Andersen Hitch - No Need to Cut that Bigfoot Propane Tank Cover! - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-13-2013, 05:54 PM   #1
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Andersen Hitch - No Need to Cut that Bigfoot Propane Tank Cover!

Yes, you can install a weight distribution hitch and anti-sway mechanism without cutting holes in the sides of a Bigfoot travel trailer propane tank cover.

I installed an Andersen No Sway Weight Distribution Hitch (model 3340) on my 25B17G Bigfoot travel trailer without cutting any holes in the fiberglass propane tank shroud. It was a simple install. I did not even need to remove the tank cover. Simply loosened the cover by removing the 4 screws that attach it to the frame; lift up the cover just enough to slip the WDH brackets in place; and reattach the 4 screws.

TIPS:
I could have used the original 4 self-tapping metal screws, but opted to upgrade to longer rust-proof stainless steel screws. (See photo)

I also inserted nylon spacers between the propane tank cover and the frame to reduce the stress of bending the fiberglass propane tank cover. (See photo)

I added a link to each of the the Andersen WHD chains to extend the chains to 31 inches. This allowed me to easily install the Andersen brackets to the Bigfoot frame between the battery mount and the propane tank mount without moving the Bigfoot's breakaway emergency brake controller. (See photo)

Locate the Andersen brackets close on the frame close to the battery mount If the brackets are installed too close to the propane tank (like in the photo)
the large screws on the Andersen bracket may prevent the propane tanks from sitting correctly in the propane tank bracket. If you make this mistake you will need to reinstall the Andersen brackets closer to the battery mount or move the propane tank bracket closer to the body of the travel trailer - which is what I did.
Attached Thumbnails
Andersen WDH on Bigfoot 17.jpg   Andersen WDH on Bigfoot 17 parts.jpg  

Andersen WDH on Bigfoot 17 bracket placement.jpg  
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:30 AM   #2
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One more Andersen WDH installation tip

Another tip - To reduce the possibility of damage to the fiberglass around the 4 screw holes in the fiberglass propane tank cover I used #10 stainless steel washers on the exterior of each hole before inserting the #10 screw.
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:31 PM   #3
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Name: Brad
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Arizona
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Looking at a new Bigfoot 25RB. When you reinstalled the FG cover, how much bend is there? Your install looks great, but is the cover seated as designed? Like the Anderson, and may upgrade from the Equalizer 1,000k set-up that we already own. Suggestions?
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:53 PM   #4
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Yes, there is a slight bow in the propane tank cover where the bolt heads of the Andersen brackets are located. It is barely noticeable due to the rounded nose shape of the cover.

It sounds like you may be concerned about stress to the propane cover caused by the bolt heads on the Andersen frame brackets. People tell me that I am overly particular about quality materials and installing things right the first time. If I thought there was any danger of stress cracking I would have cut 2 inch holes for the bolt heads rather than form the propane cover over them. However, as always, you be the judge.

When you get your Bigfoot you will notice that the propane cover is screwed directly to the frame with two self-tapping iron sheet metal screws (see photo). Although, there was no gap between the cover and the frame originally, there was some stress to the cover. If you remove the two screws and allow the fiberglass cover to "relax", a 1/2 to 3/4 inch gap will develop between the fiberglass cover and the frame.

After installation of my Andersen, at the location of the Andersen frame bracket bolt heads, there is a 1.5 inch gap between the fiberglass cover and the frame. And, at the fore and aft areas of the cover where the new stainless steel metal screws are located there is a 5/8 inch gap that I created with nylon spacers to reduce stress. So, rather than the cover being bowed inward originally 1/2 to 3/4 inch from it "relaxed" position, it is now bowed outward 1/8 to 3/4 from its "relaxed" position.

The cover does not feel or look stressed. There is still room for more flex. A local fiberglass boat repairman told me that it's possible that hot summer days may mold the fiberglass cover to its current shape, in the same manner that fiberglass roofs will sometimes warp under the weight of heavy AC units.

One more suggestion: The original sheet metal screws that Bigfoot installed in 2005 were rusted into the frame and had to be drilled out. I suggest that you replace the screws on your Bigfoot with stainless steel screws to prevent the them from rusting to the frame, and use "Never Seize" to prevent the frame from rusting to the screw.
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Old 10-22-2013, 10:18 PM   #5
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Name: Brad
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Thanks for the clarification, this seems to be the first "no cut" WDH. I assumed that the double thickness of my Equalizer brackets (bracket + L bracket) would prevent your method with the cover, and require a cut.
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:13 PM   #6
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Name: Francois
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I don't understand how those work....how does the weight get "distributed" if there is no bars?? just those horizontal chains.... I don't get it
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:39 AM   #7
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There are a number of blogs on this website and other RV forums (Airforums.com, Jaycoowners.com) where travel trailer owners have theorized the physics of the Andersen. I am not an engineer and cannot explain it. I can say that when I tightened the tension on the chains during the initial set up, the tail of the Toyota Tundra and front of the Bigfoot lifted upward resulting in a level truck and trailer. Tightening the chains seems to me to be analogous to tightening the string on an archery bow. Tightening the bow string (chains) causes the archer's bow (truck and trailer) to bend upward.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:12 PM   #8
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Name: Lyle
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
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Hi,

Thanks for the post. Just bought the andersen hitch. On my 2005 17
CB, the ground wire lug is located between the battery and propane platforms that does not give room for the left hand bracket. Did you relocate the wiring and ground lug?
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:25 AM   #9
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I will take a photo of that area and post it later today.
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Old 06-18-2014, 08:59 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franswa View Post
I don't understand how those work....how does the weight get "distributed" if there is no bars?? just those horizontal chains.... I don't get it
The Andrsn's do struggle with distributing weight and in many cases barely distribute enough. Because of their design they also put a lot of stress on the trailer's coupler. Some couplers are not compatible with the Andrsen and cannot be used. The rumor mill has it that there is an Andrsn II in the works that hopefully will address the many design shortcomings.
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Old 06-18-2014, 11:55 PM   #11
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See the attached photos. The photo on the left is taken from above. The second photo is taken from below.

I positioned the drivers side bracket between the propane shelf and the breakaway switch. I do not remember moving a grounding lug. However, the Anderson brackets were installed several months, and many projects ago. Is the blue wire the one that you are referring to? If a grounding lug was in the way I likely moved it by attaching it to another preexisting screw. Maybe I used one of the screws holding the breakaway switch?
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photo (3).jpg   photo (2).jpg  

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Old 06-19-2014, 09:17 AM   #12
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Name: Lyle
Trailer: Bigfoot
British Columbia
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Andersen Hitch Install

Thanks so much for this, Jay. Your pictures show that the brackets barely go between the propane platform and that little stud welded to the frame at the emergency brake assembly. I hope mine is where yours is. I can relocate grounds that are attached as you suggest.
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