axle installation issue

[Derek Johnson]

Using info from Scamp and this forum, I ordered a new axle for our 1985, 16' Scamp. The specs were

Dexter #10
3500 lb.
65.25" hub face
49.75 outside of bracket
22.5 degree down angle
10" electric brakes
EZ lube hubs
$365 w/tax from Six Robblees

We installed it today and had one issue--the brackets do not stick up from the top of the axle as far as they do on the original axle. When the bracket are flush with the frame the center of the axle hits the trailer floor and pushes it upwards an unacceptable amount. We had to use two pieces of half inch steel plate as shims to make it fit. No one mentioned having to specify a different height bracket.

Derek

[Pete Dumbleton]

High- or Low-Profile bracket should have been one of the ordering questions, as well as Inboard/Outboard and Standard/Reverse.

Here's some old stuf from the Yahoo Scamper Files Section which I'm posting in full so it will be in the MFROG archives:

I believe Dexter has only two plants making torsion axles; Indiana may not
really know what the real world is doing -- AFAIK, Scamp is still using the
same leading axle on the 13' that they have for decades (My 91S13 is a
leading and I replaced it in 2002; others have replaced theirs more recently).

NOTE: Scamp is now using trailing arm axles.

If you put a trailing axle on there you would either have to raise the frame
and body about 4-5 inches or change the step-up inside to be as far in front
of the spindles/wheel wells as it is behind them now. The axle beam sticks
up about that high.


If you try to order an axle by taking measurements and guessing at all the
options, likely you will wind up with the wrong axle.


One way to get the right axle is to read the tag on your current axle, get the
plant number, look on Dexter's web site for that plant's telno, call them and
ask to speak to the keeper of axle records by serial number. Give that
person your serial number from the tag and they will give you all the
original specs.


Another way is to call Scamp with your VIN and they will give you a coded spec
for the original axle (See the file "Axle Talk" in the Files section of this
group for a partial decoding of the Scamp spec). Redneck Trailer Supply
should be able to decode the Scamp spec to supply an axle. I don't know if
Scamp will sell and ship an axle.


You will have to modify the original spec to get your new axle equipped the
way you want it; # of studs on hub, capacity rubbering, lube method, brakes
(ordering a new axle e/w brakes is the cheapest way to get brake equipment --
At one time, it was actually cheaper, before shipping, to order an axle e/w
brakes and discard the axle than it was to order the brake stuf separately),
etc.

AND

Buddy:

Per the notes I took during conversation with Steve in early 2002,
your numbers mean:

9=#9 Axle
TF=TorFlex
22=2200 lbs
440=4lug/4"center (545=5lug/4.5"center)
I=Idler(E here would =elec brake flange)
EZ=EZLube
063=63" hub to hub distance
00=?
497=49.75" bracket to bracket distance

There should also be some indication as to high/standard profile,
standard/reverse brackets and inboard/outboard brackets, according to
the info I got from Western Warehouse in Seattle -- that may be
what "00" above is for.

The above is a code set up between Scamp and the supplier rep (in
this case Redneck). The factory doesn't use that code, the rep
apparently translates for them when he/she makes the order to Dexter
or Alko or whatever.

http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/1000_2200_lbs.pdf

BTW, your number and my number (for my 91S13) are the same in the
measurements and capacity, but I got the brake flange and you kept
yours as an idler. However, that does NOT mean these are good for
someone else's Egg, esp of a different model year. Anyone
contemplating an axle changeout should either research via specific
axle tag or call Scamp with VIN.

Here are the Dexter sizes:

#8 is 600 - 1100 lbs
#9 is 1000 - 2200 lbs used on 13' Eggs (7" brake, EZL option)
#10 is 2300 - 3500 lbs used on 16/17/19' Eggs (10" brake/EZL/NVRL)
#11 is 4000 - 6000 lbs (12" brake, EZL/NVRL)
#12 is 5500 - 7000 lbs "
#13 is 8000 lbs "

Were I doing it again, I would be tempted to try a #10 @ 2300, with
NevRLube, bolt-on bracket and larger wheels, but that might result in
overkill on the suspension and a very ruff ride for the egg.

--- In scampers@yahoogroups.com, "Lloyd Bishop"
<lloydbishop1939@m...> wrote:
> Well Chief (CEO Beachcomber) 9's and 10's don't compute for the old
Tennessee Hillbilly.
>
> What does compute is (9TF22440IEZ06300497) at 22.5 degrees down.
And from Redneck
> Trailer Supply nation wide. That number will get one a 2200 pound
rated axle for an old
> four lug bolt Scamp. My 1982 came with a 1200 lb rated axle which
was probably marginal
> when new. By the time I changed the axle 5-23-03 it was riding real
low. Now if you can
> come up with a number for your 9's and 10's you would be doing us
all a big favor. But now
> chief if you need to delegate that duty just let me know. My axle
price was $152.98 at the
> North Carolina Redneck Trailer Supply store and they charged me
$25.00 to ship it down
> the mountain and the welder charged $40.00 to cut the old one off
and weld the new one on.
> Bishop welding and fabricating (no relation) put a welder on each
side with a bucket of water
> in case they set the wood on fire with the cutting torches and they
had the job done in less
> than thirty minutes. They put a fork lift on each end of the Scamp.
The fork left on the front
> had a 1 and 7/8 inch ball on one of the forks. The one on the back
lifted from the bumper.
> It was too close to the fiberglass to suit me, but they knew what
they were doing. Based on my
> experience, the axle would be of little concern when shopping for a
used Scamp. But I would
> take it into consideration and change it if needed or if I wanted
it to ride higher for some reason
> such as clearing the truck bed with a gooseneck. That is a
different story and has been addressed
> by the gooseneck pros here.
>
> Regards,
> Buddy

[Greg A]

When I contacted the Dexter dealer here in Phoenix last week they are having me bring the trailer in for an inspection before they will quote it. They said there should be a plate with a serial # that allows them to get the exact specs to build out the matching axle. Also, they said from experience they need to see how it is attached so they can order the proper brackets and estimate the labor correctly.

Sounds like the dealer is confirming exactly what Pete put in his post. I was too confused by it all to order the axle myself, thus I'm going through the local Dexter shop to make sure everything is correct.
I have called Dexter and know the prices for the axle with brakes so I can tell if the price the shop gives me is fair including the removal and installation and will post those details once I know them.

Looks like it will be a 3-6 week process from the time I place the order with the dealer as each axle is built out for each order.

[Derek Johnson]

The serial number on my axle was an aluminum band wrapped around the axle. It was damaged and most of it was unreadable. From earlier posts on this forum, I think that the fire at Scamp wiped out any records they may have had on older trailers, so the VIN number may not be helpful. Scamp didn't ask me for it when I called about the axle. At the time I spoke with Scamp this past fall the previous parts person I had ordered from in the past had left and the new gentleman seemed, well, new--he lacked confidence and it took several days for him to get back to me with the information.

This ordering an axle thing seems to be more perilous than I had imagined.

Derek

[Pete Dumbleton]

If you go to the Dexter site and download the PDFs, you will see that there are a lot of variables in building up a particular axle. One drawback to dealing with Scamp or any other manf is that they really don't know much about the variables because someone made those decisions a long time ago and they have more or less drifted along with the few changes the axle manfs have made (like lube systems).

I think the recent fit problem with the axles under the Scamp 16/19 makes that clear.

The least expensive way to get an axle seems to be from Redneck, but mistakes are on the owner. If a shop orders an axle, the warehouse and the shop will get their bite on top of the cost, but mistakes are on them (if the owner is able to spot them in time).

In the case of a messed-up axle tag, it occurs to me that some reference to the PDFs for measurements and some photos of the old axle (to reveal bracket details) might be a way to go.

[Derek Johnson]

The specs listed in my first post, with the addition of the "high-profile" brackets, would have been correct for my vintage trailer. The fault is mine--I should not have trusted Scamp to give me the information, but should have measured and carefully examined every detail myself and compared them to the Dexter catalogue.

Another item you might add to the list is the side-mount brackets. If I have this trailer for 20 years and have to grind off those welds again, I will be pissed.

Derek

[Pete Dumbleton]

At the time, I didn't know the side brackets existed, or I would have used them. When I had my axle replaced, the shop put on the wrong one (no brake flange and standard bearing lube). I bitched enough that they replaced it with the right one, but they managed (deliberately, perhaps?) to drag a light weld bead across the frame and it subsequently cracked when I was far away.

Had I had the bracket on there, I would have just ordered a new axle, with brakes, and installed it myself (at that time, axle w/brakes was less expensive [before shipping] than the brake components were).