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Old 07-26-2013, 04:31 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by David78073 View Post
Lol thanks.

Too bad you aren't related... I work at the Toyota plant in San Antonio, and can get discounts on Toyota vehicles... like an FJ.
I'm always interested in accessories......Bro
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Old 07-27-2013, 01:12 PM   #22
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it seems completely counter intuitive to stop a ball from being able to move
Yes, but the Andersen design only rotates the ball in synch with the trailer - the coupler still rotates on the ball in roll and pitch motions (grinding away at the back of the ball and coupler with each movement).

I think the lack of rotation between the ball and the coupler is just a side effect of Andersen's innovative method of arranging sway-damping friction between the hitch head and the part they could arrange to rotate with the trailer. The most straightforward way they found to transfer the vertical load on the ball into the cone of their cone-in-cup arrangement was to just attach the ball the top of the cone... in fact, the ball and cone are the same part.
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:08 PM   #23
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And seriously, let's not compare an egg to an Airstream... even the smallest ones out weigh most eggs by 1,000 pounds...
Hummmm... I compare eggs to Airstreams all the time. Some vintage models are very light......

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Old 07-27-2013, 02:38 PM   #24
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Hummmm... I compare eggs to Airstreams all the time. Some vintage models are very light......

So? They haven't been that way for 30 years... and have you ever heard of a publicity stunt? Was that one just a shell or was is loaded... doesn't say does it.

A shell of a camper doesn't weigh a whole lot, it's all the stuff that goes into the making of a full fledge camper that adds weight to a camper.

Look believe what you want, that's what advertising is for, but the point is no amount of anything will correct a too small vehicle hauling a camper that is just too big for it... it will hide the symptoms, but it will not make the real issue go away.

And you are putting you, your family and other peoples families in danger every single time you drive down the road.
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:49 PM   #25
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The old photos of 60's sedans with rear wheels removed and the car supported above ground by a WDH hitch head and spring bars attached to the trailer tongue
Yes, those conventional WDH's are very capable. The Andersen however is not in the same league as far as WD is concerned. The design is just not capable of transferring much weight off the rear TV axle.
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:26 PM   #26
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.......
And you are putting you, your family and other peoples families in danger every single time you drive down the road.
That's right! And especially in Colorado.
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:36 PM   #27
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Yes, those conventional WDH's are very capable. The Andersen however is not in the same league as far as WD is concerned. The design is just not capable of transferring much weight off the rear TV axle.
How much do you think it can transfer? How much can a conventional WD system transfer? As far as I know, none of the manufacturers provide this specification, so while we can make educated guesses, I don't know where to get an authoritative comparison.
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:48 PM   #28
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How much do you think it can transfer? How much can a conventional WD system transfer? As far as I know, none of the manufacturers provide this specification, so while we can make educated guesses, I don't know where to get an authoritative comparison.
A conventional system can practically transfer all of the weight - hence the picture of the Toronado with the rear wheels removed. No manufacturer will provide this, because that's not it's intended use.

The bars (and hitch) are sized to the weigh they can handle, my 22' HiLo has a 750# system, my 29' HiLo has a 1400# system... no two are the same and one size does not fit all.

***the 1400# system will make the vans rear tires just barely touch the ground as the tounge weight of the 29' is only 700#, but it was all the dealer I bought the rv from had in stock... and it was included, so who am I to argue.
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:05 PM   #29
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Yes, those conventional WDH's are very capable. The Andersen however is not in the same league as far as WD is concerned. The design is just not capable of transferring much weight off the rear TV axle.
Curious as to where you get this information from, and what the exact capabilities of either system are.

I know when I first set my Andersen WDH hitch up according to instructions, my rear fender well was a bit higher that without a load, so I backed it off so it was just a bit lower than unloaded. In the end, I think my front was up near a 1/4", and my rear down by 1/4" from unloaded conditions. In fact, I actually backed off just a bit more, though did not take further measurements, going strictly by the way the trailer towed.
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:09 PM   #30
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The elastomers and chains of the Anderson most certainly DO resist rotation of the coupler about the ball but in which plane? Vertical, horizontal. Both? If horizontal rotation is what's being restricted, I'd say the darn thing is a sway control and nothing more.

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Old 07-27-2013, 05:16 PM   #31
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***the 1400# system will make the vans rear tires just barely touch the ground as the tounge weight of the 29' is only 700#, but it was all the dealer I bought the rv from had in stock... and it was included, so who am I to argue.
Shame on the dealer. Hopefully you have corrected the mismatch so you don't carry on with a somewhat sketchy/unsafe connection system.
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:35 PM   #32
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The elastomers and chains of the Anderson most certainly DO resist rotation of the coupler about the ball but in which plane? Vertical, horizontal. Both? If horizontal rotation is what's being restricted, I'd say the darn thing is a sway control and nothing more.

Jack
I think that like you Jack, lots of people seem to have trouble seeing how it works. Could be my engineering background, but I immediately understood the concept. I am not sure what planes you are referring to? Basically, the ball mount, which is solidly affixed to the tow vehicle, is twisted with the top towards the front end, which is the same resultant as the original style WDH, and forces then push down on the front of the vehicle. By the resultant effect of the hitch being raised, it not only puts weight onto the front of the tow, but onto the trailer axles(s) too.

Pretend the hitch was solidly hooked to your back end, and the chains tightened, pulling on the bottom, with equal reaction pushing forward on the top. The resultant with you not having any front legs, is you would tip forward.
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:38 PM   #33
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Curious as to where you get this information from, and what the exact capabilities of either system are.

I know when I first set my Andersen WDH hitch up according to instructions, my rear fender well was a bit higher that without a load, so I backed it off so it was just a bit lower than unloaded. In the end, I think my front was up near a 1/4", and my rear down by 1/4" from unloaded conditions. In fact, I actually backed off just a bit more, though did not take further measurements, going strictly by the way the trailer towed.
There are many sources that talk about the WD limitations of the Andersen. Post #684 here sums it up the best. Also review the many weigh scale slips posted by Andersen users and you will see it is very limited by it's design.

The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread - Page 49 - Airstream Forums
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:51 PM   #34
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There are many sources that talk about the WD limitations of the Andersen. Post #684 here sums it up the best. Also review the many weigh scale slips posted by Andersen users and you will see it is very limited by it's design.

The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread - Page 49 - Airstream Forums
That really is hardly applicable to the needs of this forum, which is for moulded fiberglass trailers, as that refers to a MUCH heavier trailer, with a much heavier tongue weight. You can discount my findings if you wish, but I was quite meticulous in my measuring.

I do hope to go back and try some settings and not only get measurements, but also get some axle weights before and after too. I just have to find the time (and a weigh scale too).

I just went and found the results of my measurements, and the setting I use has the front wheelwell up 1/4", and the rear down 3/8" (I had said 1/4" without checking). I never checked at the wheelwells without using a WDH, but I know the hitch ball went down close to 1 1/2".
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:06 PM   #35
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Shame on the dealer. Hopefully you have corrected the mismatch so you don't carry on with a somewhat sketchy/unsafe connection system.
Um, I cranked up the bars to the last link in the chain to see if it would "duplicate" the Toronado. I probably would have been able to take the rear wheels off, but didn't try. The oversized bars are not an issue when used like you are supposed to use them, just "beefier" then what's needed and not unsafe.

It doesn't even come close to that condition when used "normally", so relax, I'm not one of the ones running around with 30' trailer being towed with a Civic because I can buy a hitch for it, and crank up the bars on my WDH to correct my towing problems.

Sorry to disappoint you.
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:08 PM   #36
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I prefer that you employ your anatomy in your explanations, Jim. Not that I don't see the humor but it's a lot funnier when you tip over.

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Old 07-27-2013, 06:39 PM   #37
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That really is hardly applicable to the needs of this forum, which is for moulded fiberglass trailers, as that refers to a MUCH heavier trailer, with a much heavier tongue weight. You can discount my findings if you wish, but I was quite meticulous in my measuring.
If you have the required WD then that is great.

My posts are directed to the fact that the Andersen is barely capable of achieving the amounts required and in many cases as I pointed out with the link above was incapable of doing what it was supposed to do.

In contrast the typical WDH's that have been around for 60 years are extremely good at doing the job as demonstrated by the Olds Toronado clip that was previously posted.
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:51 PM   #38
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I think that unless you have used the Andersen, as Jim and myself have, then your opinions are based upon preconceived notions of conventional wisdom. The hitch controls sway very effectively and will redistribute some weight (not as much as conventional) but will make the entire towing experience a lot more enjoyable. I towed with mine over 6,000 miles and it worked like a charm. In addition, it is so easy to remove and reinstall, it makes the others obsolete. With fiberglass trailers, most of our t/w are below 500#, which makes the Andersen quite effective. Heavier trailers, as Airstreams will push it's limit. If you want to bend your tongue or take your wheels off, the andersen is not your rig. The chains keeps the ball tight which is where your sway control is and they help to shift some of the weight forward and back. It's simple and it works.
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:36 PM   #39
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:43 PM   #40
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Looks like it is working.
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