Any idea what could be causing my tow problem - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-30-2016, 10:33 PM   #15
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Name: Glenn ( second 'n' is silent )
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B '08 RAV4 SPORT V6
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If the manual for the vehicle tells you to turn off anti-sway when towing, you might have a problem claiming under warranty. I'd read, or re-read the manual.
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:36 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jane H. View Post
Gordon, it is under warranty. But my experience tells me Dodge will want to blame the problem on the trailer or brake controller. Just trying to gain some knowledge before I take it in. They wouldn't look at it this weekend anyway. Planned to leave for my first campout and rally Monday morning so this really has been a disappointment.
My Ram (Dodge) truck shows operation hours, idle hours and towing hours on the truck's EVIC. When I connect my trailer to my vehicle , the vehicle's computer senses and records it .
I can't advise you on what Dodge may or may not do but they will be aware that you used the vehicle for towing.
One nice computer feature is that if you are towing and you lose your trailer brakes you get a warning light on the dash.
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Old 05-01-2016, 07:00 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
...
I can't advise you on what Dodge may or may not do but they will be aware that you used the vehicle for towing....
SO? The vehicle is designed for towing. They market it for towing. It should be able to tow without the brakes on the entire time.

Now if there was user error when towing, that may be different, but the simple fact that the OP was towing does not affect the warranty.
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:28 AM   #18
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Name: Jane
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Well, I pulled my trailer this morning without any problems. I feel very sure it was the anti-skid causing the problem. Thanks to everyone for your input and especially David who came up with correct solution. This forum is really a godsend for someone like me. My trip is back on and tomorrow afternoon I should be a happy camper. Thanks, thanks, thanks!!!
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:54 AM   #19
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The immediate problem is solved, but now the issue is to find out why the stability control system is being activated when towing. Unless your owner's manual directs you to disable the system when towing, you should be able to tow with it on. As Gordon says, this vehicle is designed for towing.

I have had mine activate when climbing steep grades on loose surfaces (gravel/dirt), but never on dry pavement. My vehicle is FWD-only, and I do not use a WDH for my small Scamp, so wheel slippage of the front drive wheels under those conditions is the cause. Stability control typically applies brakes selectively to maintain directional control AND reduces throttle to slow the vehicle. Disabling it temporarily prevents the brakes from coming on and allows a little wheel spin to make it up the slope. I turn it back on as soon as I'm at the top.

It certainly should not activate on dry pavement in normal highway towing. I would investigate whether the WDH and brake controller are adjusted properly.
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:28 AM   #20
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Thanks, Jon. I will check it out.
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:51 AM   #21
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And I repeat my caution that you may have damaged the brakes. Specifically, since you said they were very hot, the rotor could have been warped. Does it still stop smoothly? Does it pull to one side when braking? If these things or other things seem out of wack when braking (without trailer) then I would have the brakes checked, esp the rotors.
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:58 AM   #22
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Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B '08 RAV4 SPORT V6
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I learned six months ago that my seven year old RAV4 has heated mirrors.
Read the manual.
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:28 AM   #23
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SO? The vehicle is designed for towing. They market it for towing. It should be able to tow without the brakes on the entire time.

Now if there was user error when towing, that may be different, but the simple fact that the OP was towing does not affect the warranty.
When I purchased a 2011 Ram it came with the tow package but without the factory brake controller . The factory brake controller is tied to the truck's onboard computer . The factory brake controller settings are displayed on a screen . The truck's computer also changes charge voltages and brake parameters when a trailer is hooked up to the vehicle. If you want to have an aftermarket brake controller function as the factory controller does ,you need to tie the controller to the computer buss and have the computer reprogrammed to accept the controller.at a cost of up to $500.. The factory controller cost's $230. They want you to buy the factory brake controller . The same thing applies to the factory tow mirrors . The vehicle is not designed to have them added aftermarket.
I never said or implied that you cannot or should not tow with the OP's vehicle. or that warranty coverage can or would be denied What I was saying is that if the OP removed any items she added for towing and said he/ she never towed with the vehicle
, the onboard computer would say otherwise.
If you go to the Ram website you will find people who were denied warranty coverage because they added after market tuners .
Even though they removed the tuner before taking the vehicle into a dealer , the onboard computer showed that the vehicle was modified.
In my 2011 Ram they used copper spark plugs which were scheduled to be changed every 32 K miles. Many people tried to avoid changing the plugs at that interval and installed iridium sparkplugs . The vehicles computer sensed that the plugs were the wrong type and put the engine into limp mode.
Auto manufacturers are " CTA " and do not want to pay for warranty work caused by the vehicle owners modifications.
How we think things should work and how they actually work are often quite different !!!.
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:29 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I learned six months ago that my seven year old RAV4 has heated mirrors.
Read the manual.
WOW Glenn, and I thought I was a slow reader.
Dave & Paula
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:09 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
...
I never said or implied that you cannot or should not tow with the OP's vehicle. or that warranty coverage can or would be denied What I was saying is that if the OP removed any items she added for towing and said he/ she never towed with the vehicle...
OK now I get your point. I won't quote your entire message, but yes, you are 100% on target.

In the case of my Toyota, it is marketed as being able to tow 3500 lb trailer. Yet when I contacted them abut a brake controller, they said they don't endorse any after market ones and any modifications might void the warranty. OK then, where do I get the OEM brake controller? Well, there is none. Nor is there any pre-wiring for it or trailer brakes. So I was forced into a decision to perhaps void the warranty on my new van, or add the after-market brake controller and trailer lights converter. &$^@! Toyota!

I have 19 months left on the warranty and so far not a single problem, so I keep my fingers crossed. Next time, if I buy another tug new, it will be a different vehicle for towing - one where the towing equipment is also covered by warranty!
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Old 05-02-2016, 01:45 PM   #26
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My after market hitch receiver, and wiring for lights and brake controller ( I provided ) were done at the Toyota ( Canada ) dealership by a hitch installer that they brought in. It was a condition of sale that I have a Class III hitch receiver.
I think they'd have a hard time arguing warranty with me.
Also, the hitch and wiring install cost $650. The OEM Class II hitch would have cost $950 on it's own.
Last service I asked them to check the hitch receiver and they reported it was in good condition.
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:53 AM   #27
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Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
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Having one of these new vehicles with an ECU that records operating parameters and tattles back to the dealer is like big brother second guessing your every move. Your best defense is to research the vehicles advertised capability before you plunk down your money. You need to know what is considered allowable operation. Vehicles that drive for you have sensors that can be thrown off by weight distribution hitches etc. The owner's manual probably tells you to turn it off under those conditions. Most of us tow really small trailers that are for the most part non challenging to most mid sized vehicles. Getting up to a 21' loaded FG trailer starts to require a well built full sized truck to tow with safety and ease. The manufacturers should back those that are used for towing with a warranty because that is what they are built for.
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