Anyone keep their scamp hooked to the truck while camping? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-30-2013, 08:18 AM   #15
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Solenoid Battery Isolator

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Originally Posted by Mcmarkrazz View Post
Can you expand with pics or explanations..love the idea but have no ideawhat and how it works lol
For trailer use it really very simple. Heres is a typical solenoid type isolator:

Tow Ready Battery Isolation Solenoid Tow Ready Accessories and Parts TR118665


You cut the charge line from the battery or fuse going to the trailer and connect the two wire ends to the two large connectors. You then connect the smaller terminal to something that is energized only when the ignition key is on. I use the power line to the windshield wiper motor. If you get an isloator with two small terminals, the extra one is connected to a ground point.

When you turn the key ON the solenoid will click ON and close the circuit to the charging line.

Remember: DO NOT use a starter solenoid for this, they are not designed for long term ON cycles and can fail. RV isolators are designed for long ON times.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:27 AM   #16
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:58 AM   #17
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I wired mine exactly as Kevin's diagram above shows. The toggle switch allows me to shut it off if I don't want it for some reason.
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:20 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
NOTE: This is for a solenoid type isolator, not a solid state isolator.
I have solid state isolators installed in my tow vehicle. I had Camping World do the Charge line installation for me at the same time they installed the brake controller.
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:43 AM   #19
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The factory tow package on Dakota has the charge line going from the fuse block, through a 30 amp fuse, directly to the 7 pin connector. No solenoid, no isolator.
Guess they didn't figure they were needed.
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:26 PM   #20
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Not Needed

Yep, not needed as long as you remember to unplug and replug the trailer connector every time I guess..... As long as the charging line is hot when the key is OFF you might want to consider an isolator.....

BTW: GM products do the same thing, but that still doesnt make it good idea.
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:36 PM   #21
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Solid State Isolators

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Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
I have solid state isolators installed in my tow vehicle. I had Camping World do the Charge line installation for me at the same time they installed the brake controller.
I can't make out the solid state isolator in your pics.....
But, most solid state isolators drop about .5 volts across the junction, just about enough to start reducing current flow to your coaches battery when it is about 75% charged. (Remember, charging voltage has to be above battery voltge or there is no current flow, and .5 volts can be a lot)

Solid State Isolators
1. Drop more voltage than a solenoid type isolator
2. Are much more difficult to troubleshoot when problems arise
3. Are a lot more expensive
4. Don't "Click" to let you know that they are working.
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:41 PM   #22
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Like others, for quick stopovers I try to find a level spot, don't bother to set stabilizers, and hop into the trailer to sleep. I don't need to disconnect the electrical, as my Pilot shuts off the power when the vehicle is not running, and if using my F250 on rare occasion, its dual batteries will be just fine.

If I arrive before supper anywhere, I always disconnect. It only takes a few minutes on either side to hook back up again, so nice to level out and drop the stabilizers.
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:47 AM   #23
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So if I stay connected do I get the strength of both batteries (TV and camper)? I always carry jumper cables (meet some nice people that way). Also, can I run my subee as an expensive generator to keep both batteries charged?
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:58 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by troutboomer View Post
So if I stay connected do I get the strength of both batteries (TV and camper)? I always carry jumper cables (meet some nice people that way). Also, can I run my subee as an expensive generator to keep both batteries charged?
It depends.

Some rigs are wired so the tow and trailer batteries are connected whenever the umbilical cord is plugged together. Other are wired so that they are automatically disconnected when the engine is not running.

If you use an adequate gauge wire for the charging wire (at least 10 gauge) your tow vehicle will charge both batteries as you drive. In any case, you do not want to discharge either battery more thatn 50%, as indicated by a plug in voltmeter reading of 12 volts.

INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:27 PM   #25
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You may need hours of engine idling to recharge the trailer battery (just as you may need hours of generator running for the same), but yes it does work.
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Old 10-03-2013, 09:08 PM   #26
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We have a 5er and when we stop for only one night I always leave it hooked to theTV. I unplug from the truck and place one of my wife's big hair clip on the gear shift to remind me to reconnect the trailer cable before driving off.
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Old 10-08-2013, 07:31 AM   #27
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We overnight often without disconnecting.

To stay hooked up without worry you should wire the TV-trailer charge line with a 'continuous duty solenoid'. Some TVs come set up this way, some just need an added fuse. If you need the solenoid it is $15 to $30.


When you turn on the ignition the solenoid closes. When you turn off the ignition the solenoid opens. All automatic, nothing to remember.
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:26 AM   #28
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It's also called a battery isolator solenoid and is available at all RV supply sources.

NOTE: DO NOT use an identical appearing starter solenoid. Those are rated for high current/short duration use and are prone to failing from overheating in an RV application.
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