High- or Low-Profile bracket should have been one of the ordering questions, as well as Inboard/Outboard and Standard/Reverse.
Here's some old stuf from the Yahoo Scamper Files Section which I'm posting in full so it will be in the MFROG archives:
I believe Dexter has only two plants making torsion axles; Indiana may not
really know what the real world is doing -- AFAIK, Scamp
is still using the
same leading axle on the 13' that they have for decades (My 91S13 is a
leading and I replaced it in 2002; others have replaced theirs more recently).
NOTE: Scamp is now using trailing arm axles.
If you put a trailing axle on there you would either have to raise the frame
and body about 4-5 inches or change the step-up inside to be as far in front
of the spindles/wheel wells as it is behind them now. The axle beam sticks
up about that high.
If you try to order an axle by taking measurements and guessing at all the
options, likely you will wind up with the wrong axle.
One way to get the right axle is to read the tag on your current axle, get the
plant number, look on Dexter's web site for that plant's telno, call them and
ask to speak to the keeper of axle records by serial number. Give that
person your serial number from the tag and they will give you all the
Another way is to call Scamp with your VIN
and they will give you a coded spec
for the original axle (See the file "Axle Talk" in the Files section of this
group for a partial decoding of the Scamp spec). Redneck Trailer Supply
should be able to decode the Scamp spec to supply an axle. I don't know if
Scamp will sell and ship an axle.
You will have to modify the original spec to get your new axle equipped the
way you want it; # of studs on hub, capacity rubbering, lube method, brakes
(ordering a new axle e/w brakes
is the cheapest way to get brake equipment --
At one time, it was actually cheaper, before shipping, to order an axle e/w
brakes and discard the axle than it was to order the brake stuf separately),
Per the notes I took during conversation with Steve in early 2002,
your numbers mean:
I=Idler(E here would =elec brake flange)
063=63" hub to hub distance
497=49.75" bracket to bracket distance
There should also be some indication as to high/standard profile,
standard/reverse brackets and inboard/outboard brackets, according to
the info I got from Western Warehouse in Seattle -- that may be
what "00" above is for.
The above is a code set up between Scamp and the supplier rep (in
this case Redneck). The factory doesn't use that code, the rep
apparently translates for them when he/she makes the order to Dexter
or Alko or whatever.
BTW, your number and my number (for my 91S13) are the same in the
measurements and capacity, but I got the brake flange and you kept
yours as an idler. However, that does NOT mean these are good for
someone else's Egg, esp of a different model year. Anyone
contemplating an axle changeout should either research via specific
axle tag or call Scamp with VIN
Here are the Dexter sizes:
#8 is 600 - 1100 lbs
#9 is 1000 - 2200 lbs used on 13' Eggs (7" brake, EZL option)
#10 is 2300 - 3500 lbs used on 16/17/19' Eggs (10" brake/EZL/NVRL)
#11 is 4000 - 6000 lbs (12" brake, EZL/NVRL)
#12 is 5500 - 7000 lbs "
#13 is 8000 lbs "
Were I doing it again, I would be tempted to try a #10 @ 2300, with
NevRLube, bolt-on bracket and larger wheels, but that might result in
overkill on the suspension and a very ruff ride for the egg.
--- In email@example.com
, "Lloyd Bishop"
> Well Chief (CEO Beachcomber) 9's and 10's don't compute for the old
> What does compute is (9TF22440IEZ06300497) at 22.5 degrees down.
And from Redneck
> Trailer Supply nation wide. That number will get one a 2200 pound
rated axle for an old
> four lug bolt Scamp. My 1982 came with a 1200 lb rated axle which
was probably marginal
> when new. By the time I changed the axle 5-23-03 it was riding real
low. Now if you can
> come up with a number for your 9's and 10's you would be doing us
all a big favor. But now
> chief if you need to delegate that duty just let me know. My axle
price was $152.98 at the
> North Carolina Redneck Trailer Supply store and they charged me
$25.00 to ship it down
> the mountain and the welder charged $40.00 to cut the old one off
and weld the new one on.
> Bishop welding and fabricating (no relation) put a welder on each
side with a bucket of water
> in case they set the wood on fire with the cutting torches and they
had the job done in less
> than thirty minutes. They put a fork lift on each end of the Scamp.
The fork left on the front
> had a 1 and 7/8 inch ball on one of the forks. The one on the back
lifted from the bumper.
> It was too close to the fiberglass to suit me, but they knew what
they were doing. Based on my
> experience, the axle would be of little concern when shopping for a
used Scamp. But I would
> take it into consideration and change it if needed or if I wanted
it to ride higher for some reason
> such as clearing the truck bed with a gooseneck. That is a
different story and has been addressed
> by the gooseneck pros here.