Anyone keep their scamp hooked to the truck while camping?

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson

I have solid state isolators installed in my tow vehicle. I had Camping World do the Charge line installation for me at the same time they installed the brake controller.

I can't make out the solid state isolator in your pics.....
But, most solid state isolators drop about .5 volts across the junction, just about enough to start reducing current flow to your coaches battery when it is about 75% charged. (Remember, charging voltage has to be above battery voltge or there is no current flow, and .5 volts can be a lot)

Solid State Isolators
1. Drop more voltage than a solenoid type isolator
2. Are much more difficult to troubleshoot when problems arise
3. Are a lot more expensive
4. Don't "Click" to let you know that they are working.

[Jim Bennett]

Like others, for quick stopovers I try to find a level spot, don't bother to set stabilizers, and hop into the trailer to sleep. I don't need to disconnect the electrical, as my Pilot shuts off the power when the vehicle is not running, and if using my F250 on rare occasion, its dual batteries will be just fine.

If I arrive before supper anywhere, I always disconnect. It only takes a few minutes on either side to hook back up again, so nice to level out and drop the stabilizers.

[troutboomer]

So if I stay connected do I get the strength of both batteries (TV and camper)? I always carry jumper cables (meet some nice people that way). Also, can I run my subee as an expensive generator to keep both batteries charged?

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by troutboomer

So if I stay connected do I get the strength of both batteries (TV and camper)? I always carry jumper cables (meet some nice people that way). Also, can I run my subee as an expensive generator to keep both batteries charged?

It depends.

Some rigs are wired so the tow and trailer batteries are connected whenever the umbilical cord is plugged together. Other are wired so that they are automatically disconnected when the engine is not running.

If you use an adequate gauge wire for the charging wire (at least 10 gauge) your tow vehicle will charge both batteries as you drive. In any case, you do not want to discharge either battery more thatn 50%, as indicated by a plug in voltmeter reading of 12 volts.

INNOVA 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor : Amazon.com : Automotive

[Mike Magee]

You may need hours of engine idling to recharge the trailer battery (just as you may need hours of generator running for the same), but yes it does work.

[Herman M Parker]

We have a 5er and when we stop for only one night I always leave it hooked to theTV. I unplug from the truck and place one of my wife's big hair clip on the gear shift to remind me to reconnect the trailer cable before driving off.

[beemerphile1]

We overnight often without disconnecting.

To stay hooked up without worry you should wire the TV-trailer charge line with a 'continuous duty solenoid'. Some TVs come set up this way, some just need an added fuse. If you need the solenoid it is $15 to $30.


When you turn on the ignition the solenoid closes. When you turn off the ignition the solenoid opens. All automatic, nothing to remember.

[Bob Miller]

It's also called a battery isolator solenoid and is available at all RV supply sources.

NOTE: DO NOT use an identical appearing starter solenoid. Those are rated for high current/short duration use and are prone to failing from overheating in an RV application.

[Donna D.]

"If in doubt, pull it out."

Seems like a simple solution to me. You can stay hooked up (if backing up and hitting the ball is a problem), but you would be completely disconnected from the tow battery. KISS.

[Raz]

While inside my trailer I noticed a tapping sound similar to a dripping faucet. I finally tracked it down. It turns out that to detect connection, my Tekonsha Prodigy pulses the brake wire periodically. The sound I hear is the brake magnets energizing for a very short time. I doubt over the short term it would drain a battery but like all parasitic loads sooner or later... The only way to stop the pulsing is to unplug the umbilical or the controller. Raz

[Bob Miller]

Or you could put a switch inline with the batery lead to the controller. As I am sure you always test your trailer brakes when starting out you wouldn't forget to turn it back on each time.

Just a thought to reduce the noise as well as drain on the TV's battery.

[Raz]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

Or you could put a switch inline with the batery lead to the controller. As I am sure you always test your trailer brakes when starting out you wouldn't forget to turn it back on each time.

Just a thought to reduce the noise as well as drain on the TV's battery.

Originally Posted by Donna D.

"If in doubt, pull it out."

Seems like a simple solution to me. You can stay hooked up (if backing up and hitting the ball is a problem), but you would be completely disconnected from the tow battery. KISS.

Bob, you're quite correct, a switch would work. So would an extra pole on a charge line relay. But these add additional failure points. I prefer Donna's solution. Raz

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by P. Raz

While inside my trailer I noticed a tapping sound similar to a dripping faucet. I finally tracked it down. It turns out that to detect connection, my Tekonsha Prodigy pulses the brake wire periodically.

THANKs Raz you have just solved a little mystery for me. I did a quick one night stop over and didnt disconnect from the trailer this summer and heard the same thing - checked the kitchen and bathroom for water drips - nothing.... but in hindsight now I realize I didnt hear that sound again once I remembered to disconnect the cable from the car.

[Jim Bennett]

I keep hearing a snorting and wheezing sound in my trailer at night. My wife tells me she does not snore, so I am at a loss as to what it could be.

The dog maybe?
Nah, he already takes the blame for the farts I was not responsible for.