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08-29-2013, 07:19 PM
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#1
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Member
Name: Mark
Trailer: 13ft Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 86
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Anyone keep their scamp hooked to the truck while camping?
We just arrived and it seemed like the capmer was more stable and level while hooked to the teuck so I left it that way..Is this the norm or weird? Guess the ipad doesnt have a flash lol.
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08-29-2013, 07:37 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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When on the road with the 5er I do that a lot. Just unplug the trailer connector from your tow vehicle.
Eddie
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08-29-2013, 07:37 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcmarkrazz
We just arrived and it seemed like the capmer was more stable and level while hooked to the truck so I left it that way..Is this the norm or weird? Guess the ipad doesnt have a flash lol.
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Whenever we "overnight" in transit, we use the trailer, hooked to the TV without any other support. It works fine.
It is not, however, as stable as when set-up with stabilizers and the tongue jack.
I can see how the TV attachment could add a little stability even with the trailer set-up and level, but that will often prove impractical.
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08-29-2013, 07:38 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Some doz and dozn't. I do at times. If I'm just sleeping like in a rest area I leave the truck and trailer connected. In a campground I usually disconnect the trailer. It's easier to access the stuff in the back of the truck with the tongue out of the way.
Others find it too difficult to get hooked back up. It's up to you. However once you get rear stabilizers you'll probably want to unhook.
Once you get rear stabilizers the set up is really pretty easy.
First make sure you're level side to side, in my case I use a BAL Wheel Leveler, you can use wood blocks, or plastic "legos" to get the trailer level side to side.
Then I disconnect from the tow,
Lower the tongue jack until the trailer is a bit nose low, about 1/2 a bubble.
The deploy the stabilizers on the rear making sure each stabilizer's foot is in contact with ground, or pad surface. Back to the front and raise the tongue with the tongue jack until the trailer is level.
A level trailer becomes important when you're using the refrigerator, most RV fridges want to be level. Once level I light the fridge and pull out a chair, relax an look around at what ever there is to see from the comforts of my camping chair.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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08-29-2013, 07:47 PM
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#5
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Member
Name: Mark
Trailer: 13ft Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 86
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Thanx all..i did bring a jack for the back on one side and a plastic milk crate for the other ..also have the front jack down so super stable at present..will take a few pics in morning..happy holidays all
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08-29-2013, 08:36 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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I camp connected a lot and, as a result, I installed a solenoid type battery isolator in the charging line so that I don't have to unplug the 7 pin connector when stopped.
Total cost is less than $30 and it takes less than 30 minutes to install. This has several benefits:
1. You can't run down the TV's battery.
2. You won't fergit to reconnect and drive off with no stop and turn lights
3. You won't drive off with the 7 pin plug dragging on the ground for about 16 miles, at which time it will be ground off to a bare wire.
NOTE: This is for a solenoid type isolator, not a solid state isolator. A nd a starter solenoid isn't the same thing either, they will burn out when used as a battery isolator.
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08-29-2013, 08:46 PM
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#7
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Member
Name: Mark
Trailer: 13ft Scamp
Wisconsin
Posts: 86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
I camp connected a lot and, as a result, I installed a solenoid type battery isolator in the charging line so that I don't have to unplug the 7 pin connector when stopped.
Total cost is less than $30 and it takes less than 30 minutes to install. This has several benefits:
1. You can't run down the TV's battery.
2. You won't fergit to reconnect and drive off with no stop and turn lights
3. You won't drive off with the 7 pin plug dragging on the ground for about 16 miles, at which time it will be ground off to a bare wire.
NOTE: This is for a solenoid type isolator, not a solid state isolator. A nd a starter solenoid isn't the same thing either, they will burn out when used as a battery isolator.
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Can you expand with pics or explanations..love the idea but have no ideawhat and how it works lol
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08-29-2013, 09:50 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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Depending on tow vehicle, some have them installed from the factory, mine does.
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08-29-2013, 11:10 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
I camp connected a lot and, as a result, I installed a solenoid type battery isolator in the charging line so that I don't have to unplug the 7 pin connector when stopped.
Total cost is less than $30 and it takes less than 30 minutes to install. This has several benefits:
1. You can't run down the TV's battery.
2. You won't fergit to reconnect and drive off with no stop and turn lights
3. You won't drive off with the 7 pin plug dragging on the ground for about 16 miles, at which time it will be ground off to a bare wire.
NOTE: This is for a solenoid type isolator, not a solid state isolator. A nd a starter solenoid isn't the same thing either, they will burn out when used as a battery isolator.
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I use a 30A switch with an LED, as an isolator. Works fine and can be turned on or off even while moving.
The only drawback is that it is like an old fashioned headlight switch or ignition ...you have remember to operate it manually!
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08-30-2013, 04:22 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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Last weekend I think I this was the problem. I was hooked up most of the weekend and didnt unhook the the 7pin connector and when I went to start my Rav4 I need a jump...been fine since. The battery is 5yo but they usually go for 6 before dying.
I often times stay connected if I dont have to drive anywhere and not told I have to disconect...mostly out of lazyness lol. I still have yet to use the rear stabilizers. When I do disconect, I have 2 jackstands I put out under the frame near the tongue so the tongue jack isnt supporting all the weight. Seems stable to me. I am guessing that since the large dinette is down full time and I am sleeping really close to the axle Im not putting enough weigh farther back to lift the tongue. Had that happen once with my lil home built gypsy vardo though lol
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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08-30-2013, 06:07 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
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My 19' scamp will get light in the back with 40 gallons freshwater and a person or two in the back. I just use regular jackstands for now. I'm going to put a bal dual rear stabilizer setup on it, but I'm waiting until I get the doubled up frame rail under the back.
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08-30-2013, 06:25 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
Posts: 7,517
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We stay connected to the trailer on occasion. Though our tow vehicle charge wire, like Floyd's, has a switch in series, we always disconnect the 7 pin connector. As well we put the trailer jack down.
In my opinion even though you're still hooked up you should check your trailer connections before hitting the road again. We go through our traditional series of checks whether we stay connected to the tow vehicle or not.
__________________
Norm and Ginny
2014 Honda Odyssey
1991 Scamp 16
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08-30-2013, 06:30 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft Plan B
Posts: 2,388
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Unless I'm planning to use the tow vehicle to get somewhere else while stopped, or need to unhook to level the trailer, I rarely unhook for one night stops. I do have a disconnect relay between the vehicle & trailer...
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08-30-2013, 07:14 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: deryk
Trailer: 2012 Parkliner 2010 V6 Nissan Frontier 4x4
New Jersey
Posts: 2,085
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I use the BAL leveler even when connected if its not close to level. I will disconnect the umbilical cord though from now on. I was running my fantastic fan nonstop so it must have been pulling from my TV battery
__________________
deryk
All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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08-30-2013, 07:18 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Solenoid Battery Isolator
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcmarkrazz
Can you expand with pics or explanations..love the idea but have no ideawhat and how it works lol
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For trailer use it really very simple. Heres is a typical solenoid type isolator:
Tow Ready Battery Isolation Solenoid Tow Ready Accessories and Parts TR118665
You cut the charge line from the battery or fuse going to the trailer and connect the two wire ends to the two large connectors. You then connect the smaller terminal to something that is energized only when the ignition key is on. I use the power line to the windshield wiper motor. If you get an isloator with two small terminals, the extra one is connected to a ground point.
When you turn the key ON the solenoid will click ON and close the circuit to the charging line.
Remember: DO NOT use a starter solenoid for this, they are not designed for long term ON cycles and can fail. RV isolators are designed for long ON times.
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08-30-2013, 08:27 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1983 13 ft Scamp
Posts: 3,082
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08-30-2013, 08:58 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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I wired mine exactly as Kevin's diagram above shows. The toggle switch allows me to shut it off if I don't want it for some reason.
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08-30-2013, 10:20 AM
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#18
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Moderator
Trailer: Fiber Stream 1978 / Honda Odyssey LX 2003
Posts: 8,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
NOTE: This is for a solenoid type isolator, not a solid state isolator.
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I have solid state isolators installed in my tow vehicle. I had Camping World do the Charge line installation for me at the same time they installed the brake controller.
__________________
Frederick - The Scaleman
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08-30-2013, 10:43 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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The factory tow package on Dakota has the charge line going from the fuse block, through a 30 amp fuse, directly to the 7 pin connector. No solenoid, no isolator.
Guess they didn't figure they were needed.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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08-30-2013, 02:26 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Not Needed
Yep, not needed as long as you remember to unplug and replug the trailer connector every time I guess..... As long as the charging line is hot when the key is OFF you might want to consider an isolator.....
BTW: GM products do the same thing, but that still doesnt make it good idea.
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