Andersen 3380 'No-Sway' WDH & Parkliner? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-21-2014, 10:39 AM   #1
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Andersen 3380 'No-Sway' WDH & Parkliner?

I need to get a hitch ordered today or tomorrow at latest. I am picking up my Parkliner in a couple of weeks, and a hitch would be a big help! My tow vehicle will be a '96 Chevy Blazer.

Deryk mentioned the Anderson 3380 hitch in an earlier post. Money is an issue, but if an extra $200 means less white knuckling, then it is worth the extra $200.

My questions:
- Is this a good pick? If not, what do you recommend?
- Do I have to buy a separate wiring kit? If so, what do you recommend?

ETA: Just got off the phone with Tom from Parkliner. He says according to Chandler, I don't need weight distribution or sway bars. Any comments?

Thanks
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:12 PM   #2
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Hitch

How far do you need to tow to get it home? you could wait and see. I have a Andersen hitch and love it for my 16' Scamp. I drove my trailer home from Backas to Pa. I noticed sway on the way. Andersen ships fast it doesn't come with wireing. For all my trailer needs I buy from etrailer.com. Do you have a brake controller?
Ken
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Old 01-21-2014, 12:26 PM   #3
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I would wait until you tow it some more to get a feel. W/D or sway control is not always needed. They normally are used to fix a problem that may not exist. Besides, an Andersen runs closer to $500 new.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:32 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Ken in Pa View Post
How far do you need to tow to get it home? you could wait and see. I have a Andersen hitch and love it for my 16' Scamp. I drove my trailer home from Backas to Pa. I noticed sway on the way. Andersen ships fast it doesn't come with wireing. For all my trailer needs I buy from etrailer.com. Do you have a brake controller?
Ken
No, need a brake controller too. I understand why I need these things, just don't have a clue how to select a hitch, wiring, and brake controller.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I would wait until you tow it some more to get a feel. W/D or sway control is not always needed. They normally are used to fix a problem that may not exist. Besides, an Andersen runs closer to $500 new.
I don't have a hitch now, so I have to buy something to tow the trailer back home. What I'm worried about is buying a $200 hitch and then deciding I need to replace it.

I'm having some work done on the Blazer next Monday and my mechanic will install hitch, wiring, and brake controller (and transmission cooler) if I have them available.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:48 PM   #5
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I was looking to tow my 17' Escape with a '94 Ford Explorer. But, I would have had to have a proper hitch, wiring and brake controller installed. Bought a new RAV4 because I didn't want to invest in the Explorer ( low mileage, always serviced ). Gave the Explorer to my daughter. Two weeks later the head gasket blew.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:51 PM   #6
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Huck
Do you have the hitch on the car If you do all you need is the ball mount with the right size ball. This can be had for 25 bucks. The wiring will need to be 7 pin for brakes w a controller. The Andersen can come latter and you are only out 25 dollars. You will still need the other items mentioned.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:54 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Ken in Pa View Post
Huck
Do you have the hitch on the car If you do all you need is the ball mount with the right size ball. This can be had for 25 bucks. The wiring will need to be 7 pin for brakes w a controller. The Andersen can come latter and you are only out 25 dollars. You will still need the other items mentioned.
Ken
No hitch. That's why I need to make a decision before I can pick up the trailer.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:55 PM   #8
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Trust me etrailer.com can guide you in what you need these are some smart cookies to talk to. Just call and ask you can buy latter.
Ken
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:18 PM   #9
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There's no need to make a decision per W/D prior to putting a hitch on a 1996 Blazer. Nearly all the bolt-on 2'' hitch receivers at this Etrailer page, for example, would allow the use of a W/D system, which systems are actually made up of the components one slides into the receiver.

Not sure which 1996 Blazer you have, but tow capacity can be as high as 5500 lbs. Assuming an allowable 10% tongue weight of 550 pounds, the Parkliner shouldn't even squat the rear end, let alone necessitate the "redistribution" of weight from that point to other axles.

If I were in your shoes, I'd buy/install one of those hitches and show up for the trailer with a twenty dollar drawbar (ballmount) with whatever "drop" is appropriate for your Blazer to tow the Parkliner level.

This especially due to the following:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck View Post
ETA: Just got off the phone with Tom from Parkliner. He says according to Chandler, I don't need weight distribution or sway bars. Any comments?

Thanks
Per the above:

I'd give some weight to this opinion, which may in fact be an advisory against the use of weight distribution on the Parkliner. Some folks don't realize that a W/D hitch transfers weight not just to the front of the tug, but back onto the trailer axles as well. Some trailer frames aren't suited to take that extra stress. Trillium, for example specifically warns against the use of W/D for that reason.

Again, I recommend an ordinary ball hitch for the pickup/drive home at least. Take the trip home easy if you're new at this...get a feel for how she tows. You can always add a more complex system later if you decide it's necessary to do so; and onto the hitch receiver you've already purchased. Nothin' wasted except whatever you spend on the drawbar/ballmount.
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:52 PM   #10
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I am no towing expert, but I totally agree with Francesca. Your tow vehicle is up to the task, the manufacturer says you don't need a WDH, and they can be added later, if you do need it. The required 2" receiver that needs to be installed on your Blazer works equally well with or without a WDH. The only part that you would have to replace is the $25 ball and drawbar.
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Old 01-21-2014, 03:59 PM   #11
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Huck... realize the tow rating has little to nothing to do with how well a vehicle will handle a trailer.

The older Blazer has a short 107" wheelbase, sits high (high center of gravity) and has low tech suspension. If Parkliner allows a WDH I would be looking at one for sure. It will add to the safety and ease of towing.

The Adrsn is a new and controversial. I would look at time tested WDH's like Reese, Easy Lift, or Equalizer. Easy Lift is designed to be gentle on the TV and trailer.

If you are new to the towing fray suggest consulting with a towing professional. Getting the connection details right the 1st time sure saves a lot of probable headaches and expense down the road.

Good luck with your towing venture.
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:04 PM   #12
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P.S.

I just looked at the Anderson 3380 and...YIKES- whatever type hitch you decide you need, do not buy this one!

According to this link, that puppy is spec'd for trailers up to 14,000 pounds and 1400 pounds of tongue weight. That is way, wa-a-a-a-y too big/much for a Parkliner. An oversized W/D can cause more problems than it "solves".

If you decide you must have W/D, please select one in the proper weight range...here's one guide to selecting W/D hitch
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huck View Post
No, need a brake controller too. I understand why I need these things, just don't have a clue how to select a hitch, wiring, and brake controller
The Tekonsha P2 Brake Controller always seems to win the most popular contest when the topic comes up here and on other forums. Its worked great for me for the past 6 years and wouldn't hesitate to buy another.
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:19 PM   #14
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[QUOTE=Huck;438191

ETA: Just got off the phone with Tom from Parkliner. He says according to Chandler, I don't need weight distribution or sway bars. Any comments?

Thanks[/QUOTE]

Truth is no one can say that for sure one way or another. A great many here including myself have towed thousands of miles without a WD and a lot don't tow with a Sway bar either and many that do use a sway bar only do so as an added safety item - for that one off situation -which is how it should be. If you need to tow with a sway bar to keep it all inline then something isn't right about your total set up.

Until you hook up the trailer and pull it no one can say that you "have to have" a WD or if you can get away without one. As been suggested the design of your tug may mean you will have a much better tow using a WD but again until you try it you dont really know that for a fact. Just be sure you keep the nose of the trailer level or slightly down when you first pull it to avoid the wag caused by nose up.
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