antisway question

[TADinVanUSA]

We just purchased a 2006 Scamp 16ft and tow with a 2004 Grand Cherokee and average 12mpg over hill and dale (fyi). I get a little tail wag when being pushed on the freeway at about 62 mph and am considering a antisway for a little more control.
Question-- Has any one had or know of anyone that uses Anderson Hitches new anti sway that uses chain and has a unique ball set up (the ball rotates with the trailer) It looks and sounds like a good system weighing only 60lbs. There is a video on there web site.
We would appreciate any input.
PS yes I know the speed limit, traveling with this set up is a change from traveling in a Mini (9,000 mi this summer cross country)

[Steve Hammel]

I had a Trillium that wiggled every time I hit 50 mph. A cheap friction bar was all it needed and never had another problem. You can do a friction bar for $50.

[cpaharley2008]

I have the Andersen and really like it, it does eliminate sway, but before spending $400 I'd try to address why you have the squiggle. What is your tongue weight? If too light you will have sway, is your unit improperly set up with too much weight behind the axle vs in front? Once you determine that you have adequate tongue weight (10-15%) and you are level, then we can address if there is any sway with a hitch set up. But first try the other method.

[deryk]

and then there is wind lol.

I was on a stretch in virginia and I looked down and realized i was doing 75 and getting passed and my ParkLiner was riding nicely behind me. Coming home around baltimore it was so windy I dropped down for a stretch to 50 and tapped my break controller a bunch of times because the ParkLiner was rocking...and that's with a cheap friction anti sway bar. Its a good idea to have something as a just in case.

[Ken in Pa]

We also have a Scamp 16 that sways. All the weights and packing are correct. Bought an Andersen and love it. Once installed and adjusted right its a breeze to use. Easy on and off and no pops bangs or sqeeks. Love it.
Ken

[Hambone]

towing my Scamp with the Silverado had a draw bar that made it level, had a wiggle....went with a 2 in drop with a 1 in rise ball, no wiggle... amazed how much 1 inch made (approximately a inch)

[Perry J]

You should be able to tow your trailer at any reasonable speed without any sway.

If you use any add on to eliminate your sway you are only putting a band aid on the problem.

[deryk]

I disagree perry....I had zero problems driving to NC last weekend... coming back when I hit Baltimore area it was so windy it flattened the brim of my fedora to my head when I got out for gas. When the wind hit me from the side while driving I felt the sway.

I think for safety sake its a good investment.

[Perry J]

I failed to add the qualifier, under normal conditions.
Terry said nothing about high winds.
I have been towing something for more years than I care to remember and have never felt the need for a sway bar.
If the speed limit is 70 as some areas in Arizona and Utah that's what I travel.

[rgrugg]

I've had a multitude of trailers in a multitude of different lengths and weights and have never had any sway, with or without a wdh. I've been towing since 1962 all over the country so I have a fair amount of experience. I'd never spend the money on an anti sway device until I'd have exhausted every other possibility for eliminating sway.

[swenny]

I use a friction type anti-sway bar also towing my 16' scamp deluxe and find it very useful in cross wind conditions. Simply stop and get out to adjust the tension when traveling in heavy winds and when the winds are over I will usually get out again and release the tension....... not so much stress when turning corners. I personally would not travel without one. Even minor hardly noticeable oscillations bother me and the sway bar will put a stop to that. $50 buys cheap security.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Perry J

You should be able to tow your trailer at any reasonable speed without any sway.

If you use any add on to eliminate your sway you are only putting a band aid on the problem.

KEY WORDS Reasonable Speed = Between 50 and 60 mph.

[Ice-breaker]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

KEY WORDS Reasonable Speed = Between 50 and 60 mph.

"Reasonable speed" is a pretty subjective term, and I would bet that if you ask ten members on this forum what that means, you will get a multitude of answers. My definition of "reasonable speed" would include some kind of statement saying that it would depend on a variety of factors including road conditions, speed limit of road you are traveling on, condition of tow vehicle and trailer, etc. Under good driving conditions, a reasonable speed for me is something close to (slightly under to slightly over) the speed limit of the road I am traveling on. In poor driving conditions, I will adjust my "reasonable speed" accordingly.

With my trailer and tow vehicle combination, and the manner in which I load my trailer, I have never experienced any sway whatsoever, and have never required the use of a sway control device.

[Darrell in Al]

Back on the Anderson Hitch
I have one I use towing 16 ft Scamp Deluxe my TVs a 05 Wangler Unlimited. I started to install a friction swaybars and the Anderson was recommended at a RV shop by a Tec that worked there and has/ using one. I have no regrets about it, I can adjust the loading up or down with a socket wrench. It costs more than friction bars, but it added more solid connection and safety (IMHO) I have been known to be in to overkill some things... 5 fire extinguishers, first aid kits ect. ect.

[Bruce H]

Lengthen out the trailer tongue five feet and it will stop swaying.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Hambone

towing my Scamp with the Silverado had a draw bar that made it level, had a wiggle....went with a 2 in drop with a 1 in rise ball, no wiggle... amazed how much 1 inch made (approximately a inch)

You have hit the truth squarely. A 16 needs to be at or slightly below level and have adequate tongue weight. Done right, it tows nearly as well as a Scamp 13 which is the best towing trailer ever.
A friction sway device is no more a bandaid than a panhard bar is on a racecar. It improves the best set-up and it is cheap.
While I have never had a Scamp which required a friction bar I use one and love it for comfort and handling.
I have though, had a couple of SOBs which required a friction sway to bring them above marginal safety standards.

[ruscal]

People often overlook adding more air to tug tires when towing. The added trailer tongue weight and added side forces will be better handled by running the tires at higher pressures.
Also I found some improvement in my Jeep Wranglers ability to resist sway by shortening the drawbar which moved the ball about 3" closer to the rear bumper and shortened the moment arm. It better handled sway and helped with vertical loads. I originally had the long drawbar to clear the rear mounted spare tire. Now I moved the spare upward about 4" allowing the hitch to go under the tire. I switched my poor performing coupler to a Bulldog clam shell type which provides a lower profile and better clearance to the spare.
Trailer balance and level attitude are the biggies, but don't overlook the small stuff.
I can tow my trailer without a friction sway device and have no scary self perpetuating sway events, but the rig feels better with one connected. It quiets mini wags, and isn't expensive to purchase or difficult to hook up. The one thing I don't care for is the hitch pins they use to keep the thing hooked to the balls. They deform with use and can fall off. I envision the front one falling off and the device hitting the road and causing havoc. I have been using tie wraps to safety wire them in place. There's gotta be a better way...
Russ

[arlon]

Might also consider adding air bags to stiffen the rear suspension. They did wonders for towing with my truck and van. I also run E rated tires on both of them. My Astro van rides a little rough with the E tires but they don't allow much side to side movement either.

[honda03842]

We are among the lightest towers on the site, our tongue weight is between 7 to 8% of trailer weight.

As Russ suggests, we run our tow vehicle with higher than normal rear tire pressures boosting from a normal 26 to 39 lbs at the rear and to 34#s at the front. As well we have shortened our draw bar, bringing the ball closer to the rear axle, easy to do by drilling another locating hole in the draw bar.

We towed a few thousand miles without a sway bar with no issues. However we've added an anti-sway bar as inexpensive insurance.

The anti-sway bar is very easy to install and easy to use. Unlike some we never find we have to loosen it when backing up. (Definitely it should not be over tightened.)

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by ruscal

The one thing I don't care for is the hitch pins they use to keep the thing hooked to the balls. They deform with use and can fall off. I envision the front one falling off and the device hitting the road and causing havoc.
Russ

Russ I am assuming the pins you are bending are on your anti sway device and not your hitch bar? as I have never had a hitch pin bend.... wonder if perhaps you need to find stronger or larger pins...