Anti-Sway Bar - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-14-2012, 01:25 PM   #57
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Name: Bob Ruggles
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 2012 Chevy Silverado
Michigan
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FWIW, Jim Palmer at Egg Camper specifically told me "do NOT use a WD hitch with an Egg Camper.
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Old 02-14-2012, 01:26 PM   #58
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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Ball locking issue

It's a dry sunny day, good for getting down on the ground and perfect for testing the ball's locking lever.

I hesitate to write about our solution because probably no one else will have this problem. I will say if you haven't gotten down and looked at your locking lever in action, it's a good exercise.

In our case a previous owner added a cosmetic piece to the edge of our tongue, around the ball area. He used two screws to hold this rubber piece on. It turns out that it's possible for the tips of these screws to interfer with the ball's latch preventing a real lock.

I believe the problem of a false latching is now fixed, screws gone.
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Old 02-14-2012, 01:30 PM   #59
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Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I agree with you Dave, it seems that there are 2 types of people in the world, rule followers and rule breakers. I spent most of my life dealing with rule breakers thru work. It's the same with towing. According to Frederick's weight table, of the 103 trailers weighed all but a handful of the smallest trailers exceed Subaru's factory specifications. All of the 13' Scamps do and then the list just goes up from there.

Geezzz I thought you didnt want to bring this up again!

Actually there are 19 trailers on the "real world weights list" that meet the towing specs both in total weight and tongue of a basic Outback and at least one more that could be towed with the model with the 3000lb cap, which is IMHO a pretty big "handful" considering only a 103 trailers have actually been weighed full loaded up. Hummm lets see now that's darn close to 20% of the trailers that have actually been weighed. As we all know no 2 trailers are the same weight wise and it depends on the floor plan, options, year built and how much stuff people put into them.

Yup there are two types of people regarding the rules and who is willing to risk the safety of themselves and others but IMHO you are using a pretty wide brush in in deciding who is and who isn't breaking the rules. I don't disagree with you that we have a couple of folks that are towing trailers that are well outside the specs of their tow vehicle & it causes me to raise my eye brows as well but I suspect the number isn't nearly as big in as you continue to imply with your comments and in particular in regards to the Subaru. I also suspect the percentage isn't all that far out & perhaps even far less that one would find in the general RV/tow combos out on the road regardless of them being fiberglass or a stick built.

Now can we get back to the topic of the original post ????
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Old 02-14-2012, 01:33 PM   #60
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
I believe the problem of a false latching is now fixed, screws gone.
Glad to hear you found the problem, hope you continue to have a safe trip.
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Old 02-15-2012, 12:31 AM   #61
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Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
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I tow a 16' Scamp behind my lifted Jeep Wrangler. It seems to tow well as far as tracking and no sway when loaded with correct tongue weight. The back of the jeep doesn't drop at all because I have air suspension which uses height sensors at each wheel to always keep the rig level. However I noticed when going over big bumps I would notice a rattling noise as if something is loose in the coupling between the trailor and tv.
I checked the coupling and found the adjustment nut under the clamp fork was pretty loose. I tightened it until there was just perceptable play. I then tested the hitching/unhitching function and found the hitch would not uncouple with the latch wide open. I then loosened the nut until it would uncouple and couple with no issues or false coupling. But it rattled again! Grrrrr.... It seems to me the fork or pawl is designed wrong. It should allow the removal of slop and still release and latch without hanging up. I will dismantle it and check for wear or design issues and modify to function properly. The rattling on bumps is annoying. The hitch is stamped 2" and the ball is 2".
Russ
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:16 AM   #62
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Name: George
Trailer: Waiting for the Sprinter van and designing the converion modules.
Oregon
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Being screwed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
It's a dry sunny day, good for getting down on the ground and perfect for testing the ball's locking lever.

I hesitate to write about our solution because probably no one else will have this problem. I will say if you haven't gotten down and looked at your locking lever in action, it's a good exercise.

In our case a previous owner added a cosmetic piece to the edge of our tongue, around the ball area. He used two screws to hold this rubber piece on. It turns out that it's possible for the tips of these screws to interfer with the ball's latch preventing a real lock.

I believe the problem of a false latching is now fixed, screws gone.
Congratulation on pointing the source of your problem. Any owners modifications tend to make me nervous even thou there are often OK. A few years ago a friend of mine bought an older BMW motorcycle from his friend. Driving back home he ended up in a ditch. The previous owner, his friend, made a cruise control invention by inserting a “SCREW” in the throttle handle. Imagine a panic of my friend trying to slow down in a turn, well, they are still close friends. So, buying used modified stuff needs a special attention.

George.
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:00 AM   #63
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Name: Jesse
Trailer: 1984 Scamp 13'
Maryland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
I agree with you Dave, it seems that there are 2 types of people in the world, rule followers and rule breakers. I spent most of my life dealing with rule breakers thru work. It's the same with towing. According to Frederick's weight table, of the 103 trailers weighed all but a handful of the smallest trailers exceed Subaru's factory specifications. All of the 13' Scamps do and then the list just goes up from there.
My Scamp 13 does not exceed my Subaru's tow rating. Not sure where you came up with that.
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:15 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by mcbrew View Post
My Scamp 13 does not exceed my Subaru's tow rating. Not sure where you came up with that.
My comment was based upon Frederick's weight postings here
Trailer Weights in the Real World
If yours was not listed then that is unknown.
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:19 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruscal View Post
I tow a 16' Scamp behind my lifted Jeep Wrangler. It seems to tow well as far as tracking and no sway when loaded with correct tongue weight. The back of the jeep doesn't drop at all because I have air suspension which uses height sensors at each wheel to always keep the rig level. However I noticed when going over big bumps I would notice a rattling noise as if something is loose in the coupling between the trailor and tv.
I checked the coupling and found the adjustment nut under the clamp fork was pretty loose. I tightened it until there was just perceptable play. I then tested the hitching/unhitching function and found the hitch would not uncouple with the latch wide open. I then loosened the nut until it would uncouple and couple with no issues or false coupling. But it rattled again! Grrrrr.... It seems to me the fork or pawl is designed wrong. It should allow the removal of slop and still release and latch without hanging up. I will dismantle it and check for wear or design issues and modify to function properly. The rattling on bumps is annoying. The hitch is stamped 2" and the ball is 2".
Russ
I think that spring not only holds the coupler on the ball but also allows some flexibility due to 2 vehicles not responding the same to road conditions, i.e. your car and trailer. Perhaps the spring is worn? But if you make it so tight that there is no play, they you may have other issues at that point. ETrailer.com has a lot of useful info on couplings.
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Old 02-15-2012, 09:17 AM   #66
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Name: Jesse
Trailer: 1984 Scamp 13'
Maryland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

My comment was based upon Frederick's weight postings here
Trailer Weights in the Real World
If yours was not listed then that is unknown.
Since most people tow with a truck, they are usually not concerned with tongue weight. The (somewhat flawed) thinking is that more tongue weight is always better. However, I load my Scamp with a low tongue weight in mind. At the CAT scale, my Scamp came in right about 1,200 pounds, and the tongue weight was about 145. I have since made modifications to lower that even more (fiberglass LP tank and relocation of certain items).

That weight is not the "camping-ready" weight. It would weigh about 200 pounds more on the road. All of this is well within the dumbed down US tow rating for my Outback. It is also within the class 1 rating of the coupler on my Scamp. I believe they went to a beefier class 2 coupler in later years.
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Old 02-15-2012, 09:37 AM   #67
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Name: george
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Missouri
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Well, regarding tongue weight, there are some good reasons for having a correct amount of tongue weight. If you've never towed something with inadequate tongue weight, you should try it sometime. It's real special

I towed a borrowed homemade trailer one time that we used for a homecoming float. LOL....I told the guy that owned it later that the trailer should be donated to an engineering school as an example of how to not build a trailer !

george
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Old 02-15-2012, 12:08 PM   #68
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Name: Jesse
Trailer: 1984 Scamp 13'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmw photos
Well, regarding tongue weight, there are some good reasons for having a correct amount of tongue weight. If you've never towed something with inadequate tongue weight, you should try it sometime. It's real special

I towed a borrowed homemade trailer one time that we used for a homecoming float. LOL....I told the guy that owned it later that the trailer should be donated to an engineering school as an example of how to not build a trailer !

george
Yes. There is such a thing as "correct" tongue weight. However, more is not always better -- especially when towing with a car or a car-based SUV. More tongue weight also puts more stress on the frame and coupler of the trailer. Again, my Scamp has a class 1 coupler, so it is not designed to have more than 200 pounds at the tongue. Also, many people simply drive too fast. Speed increases the chance of sway.
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Old 02-15-2012, 12:19 PM   #69
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My Scamp 13 does not exceed my Subaru's tow rating. Not sure where you came up with that.
Neither does my 16' Jessie and it is on the list......
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Old 02-15-2012, 12:23 PM   #70
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When loading for camping, we guess at the weight we have on the tongue 10 percent is what we need to aim for and a swaybar will help to correct.
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