:. Click here
Tow Limit Calculator: Click here
Francesca Knowles is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
parkliner


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Andersen Hitch - No Need to Cut that Bigfoot Propane Tank Cover! Jay Moeller Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 11 06-19-2014 10:17 AM
Andersen Weight Distributing Hitches Night Sailor Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 123 08-08-2013 05:19 AM
Andersen w/d hitch cpaharley2008 Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 41 07-06-2013 03:22 PM
WDH and sway control for Scamp 16 ft Tom and Karin Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 8 10-01-2012 04:37 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.